travels with a donkey in the cevennes-第15章
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could see Modestine walking round and round at the length of her
tether; I could hear her steadily munching at the sward; but there
was not another sound; save the indescribable quiet talk of the
runnel over the stones。 I lay lazily smoking and studying the
colour of the sky; as we call the void of space; from where it
showed a reddish grey behind the pines to where it showed a glossy
blue…black between the stars。 As if to be more like a pedlar; I
wear a silver ring。 This I could see faintly shining as I raised
or lowered the cigarette; and at each whiff the inside of my hand
was illuminated; and became for a second the highest light in the
landscape。
A faint wind; more like a moving coolness than a stream of air;
passed down the glade from time to time; so that even in my great
chamber the air was being renewed all night long。 I thought with
horror of the inn at Chasserades and the congregated nightcaps;
with horror of the nocturnal prowesses of clerks and students; of
hot theatres and pass…keys and close rooms。 I have not often
enjoyed a more serene possession of myself; nor felt more
independent of material aids。 The outer world; from which we cower
into our houses; seemed after all a gentle habitable place; and
night after night a man's bed; it seemed; was laid and waiting for
him in the fields; where God keeps an open house。 I thought I had
rediscovered one of those truths which are revealed to savages and
hid from political economists: at the least; I had discovered a
new pleasure for myself。 And yet even while I was exulting in my
solitude I became aware of a strange lack。 I wished a companion to
lie near me in the starlight; silent and not moving; but ever
within touch。 For there is a fellowship more quiet even than
solitude; and which; rightly understood; is solitude made perfect。
And to live out of doors with the woman a man loves is of all lives
the most complete and free。
As I thus lay; between content and longing; a faint noise stole
towards me through the pines。 I thought; at first; it was the
crowing of cocks or the barking of dogs at some very distant farm;
but steadily and gradually it took articulate shape in my ears;
until I became aware that a passenger was going by upon the high…
road in the valley; and singing loudly as he went。 There was more
of good…will than grace in his performance; but he trolled with
ample lungs; and the sound of his voice took hold upon the hillside
and set the air shaking in the leafy glens。 I have heard people
passing by night in sleeping cities; some of them sang; one; I
remember; played loudly on the bagpipes。 I have heard the rattle
of a cart or carriage spring up suddenly after hours of stillness;
and pass; for some minutes; within the range of my hearing as I lay
abed。 There is a romance about all who are abroad in the black
hours; and with something of a thrill we try to guess their
business。 But here the romance was double: first; this glad
passenger; lit internally with wine; who sent up his voice in music
through the night; and then I; on the other hand; buckled into my
sack; and smoking alone in the pine…woods between four and five
thousand feet towards the stars。
When I awoke again (Sunday; 29th September); many of the stars had
disappeared; only the stronger companions of the night still burned
visibly overhead; and away towards the east I saw a faint haze of
light upon the horizon; such as had been the Milky Way when I was
last awake。 Day was at hand。 I lit my lantern; and by its glow…
worm light put on my boots and gaiters; then I broke up some bread
for Modestine; filled my can at the water…tap; and lit my spirit…
lamp to boil myself some chocolate。 The blue darkness lay long in
the glade where I had so sweetly slumbered; but soon there was a
broad streak of orange melting into gold along the mountain…tops of
Vivarais。 A solemn glee possessed my mind at this gradual and
lovely coming in of day。 I heard the runnel with delight; I looked
round me for something beautiful and unexpected; but the still
black pine…trees; the hollow glade; the munching ass; remained
unchanged in figure。 Nothing had altered but the light; and that;
indeed; shed over all a spirit of life and of breathing peace; and
moved me to a strange exhilaration。
I drank my water…chocolate; which was hot if it was not rich; and
strolled here and there; and up and down about the glade。 While I
was thus delaying; a gush of steady wind; as long as a heavy sigh;
poured direct out of the quarter of the morning。 It was cold; and
set me sneezing。 The trees near at hand tossed their black plumes
in its passage; and I could see the thin distant spires of pine
along the edge of the hill rock slightly to and fro against the
golden east。 Ten minutes after; the sunlight spread at a gallop
along the hillside; scattering shadows and sparkles; and the day
had come completely。
I hastened to prepare my pack; and tackle the steep ascent that lay
before me; but I had something on my mind。 It was only a fancy;
yet a fancy will sometimes be importunate。 I had been most
hospitably received and punctually served in my green caravanserai。
The room was airy; the water excellent; and the dawn had called me
to a moment。 I say nothing of the tapestries or the inimitable
ceiling; nor yet of the view which I commanded from the windows;
but I felt I was in some one's debt for all this liberal
entertainment。 And so it pleased me; in a half…laughing way; to
leave pieces of money on the turf as I went along; until I had left
enough for my night's lodging。 I trust they did not fall to some
rich and churlish drover。
THE COUNTRY OF THE CAMISARDS
We travelled in the print of olden wars;
Yet all the land was green;
And love we found; and peace;
Where fire and war had been。
They pass and smile; the children of the sword …
No more the sword they wield;
And O; how deep the corn
Along the battlefield!
W。 P。 BANNATYNE。
THE COUNTRY OF THE CAMISARDS
ACROSS THE LOZERE
THE track that I had followed in the evening soon died out; and I
continued to follow over a bald turf ascent a row of stone pillars;
such as had conducted me across the Goulet。 It was already warm。
I tied my jacket on the pack; and walked in my knitted waistcoat。
Modestine herself was in high spirits; and broke of her own accord;
for the first time in my experience; into a jolting trot that set
the oats swashing in the pocket of my coat。 The view; back upon
the northern Gevaudan; extended with every step; scarce a tree;
scarce a house; appeared upon the fields of wild hill that ran
north; east; and west; all blue and gold in the haze and sunlight
of the morning。 A multitude of little birds kept sweeping and
twittering about my path; they perched on the stone pillars; they
pecked and strutted on the turf; and I saw them circle in volleys
in the blue air; and show; from time to time; translucent
flickering wings between the sun and me。
Almost from the first moment of my march; a faint large noise; like
a distant surf; had filled my ears。 Sometimes I was tempted to
think it the voice of a neighbouring waterfall; and sometimes a
subjective result of the utter stillness of the hill。 But as I
continued to advance; the noise increased; and became like the
hissing of an enormous tea…urn; and at the same time breaths of
cool air began to reach me from the direction of the summit。 At
length I understood。 It was blowing stiffly from the south upon
the other slope of the Lozere; and every step that I took I was
drawing nearer to the wind。
Although it had been long desired; it was quite unexpectedly at
last that my eyes rose above the summit。 A step that seemed no way
more decisive than many oth