tour through the eastern counties of england-第4章
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thousand Britons slain。 I say; unless I should enter into this
story; I have nothing more to say of Malden; and; as for that
story; it is so fully related by Mr。 Camden in his history of the
Romans in Britain at the beginning of his 〃Britannia;〃 that I need
only refer the reader to it; and go on with my journey。
Being obliged to come thus far into the uplands; as above; I made
it my road to pass through Witham; a pleasant; well…situated market
town; in which; and in its neighbourhood; there are as many
gentlemen of good fortunes and families as I believe can be met
with in so narrow a compass in any of the three counties of which I
make this circuit。
In the town of Witham dwells the Lord Pasely; oldest son of the
Earl of Abercorn of Ireland (a branch of the noble family of
Hamilton; in Scotland)。 His lordship has a small; but a neat;
well…built new house; and is finishing his gardens in such a manner
as few in that part of England will exceed them。
Nearer Chelmsford; hard by Boreham; lives the Lord Viscount
Barrington; who; though not born to the title; or estate; or name
which he now possesses; had the honour to be twice made heir to the
estates of gentlemen not at all related to him; at least; one of
them; as is very much to his honour; mentioned in his patent of
creation。 His name was Shute; his father a linendraper in London;
and served sheriff of the said city in very troublesome times。 He
changed the name of Shute for that of Barrington by an Act of
Parliament obtained for that purpose; and had the dignity of a
baron of the kingdom conferred on him by the favour of King George。
His lordship is a Dissenter; and seems to love retirement。 He was
a member of Parliament for the town of Berwick…upon…Tweed。
On the other side of Witham; at Fauburn; an ancient mansion house;
built by the Romans; lives Mr。 Bullock; whose father married the
daughter of that eminent citizen; Sir Josiah Child; of Wanstead; by
whom she had three sons; the eldest enjoys the estate; which is
considerable。
It is observable; that in this part of the country there are
several very considerable estates; purchased and now enjoyed by
citizens of London; merchants; and tradesmen; as Mr。 Western; an
iron merchant; near Kelendon; Mr。 Cresnor; a wholesale grocer; who
was; a little before he died; named for sheriff at Earl's Coln; Mr。
Olemus; a merchant at Braintree; Mr。 Westcomb; near Malden; Sir
Thomas Webster at Copthall; near Waltham; and several others。
I mention this to observe how the present increase of wealth in the
City of London spreads itself into the country; and plants families
and fortunes; who in another age will equal the families of the
ancient gentry; who perhaps were brought out。 I shall take notice
of this in a general head; and when I have run through all the
counties; collect a list of the families of citizens and tradesmen
thus established in the several counties; especially round London。
The product of all this part of the country is corn; as that of the
marshy feeding grounds mentioned above is grass; where their chief
business is breeding of calves; which I need not say are the best
and fattest; and the largest veal in England; if not in the world;
and; as an instance; I ate part of a veal or calf; fed by the late
Sir Josiah Child at Wanstead; the loin of which weighed above
thirty pounds; and the flesh exceeding white and fat。
From hence I went on to Colchester。 The story of Kill…Dane; which
is told of the town of Kelvedon; three miles from Witham; namely;
that this is the place where the massacre of the Danes was begun by
the women; and that therefore it was called Kill…Dane; I say of it;
as we generally say of improbable news; it wants confirmation。 The
true name of the town is Kelvedon; and has been so for many hundred
years。 Neither does Mr。 Camden; or any other writer I meet with
worth naming; insist on this piece of empty tradition。 The town is
commonly called Keldon。
Colchester is an ancient corporation。 The town is large; very
populous; the streets fair and beautiful; and though it may not
said to be finely built; yet there are abundance of very good and
well…built houses in it。 It still mourns in the ruins of a civil
war; during which; or rather after the heat of the war was over; it
suffered a severe siege; which; the garrison making a resolute
defence; was turned into a blockade; in which the garrison and
inhabitants also suffered the utmost extremity of hunger; and were
at last obliged to surrender at discretion; when their two chief
officers; Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle; were shot to
death under the castle wall。 The inhabitants had a tradition that
no grass would grow upon the spot where the blood of those two
gallant gentlemen was spilt; and they showed the place bare of
grass for many years; but whether for this reason I will not
affirm。 The story is now dropped; and the grass; I suppose; grows
there; as in other places。
However; the battered walls; the breaches in the turrets; and the
ruined churches; still remain; except that the church of St。 Mary
(where they had the royal fort) is rebuilt; but the steeple; which
was two…thirds battered down; because the besieged had a large
culverin upon it that did much execution; remains still in that
condition。
There is another church which bears the marks of those times;
namely; on the south side of the town; in the way to the Hythe; of
which more hereafter。
The lines of contravallation; with the forts built by the
besiegers; and which surrounded the whole town; remain very visible
in many places; but the chief of them are demolished。
The River Colne; which passes through this town; compasses it on
the north and east sides; and served in those times for a complete
defence on those sides。 They have three bridges over it; one
called North Bridge; at the north gate; by which the road leads
into Suffolk; one called East Bridge; at the foot of the High
Street; over which lies the road to Harwich; and one at the Hythe;
as above。
The river is navigable within three miles of the town for ships of
large burthen; a little lower it may receive even a royal navy; and
up to that part called the Hythe; close to the houses; it is
navigable for hoys and small barques。 This Hythe is a long street;
passing from west to east; on the south side of the town。 At the
west end of it; there is a small intermission of the buildings; but
not much; and towards the river it is very populous (it may be
called the Wapping of Colchester)。 There is one church in that
part of the town; a large quay by the river; and a good custom…
house。
The town may be said chiefly to subsist by the trade of making
bays; which is known over most of the trading parts of Europe by
the name of Colchester Bays; though indeed all the towns round
carry on the same trade … namely; Kelvedon; Witham; Coggeshall;
Braintree; Bocking; &c。; and the whole county; large as it is; may
be said to be employed; and in part maintained; by the spinning of
wool for the bay trade of Colchester and its adjacent towns。 The
account of the siege; A。D。 1648; with a diary of the most
remarkable passages; are as follows; which I had from so good a
hand as that I have no reason to question its being a true
relation。
A Diary: Or; An Account Of The Siege And Blockade Of Colchester;
A。D。 1648。
On the 4th of June; we were alarmed in the town of Colchester that
the Lord Goring; the Lord Capel; and a body of two thousand of the
loyal party; who had been in arms in Kent; having left a great body
of an army in possession of Rochester Bridge; where they resolved
to fight the Lord Fairfax and the Parliament army; had given the
said General Fairfax the slip; and having passed the Thames at
Greenwich; were come to Stratford; and were advancing this way;
upon which news; Sir Charles Lucas;