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第14章

tour through the eastern counties of england-第14章

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most agreeable places in England for families who have lived well;

but may have suffered in our late calamities of stocks and bubbles;

to retreat to; where they may live within their own compass; and

several things indeed recommend it to such:…



1。  Good houses at very easy rents。



2。  An airy; clean; and well…governed town。



3。  Very agreeable and improving company almost of every kind。



4。  A wonderful plenty of all manner of provisions; whether flesh

or fish; and very good of the kind。



5。  Those provisions very cheap; so that a family may live cheaper

here than in any town in England of its bigness within such a small

distance from London。



6。  Easy passage to London; either by land or water; the coach

going through to London in a day。





The Lord Viscount Hereford has a very fine seat and park in this

town; the house indeed is old built; but very commodious; it is

called Christ Church; having been; as it is said; a priory or

religious house in former times。  The green and park is a great

addition to the pleasantness of this town; the inhabitants being

allowed to divert themselves there with walking; bowling; etc。



The large spire steeple; which formerly stood upon that they call

the tower church; was blown down by a great storm of wind many

years ago; and in its a fall did much damage to the church。



The government of this town is by two bailiffs; as at Yarmouth。

Mr。 Camden says they are chosen out of twelve burgesses called

portmen; and two justices out of twenty…four more。  There has been

lately a very great struggle between the two parties for the choice

of these two magistrates; which had this amicable conclusion …

namely; that they chose one of either side; so that neither party

having the victory; it is to be hoped it may be a means to allay

the heats and unneighbourly feuds which such things breed in towns

so large as this is。  They send two members to Parliament; whereof

those at this time are Sir William Thompson; Recorder of London;

and Colonel Negus; Deputy Master of the Horse to the king。



There are some things very curious to be seen here; however some

superficial writers have been ignorant of them。  Dr。 Beeston; an

eminent physician; began a few years ago a physic garden adjoining

to his house in this town; and as he is particularly curious; and;

as I was told; exquisitely skilled in botanic knowledge; so he has

been not only very diligent; but successful too; in making a

collection of rare and exotic plants; such as are scarce to be

equalled in England。



One Mr。 White; a surgeon; resides also in this town。  But before I

speak of this gentleman; I must observe that I say nothing from

personal knowledge; though if I did; I have too good an opinion of

his sense to believe he would be pleased with being flattered or

complimented in print。  But I must be true to matter of fact。  This

gentleman has begun a collection or chamber of rarities; and with

good success too。  I acknowledge I had not the opportunity of

seeing them; but I was told there are some things very curious in

it; as particularly a sea…horse carefully preserved; and perfect in

all its parts; two Roman urns full of ashes of human bodies; and

supposed to be above 1;700 years old; besides a great many valuable

medals and ancient coins。  My friend who gave me this account; and

of whom I think I may say he speaks without bias; mentions this

gentleman; Mr。 White; with some warmth as a very valuable person in

his particular employ of a surgeon。  I only repeat his words。  〃Mr。

White;〃 says he; 〃to whom the whole town and country are greatly

indebted and obliged to pray for his life; is our most skilful

surgeon。〃  These; I say; are his own words; and I add nothing to

them but this; that it is happy for a town to have such a surgeon;

as it is for a surgeon to have such a character。



The country round Ipswich; as if qualified on purpose to

accommodate the town for building of ships; is an inexhaustible

store…house of timber; of which; now their trade of building ships

is abated; they send very great quantities to the king's building…

yards at Chatham; which by water is so little a way that they often

run to it from the mouth of the river at Harwich in one tide。



From Ipswich I took a turn into the country to Hadleigh;

principally to satisfy my curiosity and see the place where that

famous martyr and pattern of charity and religious zeal in Queen

Mary's time; Dr。 Rowland Taylor; was put to death。  The

inhabitants; who have a wonderful veneration for his memory; show

the very place where the stake which he was bound to was set up;

and they have put a stone upon it which nobody will remove; but it

is a more lasting monument to him that he lives in the hearts of

the people … I say more lasting than a tomb of marble would be; for

the memory of that good man will certainly never be out of the poor

people's minds as long as this island shall retain the Protestant

religion among them。  How long that may be; as things are going;

and if the detestable conspiracy of the Papists now on foot should

succeed; I will not pretend to say。



A little to the left is Sudbury; which stands upon the River Stour;

mentioned above … a river which parts the counties of Suffolk and

Essex; and which is within these few years made navigable to this

town; though the navigation does not; it seems; answer the charge;

at least not to advantage。



I know nothing for which this town is remarkable; except for being

very populous and very poor。  They have a great manufacture of says

and perpetuanas; and multitudes of poor people are employed in

working them; but the number of the poor is almost ready to eat up

the rich。  However; this town sends two members to Parliament;

though it is under no form of government particularly to itself

other than as a village; the head magistrate whereof is a

constable。



Near adjoining to it is a village called Long Melfort; and a very

long one it is; from which I suppose it had that addition to its

name; it is full of very good houses; and; as they told me; is

richer; and has more wealthy masters of the manufacture in it; than

in Sudbury itself。



Here and in the neighbourhood are some ancient families of good

note; particularly here is a fine dwelling; the ancient seat of the

Cordells; whereof Sir William Cordell was Master of the Rolls in

the time of Queen Elizabeth; but the family is now extinct; the

last heir; Sir John Cordell; being killed by a fall from his horse;

died unmarried; leaving three sisters co…heiresses to a very noble

estate; most of which; if not all; is now centred on the only

surviving sister; and with her in marriage is given to Mr。

Firebrass; eldest son of Sir Basil Firebrass; formerly a

flourishing merchant in London; but reduced by many disasters。  His

family now rises by the good fortune of his son; who proves to be a

gentleman of very agreeable parts; and well esteemed in the

country。



From this part of the country; I returned north…west by Lenham; to

visit St。 Edmund's Bury; a town of which other writers have talked

very largely; and perhaps a little too much。  It is a town famed

for its pleasant situation and wholesome air; the Montpelier of

Suffolk; and perhaps of England。  This must be attributed to the

skill of the monks of those times; who chose so beautiful a

situation for the seat of their retirement; and who built here the

greatest and; in its time; the most flourishing monastery in all

these parts of England; I mean the monastery of St。 Edmund the

Martyr。  It was; if we believe antiquity; a house of pleasure in

more ancient times; or to speak more properly; a court of some of

the Saxon or East Angle kings; and; as Mr。 Camden says; was even

then called a royal village; though it much better merits that name

now; it being the town of all this part of England; in proportion

to its bigness; most thronged with g

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