three men in a boat-第31章
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CHAPTER XIII。
MARLOW。 … BISHAM ABBEY。 … THE MEDMENHAM MONKS。 … MONTMORENCY THINKS HE
WILL MURDER AN OLD TOM CAT。 … BUT EVENTUALLY DECIDES THAT HE WILL LET IT
LIVE。 … SHAMEFUL CONDUCT OF A FOX TERRIER AT THE CIVIL SERVICE STORES。 …
OUR DEPARTURE FROM MARLOW。 … AN IMPOSING PROCESSION。 … THE STEAM LAUNCH;
USEFUL RECEIPTS FOR ANNOYING AND HINDERING IT。 … WE DECLINE TO DRINK THE
RIVER。 … A PEACEFUL DOG。 … STRANGE DISAPPEARANCE OF HARRIS AND A PIE。
MARLOW is one of the pleasantest river centres I know of。 It is a
bustling; lively little town; not very picturesque on the whole; it is
true; but there are many quaint nooks and corners to be found in it;
nevertheless … standing arches in the shattered bridge of Time; over
which our fancy travels back to the days when Marlow Manor owned Saxon
Algar for its lord; ere conquering William seized it to give to Queen
Matilda; ere it passed to the Earls of Warwick or to worldly…wise Lord
Paget; the councillor of four successive sovereigns。
There is lovely country round about it; too; if; after boating; you are
fond of a walk; while the river itself is at its best here。 Down to
Cookham; past the Quarry Woods and the meadows; is a lovely reach。 Dear
old Quarry Woods! with your narrow; climbing paths; and little winding
glades; how scented to this hour you seem with memories of sunny summer
days! How haunted are your shadowy vistas with the ghosts of laughing
faces! how from your whispering leaves there softly fall the voices of
long ago!
From Marlow up to Sonning is even fairer yet。 Grand old Bisham Abbey;
whose stone walls have rung to the shouts of the Knights Templars; and
which; at one time; was the home of Anne of Cleves and at another of
Queen Elizabeth; is passed on the right bank just half a mile above
Marlow Bridge。 Bisham Abbey is rich in melodramatic properties。 It
contains a tapestry bed…chamber; and a secret room hid high up in the
thick walls。 The ghost of the Lady Holy; who beat her little boy to
death; still walks there at night; trying to wash its ghostly hands clean
in a ghostly basin。
Warwick; the king…maker; rests there; careless now about such trivial
things as earthly kings and earthly kingdoms; and Salisbury; who did good
service at Poitiers。 Just before you come to the abbey; and right on the
river's bank; is Bisham Church; and; perhaps; if any tombs are worth
inspecting; they are the tombs and monuments in Bisham Church。 It was
while floating in his boat under the Bisham beeches that Shelley; who was
then living at Marlow (you can see his house now; in West street);
composed THE REVOLT OF ISLAM。
By Hurley Weir; a little higher up; I have often thought that I could
stay a month without having sufficient time to drink in all the beauty of
the scene。 The village of Hurley; five minutes' walk from the lock; is
as old a little spot as there is on the river; dating; as it does; to
quote the quaint phraseology of those dim days; 〃from the times of King
Sebert and King Offa。〃 Just past the weir (going up) is Danes' Field;
where the invading Danes once encamped; during their march to
Gloucestershire; and a little further still; nestling by a sweet corner
of the stream; is what is left of Medmenham Abbey。
The famous Medmenham monks; or 〃Hell Fire Club;〃 as they were commonly
called; and of whom the notorious Wilkes was a member; were a fraternity
whose motto was 〃Do as you please;〃 and that invitation still stands over
the ruined doorway of the abbey。 Many years before this bogus abbey;
with its congregation of irreverent jesters; was founded; there stood
upon this same spot a monastery of a sterner kind; whose monks were of a
somewhat different type to the revellers that were to follow them; five
hundred years afterwards。
The Cistercian monks; whose abbey stood there in the thirteenth century;
wore no clothes but rough tunics and cowls; and ate no flesh; nor fish;
nor eggs。 They lay upon straw; and they rose at midnight to mass。 They
spent the day in labour; reading; and prayer; and over all their lives
there fell a silence as of death; for no one spoke。
A grim fraternity; passing grim lives in that sweet spot; that God had
made so bright! Strange that Nature's voices all around them … the soft
singing of the waters; the whisperings of the river grass; the music of
the rushing wind … should not have taught them a truer meaning of life
than this。 They listened there; through the long days; in silence;
waiting for a voice from heaven; and all day long and through the solemn
night it spoke to them in myriad tones; and they heard it not。
From Medmenham to sweet Hambledon Lock the river is full of peaceful
beauty; but; after it passes Greenlands; the rather uninteresting looking
river residence of my newsagent … a quiet unassuming old gentleman; who
may often be met with about these regions; during the summer months;
sculling himself along in easy vigorous style; or chatting genially to
some old lock…keeper; as he passes through … until well the other side of
Henley; it is somewhat bare and dull。
We got up tolerably early on the Monday morning at Marlow; and went for a
bathe before breakfast; and; coming back; Montmorency made an awful ass
of himself。 The only subject on which Montmorency and I have any serious
difference of opinion is cats。 I like cats; Montmorency does not。
When I meet a cat; I say; 〃Poor Pussy!〃 and stop down and tickle the side
of its head; and the cat sticks up its tail in a rigid; cast…iron manner;
arches its back; and wipes its nose up against my trousers; and all is
gentleness and peace。 When Montmorency meets a cat; the whole street
knows about it; and there is enough bad language wasted in ten seconds to
last an ordinarily respectable man all his life; with care。
I do not blame the dog (contenting myself; as a rule; with merely
clouting his head or throwing stones at him); because I take it that it
is his nature。 Fox…terriers are born with about four times as much
original sin in them as other dogs are; and it will take years and years
of patient effort on the part of us Christians to bring about any
appreciable reformation in the rowdiness of the fox…terrier nature。
I remember being in the lobby of the Haymarket Stores one day; and all
round about me were dogs; waiting for the return of their owners; who
were shopping inside。 There were a mastiff; and one or two collies; and
a St。 Bernard; a few retrievers and Newfoundlands; a boar…hound; a French
poodle; with plenty of hair round its head; but mangy about the middle; a
bull…dog; a few Lowther Arcade sort of animals; about the size of rats;
and a couple of Yorkshire tykes。
There they sat; patient; good; and thoughtful。 A solemn peacefulness
seemed to reign in that lobby。 An air of calmness and resignation … of
gentle sadness pervaded the room。
Then a sweet young lady entered; leading a meek…looking little fox…
terrier; and left him; chained up there; between the bull…dog and the
poodle。 He sat and looked about him for a minute。 Then he cast up his
eyes to the ceiling; and seemed; judging from his expression; to be
thinking of his mother。 Then he yawned。 Then he looked round at the
other dogs; all silent; grave; and dignified。
He looked at the bull…dog; sleeping dreamlessly on his right。 He looked
at the poodle; erect and haughty; on his left。 Then; without a word of
warning; without the shadow of a provocation; he bit that poodle's near
fore…leg; and a yelp of agony rang through the quiet shades of that
lobby。
The result of his first experiment seemed highly satisfactory to him; and
he determined to go on and make things lively all round。 He sprang over
the poodle and vigorously attacked a collie; and the collie woke up; and
immediately commenced a fierce a