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fabre, poet of science-第16章

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Mistral at Maillane。



Starting from Orange and crossing the Aygues; a torrent whose muddy waters

are lost in the Rh?ne; but whose bed is dried by the July and August suns;

leaving only a desert of pebbles; where the Mason…bee builds her pretty

turrets of rock…work; we come presently to the Sérignaise country; an arid;

stony tract; planted with vines and olives; coloured a rusty red; or

touched here and there with almost a hue of blood; and here and there a

grove of cypress makes a sombre blot。 To the north runs a long black line

of hills; covered with box and ilex and the giant heather of the south。 Far

in the distance; to the east; the immense plain is closed in by the wall of

Saint…Amant and the ridge of the Dentelle; behind which the lofty Ventoux

rears its rocky; cloven bosom abruptly to the clouds。 At the end of a few

miles of dusty road; swept by the powerful breath of the mistral; we

suddenly reach a little village。 It is a curious little community; with its

central street adorned by a double row of plane…trees; its leaping

fountains; and its almost Italian air。 The houses are lime…washed; with

flat roofs; and sometimes; at the side of some small or decrepit dwelling;

we see the unexpected curves of a loggia。 At a distance the facade of the

church has the harmonious lines of a little antique temple; close at hand

is the graceful campanile; an old octagonal tower surmounted by a narrow

mitre wrought in hammered iron; in the midst of which are seen the black

profiles of the bells。



I shall never forget my first visit。 It was in the month of August; and the

whole countryside was ringing with the song of the cicadae。 I had applied

to a job…master of Orange; counting on him to take me thither; but he had

never driven any one to Sérignan; had hardly heard of Fabre; and did not

know where his house was。 At length; however; we contrived to find it。 At

the entrance of the little market…town; in a solitary corner; in the centre

of an enclosure of lofty walls; which were taller than the crests of the

pines and cypresses; his dwelling was hidden away。 No sound proceeded from

it; but for the baying of the faithful Tom I do not think I should have

dared to knock on the great door; which turned slowly on its hinges。 A pink

house with green shutters; half…hidden amid the sombre foliage; appears at

the end of an alley of lilacs; 〃which sway in the spring under the weight

of their balmy thyrsi。〃 Before the house are the shady plane…trees; where

during the burning hours of August the cicada of the flowering ash; the

deafening cacan; concealed beneath the leaves; fills the hot atmosphere

with its eager cries; the only sound that disturbs the profound silence of

this solitude。



Before us; beyond a little wall of a height to lean upon; on an isolated

lawn; beneath the shade of great trees with interwoven boughs; a circular

basin displays its still surface; across which the skating Hydrometra

traces its wide circles。 Then; suddenly; we see an opening into the most

extraordinary and unexpected of gardens; a wild park; full of strenuous

vegetation; which hides the pebbly soil in all directions; a chaos of

plants and bushes; created throughout especially to attract the insects of

the neighbourhood。



Thickets of wild laurel and dense clumps of lavender encroach upon the

paths; alternating with great bushes of coronilla; which bar the flight of

the butterfly with their yellow…winged flowers; and whose searching

fragrance embalms all the air about them。



It is as though the neighbouring mountain had one day departed; leaving

here its thistles; its dogberry…trees; its brooms; its rushes; its juniper…

bushes; its laburnums; and its spurges。 There too grows the 〃strawberry

tree;〃 whose red fruits wear so familiar an appearance; and tall pines; the

giants of this 〃pigmy forest。〃 There the Japanese privet ripens its black

berries; mingled with the Paulownia and the Cratoegus with their tender

green foliage。 Coltsfoot mingles with violets; clumps of sage and thyme mix

their fragrance with the scent of rosemary and a host of balsamic plants。

Amid the cacti; their fleshy leaves bristling with prickles; the periwinkle

opens its scattered blossoms; while in a corner the serpent arum raises its

cornucopia; in which those insects that love putrescence fall engulfed;

deceived by the horrible savour of its exhalations。



It is in the spring above all that one should see this torrent of verdure;

when the whole enclosure awakens in its festival attire; decked with all

the flowers of May; and the warm air; full of the hum of insects; is

perfumed with a thousand intoxicating scents。 It is in the spring that one

should see the 〃Harmas;〃 the open…air observatory; 〃the laboratory of

living entomology〃 (6/1。); a name and a spot which Fabre has made famous

throughout the world。



I enter the dining…room; whose wide; half…closed shutters allow only a

half…light to enter between the printed curtains。 Rush…bottomed chairs; a

great table; about which seven persons daily take their places; a few poor

pieces of furniture; and a simple bookcase; such are all the contents。 On

the mantel; a clock in black marble; a precious souvenir; the only present

which Fabre received at the time of his exodus from Avignon; it was given

by his old pupils; the young girls who used to attend the free lectures at

Saint…Martial's。



There; every afternoon; half lying on a little sofa; the naturalist has the

habit of taking a short siesta。 This light repose; even without sleep; was

of old enough to restore his energies; exhausted by hours of labour。

Thenceforth he was once more alert; and ready for the remainder of the day。



But already he is on his feet; bareheaded; in his waistcoat; his silk

necktie carelessly fastened under the soft turned…down collar of his half…

open shirt; his gesture; in the shadowy chamber; full of welcome。



Fran?ois Sicard; in his faultless medal and his admirable bust; has

succeeded with rare felicity in reproducing for posterity this rugged;

shaven face; full of laborious years; a peasant face; stamped with

originality; under the wide felt hat of Provence; touched with geniality

and benevolence; yet reflecting a world of energy。 Sicard has fixed for

ever this strange mask; the thin cheeks; ploughed into deep furrows; the

strained nose; the pendent wrinkles of the throat; the thin; shrivelled

lips; with an indescribable fold of bitterness at the corners of the mouth。

The hair; tossed back; falls in fine curls over the ears; revealing a high;

rounded forehead; obstinate and full of thought。 But what chisel; what

graver could reproduce the surprising shrewdness of that gaze; eclipsed

from time to time by a convulsive tremor of the eyelids! What Holbein; what

Chardin could render the almost extraordinary brilliance of those black

eyes; those dilated pupils: the eyes of a prophet; a seer; singularly wide

and deeply set; as though gazing always upon the mystery of things; as

though made expressly to scrutinize Nature and decipher her enigmas? Above

the orbits; two short; bristling eyebrows seem set there to guide the

vision; one; by dint of knitting itself above the magnifying…glass; has

retained an indelible fold of continual attention; the other; on the

contrary; always updrawn; has the look of defying the interlocutor; of

foreseeing his objections; of waiting with an ever…ready return…thrust。

Such is this striking physiognomy; which one who has seen it cannot forget。



There; in this 〃hermit's retreat;〃 as he himself has defined it; the sage

is voluntarily sequestered; a true saint of science; an ascetic living only

on fruits; vegetables; and a little wine; so in love with retirement that

even in the village he was for a long time almost unknown; so careful was

he to go round instead of through it on his way to the neighbouring

mountain; where he would often spend whole days alone with wild nature。



It is in this 

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