essays-1-第51章
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The following baked potatoe…puddings were prepared in the hotel where I lodge； and were tasted by a number of persons； who found them in general very palatable。
Baked Potatoe…puddings。
No。 I。
12 ounces of potatoes； boiled； skinned； and mashed； 1 ounce of suet； 1 ounce （or 1/16 of a pint） of milk； and 1 ounce of Gloucester cheese。 Total 15 ounces；mixed with as much boiling water as was necessary to bring it to a due consistence； and then baked in an earthen pan。
No。 II。
12 ounces of mashed potatoes as before； 1 ounces of milk； and 1 ounce of suet； with a sufficient quantity of salt。Mixed up with boiling water； and baked in a pan。
No。 III。
12 ounces of mashed potatoes； 1 ounce of suet； 1 ounce of red herrings pounded fine in a mortar。Mixedbaked； etc。 as before。
No。 IV。
12 ounces of mashed potatoes； 1 ounce of suet； and 1 ounce of hung beef grated fine with a grater。Mixed and baked as before。
These puddings when baked weighed from 11 to 12 ounces each。 They were all liked by those who tasted them； but No I and No 3 seemed to meet with the most general approbation。
Receipt for a very cheap Potatoe…dumplin。
Take any quantity of potatoes； half boiled；skin or pare them； and grate them to a coarse powder with a grater；mix them up with a very small quantity of flour； 1/16； for instance； of the weight of the potatoes； or even less；add a seasoning of salt； pepper； and sweet herbs；mix up the whole with boiling water to a proper consistency； and form the mass into dumplins of the size of a large apple。 Roll the dumplins； when formed； in flour； to prevent the water from penetrating them； and put them into boiling water； and boil them till they rise to the surface of the water； and swim； when they will be found to be sufficiently done。
These dumplins may be made very savoury by mixing with them a small quantity of grated hung beef； or of pounded red herring。
Fried bread may likewise be mixed with them； and this without any other addition； except a seasoning of salt； forms an excellent dish。
Upon the same principles upon which these dumplins are prepared large boiled bag…puddings may be made； and for feeding the Poor in a public establishment； where great numbers are to be fed； puddings； as these is less trouble in preparing them； are always to be preferred to dumplins。
It would swell this Essay； （which has already exceeded the limits assigned to it；） to the size of a large volume； were I to give receipts for all the good dishes that may be prepared with potatoes。There is however one method of preparing potatoes much in use in many parts of Germany； which appears to me to deserve being particularly mentioned and recommended；it is as follows：
A Receipt for preparing boiled Potatoes with a Sauce。
The potatoes being properly boiled； and skinned； are cut into slices； and put into a dish； and a sauce； similar to that commonly used with a fricaseed chicken； is poured over them。
This makes an excellent and a very wholesome dish； but more calculated； it is true； for the tables of the opulent than for the Poor。Good sauces might however be composed for this dish which would not be expensive。Common milk…porridge； made rather thicker than usual； with wheat flour； and well salted； would not be a bad sauce for it。
Potatoe Salad。
A dish in high repute in some parts of Germany； and which deserves to be particularly recommended； is a salad of potatoes。 The potatoes being properly boiled and skinned； are cut into thin slices； and the same sauce which is commonly used for salads of lettuce is poured over them； some mix anchovies with this sauce； which gives it a very agreeable relish； and with potatoes it is remarkably palatable。
Boiled potatoes cut in slices and fried in butter； or in lard； and seasoned with salt and pepper； is likewise a very palatable and wholesome dish。
Of Barley。
I have more than once mentioned the extraordinary nutritive powers of this grain； and the use of it in feeding the Poor cannot be too strongly recommended。It is now beginning to be much used in this country； mixed with wheat flour； for making bread； but is not； I am persuaded； in bread； but in soups； that Barley can be employed to the greatest advantage。It is astonishing how much water a small quantity of Barley…meal will thicken； and change to the consistency of a jelly； and； if my suspicions with regard to the part which water acts in nutrition are founded； this will enable us to account； not only for the nutritive quality of Barley； but also for the same quality in a still higher degree which sago and salope are known to possess。 Sago and Salope thicken； and change to the consistency of a jelly； （and as I suppose； prepare for decomposition；） a greater quantity of water than Barley； and both sago and salope are known to be nutritious in a very extraordinary degree。
Barley will thicken and change to a jelly much more water than any other grain with which we are acquainted； rice even not excepted；and I have found reason to conclude from the result of innumerable experiments； which in the course of several years have been made under my direction in the public kitchen of the House of Industry at Munich； that for making soups； Barley is by far the best grain that can be employed。
Were I called upon to give an opinion in regard to the comparative nutritiousness of Barley…meal and wheat flour； WHEN USED IN SOUPS I should not hesitate to say that I think the former at least three or four times as nutritious as the latter。
Scotch broth is known to be one of the most nourishing dishes in common use； and there is no doubt but it owes its extraordinary nutritive quality to the Scotch （or Pearl） Barley； which is always used in preparing it。If the Barley be omitted； the broth will be found to be poor and washy； and will afford little nourishment；but any of the other ingredients may be retrenched； even the meat； without impairing very sensibly the nutritive quality of the Food。Its flavour and palatableness may be impaired by such retrenchments； but if the water be well thickened with the Barley； the Food will still be very nourishing。
In preparing the soup used in feeding the Poor in the House of Industry at Munich； Pearl Barley has hitherto been used； but I have found； by some experiments I have lately made in London； that Pearl Barley is by no means necessary； as common Barley…meal will answer； to all intents and purposes； just as well。In one respect it answers better； for it does not require half so much boiling。
In comparing cheap soups for feeding the Poor； the following short and plain directions will be found to be useful：
General Directions for preparing cheap Soup。
First； Each portion of Soup should consist of one pint and a quarter； which； if the Soup be rich； will afford a good meal to a grown person。Such a portion will in general weigh about one pound and a quarter； or twenty ounces Avoirdupois。
Secondly； The basis of each portion of Soup should consist of one ounce and a quarter of Barley…meal； boiled with ONE PINT AND A QUARTER OF WATER till the whole be reduced to the uniform consistency of a thick jelly。All other additions to the Soup do little else than to serve to make it more palatable； or by rendering a long mastication necessary； to increase and prolong the pleasure of eating；both these objects are however of very great importance； and too much attention cannot be paid to them； but both of them may； with proper management； be attained without much expence。
Were I asked to give a Receipt for the cheapest Food which （in my opinion） it would be possible to provide in this country； it would be the following：
Receipt for a very cheap Soup。
Take of water eight gallons； and mixing with it 5 lb。 of Barley…meal； boil it to the consistency of a thick jelly。Season it with salt； pepper； vinegar； sweet herbs； and four red herrings； pounded in a mortar。Instead of bread； add to it 5 lb。 of Indian Corn made into Samp； and stirring it together with a ladle； serve it up immediately in portions of 20 ounces。
Samp； which is here recommended； is a dish said to have been invented
