essays-1-第50章
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ly be worth while to take some trouble to introduce the manufacture of it； particularly as it is already become an article of luxury upon the tables of the rich； and as great quantities of it are annually imported and sold here at a most exorbitant price＇21＇：But maccaroni is by no means the cheapest Food that can be provided for feeding the Poor； in this island；nor do I believe it is so in any country。Polenta； or Indian Corn； of which so much has already been said； and Potatoes； of which too much cannot be said；are both much better adapted； in all respects； for that purpose。Maccaroni would however； I am persuaded； could it be prepared in this country； be much less expensive than many kinds of Food now commonly used by our Poor； and consequently might be of considerable use to them。
With regard to Potatoes they are now so generally known and their usefulness is so universally acknowledged； that it would be a waste of time to attempt to recommend them。I shall therefore content myself with merely giving receipts for a few cheap dishes in which they are employed as a principal ingredient。
Though there is no article used as Food of which a greater variety of well…tasted and wholesome dishes may be prepared than of potatoes； yet it seems to be the unanimous opinion of those who are most acquainted with these useful vegetables； that the best way of cooking them is to boil them simply； and with their skins on； in water。But the manner of boiling them is by no means a matter of indifference。This process is better understood in Ireland； where by much the greater part of the inhabitants live almost entirely on this Food； than any where else。
This is what might have been expected；but those who have never considered with attention the extreme slowness of the progress of national improvements； WHERE NOBODY TAKES PAINS TO ACCELERATE THEM； will doubtless be surprised when they are told that in most parts of England； though the use of potatoes all over the country has for so many years been general； yet； to this hour； few； comparatively； who eat them； know how to dress them properly。 The inhabitants of those countries which lie on the sea…coast opposite to Ireland have adopted the Irish method of boiling potatoes； but it is more than probable that a century at least would have been required for those improvements to have made their way through the island； had not the present alarms on account of a scarcity of grain roused the public； and fixed their attention upon a subject too long neglected in this enlightened country。
The introduction of improvements tending to increase the comforts and innocent enjoyments of that numerous and useful class of mankind who earn their bread by the sweat of their brow； is an object not more interesting to a benevolent mind than it is important in the eyes of an enlightened statesman。
There are； without doubt； GREAT MEN who will smile at seeing these observations connected with a subject so humble and obscure as the boiling of potatoes； but GOOD MEN will feel that the subject is not unworthy of their attention。
The following directions for boiling potatoes； which I have copied from a late Report of the Board of Agriculture； I can recommend from my own experience：
On the boiling of Potatoes so as to be eat as Bread。
There is nothing that would tend more to promote the consumption of potatoes than to have the proper mode of preparing them as Food generally known。In London； this is little attended to； whereas in Lancashire and Ireland the boiling of potatoes is brought to very great perfection indeed。 When prepared in the following manner； if the quality of the root is good； they may be eat as bread； a practice not unusual in Ireland。The potatoes should be； as much as possible； of the same size； and the large and small ones boiled separately。They must be washed clean； and； without paring or scraping； put in a pot with cold water； not sufficient to cover them； as they will produce themselves； before they boil； a considerable quantity of fluid。They do not admit being put into a vessel of boiling water like greens。 If the potatoes are tolerably large； it will be necessary； as soon as they begin to boil； to throw in some cold water； and occasionally to repeat it； till the potatoes are boiled to the heart； （which will take from half an hour to an hour and a quarter； according to their size；） they will otherwise crack； and burst to pieces on the outside； whilst the inside will be nearly in a crude state； and consequently very unpalatable and unwholesome。During the boiling； throwing in a little salt occasionally is found a great improvement； and it is certain that the slower they are cooked the better。When boiled； pour off the water； and evaporate the moisture； by replacing the vessel in which the potatoes were boiled once more over the fire。 This makes them remarkably dry and mealy。They should be brought to the table with the skins on； and eat with a little salt； as bread。Nothing but experience can satisfy any one how superior the potatoe is； thus prepared； if the sort is good and meally。 Some prefer roasting potatoes； but the mode above detailed； extracted partly from the interesting paper of Samuel Hayes； Esquire； of Avondale； in Ireland； （Report on the Culture of Potatoes； P。 103。）； and partly from the Lancashire reprinted Report （p。63。）； and other communications to the Board； is at least equal； if not superior。Some have tried boiling potatoes in steam； thinking by that process that they must imbibe less water。But immersion in water causes the discharge of a certain substance； which the steam alone is incapable of doing； and by retaining which； the flavour of the root is injured； and they afterwards become dry by being put over the fire a second time without water。With a little butter； or milk； of fish； they make an excellent mess。
These directions are so clear； that it is hardly possible to mistake them； and those who follow them exactly will find their potatoes surprisingly improved； and will be convinced that the manner of boiling them is a matter of much greater importance than has hitherto been imagined。
Were this method of boiling potatoes generally known in countries where these vegetables are only beginning to make their way into common use； as in Bavaria； for instance；I have no doubt but it would contribute more than any thing else to their speedy introduction。
The following account of an experiment； lately made in one of the parishes of this metropolis （London）； was communicated to me by a friend； who has permitted me to publish it。It will serve to show；what I am most anxious to make appear； that the prejudices of the Poor in regard to their Food ARE NOT UNCONQUERABLE February 25th； 1796。
The parish officers of Saint Olaves； Southwark； desirous of contributing their aid towards lessening the consumption of wheat； resolved on the following succedaneum for their customary suet puddings； which they give to their Poor for dinner one day in the week； which was ordered as follows：
L。 s。 d。 200 lb。 potatoes boiled； and skinned and mashed 。。。 。。。 0 8 0 2 gallons of milk 。。。 。。。 。。。 0 2 4 12 lb。 of suet； at 4 1/2 。。。 0 4 6 1 peck of flour 。。。 。。。 。。。 0 4 0 Baking 。。。 。。。 。。。 。。。 。。。 0 1 8 … Expense 1 0 6 … Their ordinary suet pudding had been made thus：
2 bushels of flour 。。。 。。。 。。。 1 12 0 12 lb。 suet 。。。 。。。 。。。 。。。 0 4 6 Baking 。。。 。。。 。。。 。。。 。。。 0 1 8 … Expense 1 18 2 Cost of the ingredients for the potatoes suet pudding 。。。 。。。 1 0 6 … Difference 0 17 8 …
This was the dinner provided for 200 persons； who gave a decided perference to the cheapest of these preparations； and with it to be continued。
The following baked potatoe…puddings were prepared in the hotel where I lodge； and were tasted by a number of persons； who found them in general very palatable。
Baked Potatoe…puddings。
