essays-1-第47章
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ountry; import annually for their own consumption Indian Corn from the Continent of America。
In order to be able to give the most particular and satisfactory information respecting the manner of preparing these Indian puddings; I caused one of them to be made here; (in London;) under my immediate direction; by a person born and brought up in North America; and who understands perfectly the American art of cookery in all its branches'17'。 This pudding; which was allowed by competent judges who tasted it to be as good as they had ever eaten; was composed and prepared in the following manner:
Approved Receipt for making a plain Indian Pudding。
Three pounds of Indian meal (from which the bran had been separated by sifting it in a common hair sieve) were put into a large bowl; and five pints of boiling water were put to it; and the whole well stirred together; three quarters of a pound of molasses and one ounce of salt were then added to it; and these being well mixed; by stirring them with the other ingredients; the pudding was poured into a fit bag; and the bag being tied up; (an empty space being left in the bag tying it; equal to about one…sixth of its contents; for giving room for the pudding to swell;) this pudding was put into a kettle of boiling water; and was boiled six hours without intermission; the loss of the water in the kettle by evaporation during this time being frequently replaced with boiling water from another kettle。
The pudding upon being taken out of the bag weighed ten pounds and one ounce; and it was found to be perfectly done; not having the smallest remains of that raw taste so disagreeable to all palates; and particularly to those who are not used to it; which always predominates in dishes prepared of Indian meal when they are not sufficiently cooked。
As this raw taste is the only well…founded objection that can be made to this most useful grain; and is; I am persuaded; the only cause which makes it disliked by those who are not accustomed to it; I would advise those who may attempt to introduce it into common use; where it is not known; to begin with Indian (bag) puddings; such as I have here been describing; and that this is a very cheap kind of Food will be evident from the following computation:
Expense of preparing the Indian Pudding above mentioned。
Pence。 Pence。 3 lb。 of Indian meal at 。。。 。。。 1 1/2 。。。 4 1/2 3/4 lb。 of molasses at 。。。 。。。 6 。。。 4 1/2 1 oz。 of salt at 2d。 per lb。 。。。 。。。 。。。 0 1/8 Total for the ingredients; 9 1/8
As this pudding weighed 10 1/16 lbs。 and the ingredients cost nine pence and half a farthing; this gives three farthings and a half for each pound of pudding。
It will be observed; that in this computation I have reckoned the Indian meal at no more than 1 1/2d per pound; whereas in the calculation which was given to determine the expense of preparing hasty…pudding it was taken at two pence a pound。 I have here reckoned it at 1 1/2d。 a pound; because I am persuaded it might be had here in London for that price; and even for less。That which has lately been imported from Boston has not cost so much; and were it not for the present universal scarcity of provisions in Europe; which has naturally raised the price of grain in North America; I have no doubt but Indian meal might be had in this country for less than one penny farthing per pound。
In composing the Indian pudding above mentioned; the molasses is charged at 6d。 the pound; but that price is very exorbitant。 A gallon of molasses weighing about 10 lb。 commonly costs in the West Indies from 7d。 to 9d。 sterling; and allowing sufficiently for the expenses of freight; insurance; and a fair profit for the merchant; it certainly ought not to cost in London more than 1s。 8d。 the gallon'18'; and this would bring it to 2d。 per pound。
If we take the prices of Indian meal and molasses as they are here ascertained; and compute the expense of the ingredients for the pudding before mentioned; it will be as follows:
Pence。 Pence。 3 lb。 of Indian meal at 。。。 。。。 1 1/4 。。。 3 3/4 3/4 lb。 of molasses at 。。。 。。。 2 。。。 1 1/2 1 oz。 of salt at 2d。 per lb。 。。。 。。。 。。。 0 1/8 Total for the ingredients; 5 3/8
Now as the pudding weighed 10 1/16 lbs。 this gives two farthings; very nearly; for each pound of pudding; which is certainly very cheap indeed; particularly when the excellent qualities of the Food are considered。
This pudding; which ought to come out of the bag sufficiently hard to retain its form; and even to be cut into slices; is so rich and palatable; that it may very well be eaten without any sauce; but those who can afford it commonly eat it with butter。 A slice of the pudding; about half an inch; or three quarters of an inch in thickness; being laid hot upon a plate; an excavation is made in the middle of it; with the point of the knife; into which a small piece of butter; as large perhaps as a nutmeg; is put; and where it soon melts。 To expedite the melting of the butter; the small piece of pudding which is cut out of the middle of the slice to form the excavation for receiving the butter; is frequently laid over the butter for a few moments; and is taken away (and eaten) as soon as the butter is melted。 If the butter is not salt enough; a little salt is put into it after it is melted。 The pudding is to be eaten with a knife and fork; beginning at the circumference of the slice; and approaching regularly towards the center; each piece of pudding being taken up with the fork; and dipped into the butter; or
dipped into it IN PART ONLY; as is commonly the case; before it is carried to the mouth。
To those who are accustomed to view objects upon a great scale; and who are too much employed in directing what ought to be done; to descend to those humble investigations which are necessary to show HOW it is to be effected; these details will doubtless appear trifling and ridiculous; but as my mind is strongly impressed with the importance of giving the most minute and circumstantial information respecting the MANNER OF PERFORMING any operation; however simple it may be; to which people have not been accustomed; I must beg the indulgence of those who may not feel themselves particularly interested in these descriptions。
In regard to the amount of the expence for sauce for a plain Indian (bag) pudding; I have found that when butter is used for that purpose; (and no other sauce ought ever to be used with it;) half an ounce of butter will suffice for one pound of the pudding。 It is very possible to contrive matters so as to use much more;perhaps twice; or three times as much;but if the directions relative to the MANNER of eating this Food; which have already been given; are strictly followed; the allowance of butter here determined will be quite sufficient for the purpose for which it is designed; that is to say; for giving an agreeable relish to the pudding。Those who are particularly fond of butter may use three quarters of an ounce of it with a pound of the pudding; but I am certain; that to use an ounce would be to waste it to no purpose whatever。
If now we reckon Irish; or other firkin butter; (which; as it is salted; is the best that can be used;) at eight pence the pound; the sauce for one pound of pudding; namely; half an ounce of butter; will cost just one farthing; and this; added to the cost of the pudding; two farthings the pound; gives three farthing for the cost by the pound of this kind of food; with its sauce; and; as this food is not only very rich and nutritive; but satisfying at the same time in a very remarkable degree; it appears how well calculated it is for feeding the Poor。
It should be remembered; that the molasses used as an ingredient in these Indian puddings; does not serve merely to give taste to them;it acts a still more important part;it gives what; in the language of the kitchen; is called lightness。It is a substitute for eggs; and nothing but eggs can serve as a substitute for it; except it be treacle; which