part02-第4章
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apartments of the palace。 My object is merely to give the reader a
general introduction into an abode where; if so disposed; he may
linger and loiter with me day by day until we gradually become
familiar with all its localities。
Note on Morisco Architecture
To an unpractised eye the light relievos and fanciful arabesques
which cover the walls of the Alhambra appear to have been sculptured
by the hand; with a minute and patient labor; an inexhaustible variety
of detail; yet a general uniformity and harmony of design truly
astonishing; and this may especially be said of the vaults and
cupolas; which are wrought like honey…combs; or frostwork; with
stalactites and pendants which confound the beholder with the
seeming intricacy of their patterns。 The astonishment ceases; however;
when it is discovered that this is all stucco…work: plates of
plaster of Paris; cast in moulds and skilfully joined so as to form
patterns of every size and form。 This mode of diapering walls with
arabesques and stuccoing the vaults with grotto…work; was invented
in Damascus; but highly improved by the Moors in Morocco; to whom
Saracenic architecture owes its most graceful and fanciful details。
The process by which all this fairy tracery was produced was
ingeniously simple: The wall in its naked state was divided off by
lines crossing at right angles; such as artists use in copying a
picture; over these were drawn a succession of intersecting segments
of circles。 By the aid of these the artists could work with celerity
and certainty; and from the mere intersection of the plain and
curved lines arose the interminable variety of patterns and the
general uniformity of their character。
Much gilding was used in the stucco…work; especially of the cupolas:
and the interstices were delicately pencilled with brilliant colors;
such as vermilion and lapis lazuli; laid on with the whites of eggs。
The primitive colors alone were used; says Ford; by the Egyptians;
Greeks; and Arabs; in the early period of art; and they prevail in the
Alhambra whenever the artist has been Arabic or Moorish。 It is
remarkable how much of their original brilliancy remains after the
lapse of several centuries。
The lower part of the walls in the saloons; to the height of several
feet; is incrusted with glazed tiles; joined like the plates of
stucco…work; so as to form various patterns。 On some of them are
emblazoned the escutcheons of the Moslem kings; traversed with a
band and motto。 These glazed tiles (azulejos in Spanish; az…zulaj in
Arabic) are of Oriental origin; their coolness; cleanliness; and
freedom from vermin; render them admirably fitted in sultry climates
for paving halls and fountains; incrusting bathing rooms; and lining
the walls of chambers。 Ford is inclined to give them great
antiquity。 From their prevailing colors; sapphire and blue; he deduces
that they may have formed the kind of pavements alluded to in the
sacred Scriptures… 〃There was under his feet as it were a paved work
of a sapphire stone〃 (Exod。 xxiv。 10); and again; 〃Behold I will lay
thy stones with fair colors; and lay thy foundations with
sapphires。〃 (Isaiah liv。 11。)
These glazed or porcelain tiles were introduced into Spain at an
early date by the Moslems。 Some are to be seen among the Moorish ruins
which have been there upwards of eight centuries。 Manufactures of them
still exist in the peninsula; and they are much used in the best
Spanish houses; especially in the southern provinces; for paving and
lining the summer apartments。
The Spaniards introduced them into the Netherlands when they had
possession of that country。 The people of Holland adopted them with
avidity; as wonderfully suited to their passion for household
cleanliness; and thus these Oriental inventions; the azulejos of the
Spanish; the az…zulaj of the Arabs; have come to be commonly known
as Dutch tiles。
Important Negotiations。
The Author Succeeds to the
Throne of Boabdil。
THE DAY was nearly spent before we could tear ourselves from this
region of poetry and romance to descend to the city and return to
the forlorn realities of a Spanish posada。 In a visit of ceremony to
the Governor of the Alhambra; to whom we had brought letters; we dwelt
with enthusiasm on the scenes we had witnessed; and could not but
express surprise that he should reside in the city when he had such
a paradise at his command。 He pleaded the inconvenience of a residence
in the palace from its situation on the crest of a hill; distant
from the seat of business and the resorts of social intercourse。 It
did very well for monarchs; who often had need of castle walls to
defend them from their own subjects。 〃But senores;〃 added he; smiling;
〃if you think a residence there so desirable; my apartments in the
Alhambra are at your service。〃
It is a common and almost indispensable point of politeness in a
Spaniard; to tell you his house is yours。… 〃Esta casa es siempre a
la disposicion de Vm。〃 〃This house is always at the command of your
Grace。〃 In fact; any thing of his which you admire; is immediately
offered to you。 It is equally a mark of good breeding in you not to
accept it; so we merely bowed our acknowledgments of the courtesy of
the Governor in offering us a royal palace。 We were mistaken; however。
The Governor was in earnest。 〃You will find a rambling set of empty;
unfurnished rooms;〃 said he; 〃but Tia Antonia; who has charge of the
palace; may be able to put them in some kind of order; and to take
care of you while you are there。 If you can make any arrangement
with her for your accommodation; and are content with scanty fare in a
royal abode; the palace of King Chico is at your service。〃
We took the Governor at his word; and hastened up the steep Calle de
los Gomeres; and through the Great Gate of Justice; to negotiate
with Dame Antonia; doubting at times if this were not a dream; and
fearing at times that the sage Duena of the fortress might be slow
to capitulate。 We knew we had one friend at least in the garrison; who
would be in our favor; the bright…eyed little Dolores; whose good
graces we had propitiated on our first visit; and who hailed our
return to the palace with her brightest looks。
All; however; went smoothly。 The good Tia Antonia had a little
furniture to put in the rooms; but it was of the commonest kind。 We
assured her we could bivouac on the floor。 She could supply our table;
but only in her own simple way… we wanted nothing better。 Her niece;
Dolores; would wait upon us and at the word we threw up our hats and
the bargain was complete。
The very next day we took up our abode in the palace; and never
did sovereigns share a divided throne with more perfect harmony。
Several days passed by like a dream; when my worthy associate; being
summoned to Madrid on diplomatic duties; was compelled to abdicate;
leaving me sole monarch of this shadowy realm。 For myself; being in
a manner a haphazard loiterer about the world and prone to linger in
its pleasant places; here have I been suffering day by day to steal
away unheeded; spellbound; for aught I know; in this old enchanted
pile。 Having always a companionable feeling for my reader; and being
prone to live with him on confidential terms; I shall make it a
point to communicate to him my reveries and researches during this
state of delicious thraldom。 If they have the power of imparting to
his imagination any of the witching charms of the place; he will not
repine at lingering with me for a season in the legendary halls of the
Alhambra。
At first it is proper to give him some idea of my domestic
arrangements; they are rather of a simple kind for the occupant of a
regal palace; but I trust they will be less liable to disastrous
reverses than those of my royal predecessors。
My quarters are at one end of the Governor's apartment; a suite of
empty c