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第3章

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the fountain famous in song and story。 The alabaster basins still shed

their diamond drops; the twelve lions which support them; and give the

court its name; still cast forth crystal streams as in the days of

Boabdil。 The lions; however; are unworthy of their fame; being of

miserable sculpture; the work probably of some Christian captive。

The court is laid out in flower…beds; instead of its ancient and

appropriate pavement of tiles or marble; the alteration; an instance

of bad taste; was made by the French when in possession of Granada。

Round the four sides of the court are light Arabian arcades of open

filigree work supported by slender pillars of white marble; which it

is supposed were originally gilded。 The architecture; like that in

most parts of the interior of the palace; is characterized by

elegance; rather than grandeur; bespeaking a delicate and graceful

taste; and a disposition to indolent enjoyment。 When one looks upon

the fairy traces of the peristyles; and the apparently fragile

fretwork of the walls; it is difficult to believe that so much has

survived the wear and tear of centuries; the shocks of earthquakes;

the violence of war; and the quiet; though no less baneful; pilferings

of the tasteful traveller; it is almost sufficient to excuse the

popular tradition that the whole is protected by a magic charm。

  On one side of the court a rich portal opens into the Hall of the

Abencerrages; so called from the gallant cavaliers of that illustrious

line who were here perfidiously massacred。 There are some who doubt

the whole story; but our humble cicerone Mateo pointed out the very

wicket of the portal through which they were introduced one by one

into the Court of Lions; and the white marble fountain in the centre

of the hall beside which they were beheaded。 He showed us also certain

broad ruddy stains on the pavement; traces of their blood; which;

according to popular belief; can never be effaced。

  Finding we listened to him apparently with easy faith; he added;

that there was often heard at night; in the Court of Lions; a low

confused sound; resembling the murmuring of a multitude; and now and

then a faint tinkling; like the distant clank of chains。 These

sounds were made by the spirits of the murdered Abencerrages; who

nightly haunt the scene of their suffering and invoke the vengeance of

Heaven on their destroyer。

  The sounds in question had no doubt been produced; as I had

afterwards an opportunity of ascertaining; by the bubbling currents

and tinkling falls of water conducted under the pavement through pipes

and channels to supply the fountains; but I was too considerate to

intimate such an idea to the humble chronicler of the Alhambra。

  Encouraged by my easy credulity; Mateo gave me the following as an

undoubted fact; which he had from his grandfather:

  There was once an invalid soldier; who had charge of the Alhambra to

show it to strangers: as he was one evening; about twilight; passing

through the Court of Lions; he heard footsteps on the Hall of the

Abencerrages; supposing some strangers to be lingering there; he

advanced to attend upon them; when to his astonishment he beheld

four Moors richly dressed; with gilded cuirasses and cimeters; and

poniards glittering with precious stones。 They were walking to and

fro; with solemn pace; but paused and beckoned to him。 The old

soldier; however; took to flight; and could never afterwards be

prevailed upon to enter the Alhambra。 Thus it is that men sometimes

turn their backs upon fortune; for it is the firm opinion of Mateo;

that the Moors intended to reveal the place where their treasures

lay buried。 A successor to the invalid soldier was more knowing; he

came to the Alhambra poor; but at the end of a year went off to

Malaga; bought houses; set up a carriage; and still lives there one of

the richest as well as oldest men of the place; all which; Mateo

sagely surmised; was in consequence of his finding out the golden

secret of these phantom Moors。

  I now perceived I had made an invaluable acquaintance in this son of

the Alhambra; one who knew all the apocryphal history of the place;

and firmly believed in it; and whose memory was stuffed with a kind of

knowledge for which I have a lurking fancy; but which is too apt to be

considered rubbish by less indulgent philosophers。 I determined to

cultivate the acquaintance of this learned Theban。

  Immediately opposite the Hall of the Abencerrages a portal; richly

adorned; leads into a hall of less tragical associations。 It is

light and lofty; exquisitely graceful in its architecture; paved

with white marble; and bears the suggestive name of the Hall of the

Two Sisters。 Some destroy the romance of the name by attributing it to

two enormous slabs of alabaster which lie side by side; and form a

great part of the pavement; an opinion strongly supported by Mateo

Ximenes。 Others are disposed to give the name a more poetical

significance; as the vague memorial of Moorish beauties who once

graced this hall; which was evidently a part of the royal harem。

This opinion I was happy to find entertained by our little bright…eyed

guide; Dolores; who pointed to a balcony over an inner porch; which

gallery; she had been told; belonged to the women's apartment。 〃You

see; senor;〃 said she; 〃it is all grated and latticed; like the

gallery in a convent chapel where the nuns hear mass; for the

Moorish kings;〃 added she; indignantly; 〃shut up their wives just like

nuns。〃

  The latticed 〃jalousies;〃 in fact; still remain; whence the

dark…eyed beauties of the harem might gaze unseen upon the zambras and

other dances and entertainments of the hall below。

  On each side of this hall are recesses or alcoves for ottomans and

couches; on which the voluptuous lords of the Alhambra indulged in

that dreamy repose so dear to the Orientalists。 A cupola or lantern

admits a tempered light from above and a free circulation of air;

while on one side is heard the refreshing sound of waters from the

fountain of the lions; and on the other side the soft plash from the

basin in the garden of Lindaraxa。

  It is impossible to contemplate this scene so perfectly Oriental

without feeling the early associations of Arabian romance; and

almost expecting to see the white arm of some mysterious princess

beckoning from the gallery; or some dark eye sparkling through the

lattice。 The abode of beauty is here; as if it had been inhabited

but yesterday; but where are the two sisters; where the Zoraydas and

Lindaraxas!

  An abundant supply of water; brought from the mountains by old

Moorish aqueducts; circulates throughout the palace; supplying its

baths and fishpools; sparkling in jets within its halls; or

murmuring in channels along the marble pavements。 When it has paid its

tribute to the royal pile; and visited its gardens and parterres; it

flows down the long avenue leading to the city; tinkling in rills;

gushing in fountains; and maintaining a perpetual verdure in those

groves that embower and beautify the whole hill of the Alhambra。

  Those only who have sojourned in the ardent climates of the South;

can appreciate the delights of an abode; combining the breezy coolness

of the mountain with the freshness and verdure of the valley。 While

the city below pants with the noontide heat; and the parched Vega

trembles to the eye; the delicate airs from the Sierra Nevada play

through these lofty halls; bringing with them the sweetness of the

surrounding gardens。 Every thing invites to that indolent repose;

the bliss of southern climes; and while the half…shut eye looks out

from shaded balconies upon the glittering landscape; the ear is lulled

by the rustling of groves; and the murmur of running streams。

  I forbear for the present; however; to describe the other delightful

apartments of the palace。 My object is merely to give the reader a

general introduction into an abode where; if so disposed; he may

linger and loiter with

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