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so。 We are the oldest family in the Alhambra… Cristianos viejos; old

Christians; without any taint of Moor or Jew。 I know we belong to some

great family or other; but I forget whom。 My father knows all about

it: he has the coat…of…arms hanging up in his cottage; up in the

fortress。〃… There is not any Spaniard; however poor; but has some

claim to high pedigree。 The first title of this ragged worthy;

however; had completely captivated me; so I gladly accepted the

services of the 〃son of the Alhambra。〃

  We now found ourselves in a deep narrow ravine; filled with

beautiful groves; with a steep avenue; and various footpaths winding

through it; bordered with stone seats; and ornamented with

fountains。 To our left; we beheld the towers of the Alhambra

beetling above us; to our right; on the opposite side of the ravine;

we were equally dominated by rival towers on a rocky eminence。

These; we were told; were the Torres Vermejos; or vermilion towers; so

called from their ruddy hue。 No one knows their origin。 They are of

a date much anterior to the Alhambra: some suppose them to have been

built by the Romans; others; by some wandering colony of

Phoenicians。 Ascending the steep and shady avenue; we arrived at the

foot of a huge square Moorish tower; forming a kind of barbican;

through which passed the main entrance to the fortress。 Within the

barbican was another group of veteran invalids; one mounting guard

at the portal; while the rest; wrapped in their tattered cloaks; slept

on the stone benches。 This portal is called the Gate of Justice;

from the tribunal held within its porch during the Moslem

domination; for the immediate trial of petty causes: a custom common

to the oriental nations; and occasionally alluded to in the Sacred

Scriptures。 〃Judge and officers shalt thou make thee in all thy gates;

and they shall judge the people with just judgment。〃

  The great vestibule; or porch of the gate; is formed by an immense

Arabian arch; of the horseshoe form; which springs to half the

height of the tower。 On the keystone of this arch is engraven a

gigantic hand。 Within the vestibule; on the keystone of the portal; is

sculptured; in like manner; a gigantic key。 Those who pretend to

some knowledge of Mohammedan symbols; affirm that the hand is the

emblem of doctrine; the five fingers designating the five principal

commandments of the creed of Islam; fasting; pilgrimage;

alms…giving; ablution; and war against infidels。 The key; say they; is

the emblem of the faith or of power; the key of Daoud or David;

transmitted to the prophet。 〃And the key of the house of David will

I lay upon his shoulder; so he shall open and none shall shut; and

he shall shut and none shall open。〃 (Isaiah xxii。 22。) The key we

are told was emblazoned on the standard of the Moslems in opposition

to the Christian emblem of the cross; when they subdued Spain or

Andalusia。 It betokened the conquering power invested in the

prophet。 〃He that hath the key of David; he that openeth and no man

shutteth; and shutteth and no man openeth。〃 (Rev。 iii。 7。)

  A different explanation of these emblems; however; was given by

the legitimate son of the Alhambra; and one more in unison with the

notions of the common people; who attach something of mystery and

magic to every thing Moorish; and have all kind of superstitions

connected with this old Moslem fortress。 According to Mateo; it was

a tradition handed down from the oldest inhabitants; and which he

had from his father and grandfather; that the hand and key were

magical devices on which the fate of the Alhambra depended。 The

Moorish king who built it was a great magician; or; as some

believed; had sold himself to the devil; and had laid the whole

fortress under a magic spell。 By this means it had remained standing

for several hundred years; in defiance of storms and earthquakes;

while almost all other buildings of the Moors had fallen to ruin;

and disappeared。 This spell; the tradition went on to say; would

last until the hand on the outer arch should reach down and grasp

the key; when the whole pile would tumble to pieces; and all the

treasures buried beneath it by the Moors would be revealed。

  Notwithstanding this ominous prediction; we ventured to pass through

the spell…bound gateway; feeling some little assurance against magic

art in the protection of the Virgin; a statue of whom we observed

above the portal。

  After passing through the barbican; we ascended a narrow lane;

winding between walls; and came on an open esplanade within the

fortress; called the Plaza de los Algibes; or Place of the Cisterns;

from great reservoirs which undermine it; cut in the living rock by

the Moors to receive the water brought by conduits from the Darro; for

the supply of the fortress。 Here; also; is a well of immense depth;

furnishing the purest and coldest of water; another monument of the

delicate taste of the Moors; who were indefatigable in their exertions

to obtain that element in its crystal purity。

  In front of this esplanade is the splendid pile commenced by Charles

V; and intended; it is said; to eclipse the residence of the Moorish

kings。 Much of the oriental edifice intended for the winter season was

demolished to make way for this massive pile。 The grand entrance was

blocked up; so that the present entrance to the Moorish palace is

through a simple and almost humble portal in a corner。 With all the

massive grandeur and architectural merit of the palace of Charles V;

we regarded it as an arrogant intruder; and passing by it with a

feeling almost of scorn; rang at the Moslem portal。

  While waiting for admittance; our self…imposed cicerone; Mateo

Ximenes; informed us that the royal palace was intrusted to the care

of a worthy old maiden dame called Dona Antonia…Molina; but who;

according to Spanish custom; went by the more neighborly appellation

of Tia Antonia (Aunt Antonia); who maintained the Moorish halls and

gardens in order and showed them to strangers。 While we were

talking; the door was opened by a plump little black…eyed Andalusian

damsel; whom Mateo addressed as Dolores; but who from her bright looks

and cheerful disposition evidently merited a merrier name。 Mateo

informed me in a whisper that she was the niece of Tia Antonia; and

I found she was the good fairy who was to conduct us through the

enchanted palace。 Under her guidance we crossed the threshold; and

were at once transported; as if by magic wand; into other times and an

oriental realm; and were treading the scenes of Arabian story。 Nothing

could be in greater contrast than the unpromising exterior of the pile

with the scene now before us。

  We found ourselves in a vast patio or court one hundred and fifty

feet in length; and upwards of eighty feet in breadth; paved with

white marble; and decorated at each end with light Moorish peristyles;

one of which supported an elegant gallery of fretted architecture。

Along the mouldings of the cornices and on various parts of the

walls were escutcheons and ciphers; and cufic and Arabic characters in

high relief; repeating the pious mottoes of the Moslem monarchs; the

builders of the Alhambra; or extolling their grandeur and munificence。

Along the centre of the court extended an immense basin or tank

(estanque) a hundred and twenty…four feet in length; twenty…seven in

breadth; and five in depth; receiving its water from two marble vases。

Hence it is called the Court of the Alberca (from al Beerkah; the

Arabic for a pond or tank)。 Great numbers of gold…fish were to be seen

gleaming through the waters of the basin; and it was bordered by

hedges of roses。

  Passing from the Court of the Alberca under a Moorish archway; we

entered the renowned Court of Lions。 No part of the edifice gives a

more complete idea of its original beauty than this; for none has

suffered so little from the ravages of time。 In the centre stands

the fountain famous in song and story。 The alabaster basins still 

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