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第36章

the origins of contemporary france-1-第36章

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fine busts; and on the capacious; sparkling and garlanded dresses。  The

skirts of the ladies ranged in a circle; or in tiers on the benches;

〃form a rich espalier covered with pearls; gold; silver; jewels;

spangles; flowers and fruits; with their artificial blossoms;

gooseberries; cherries; and strawberries;〃 a gigantic animated bouquet

of which the eye can scarcely support the brilliancy。  There are no

black coats; as nowadays; to disturb the harmony。  With the hair

powdered and dressed; with buckles and knots; with cravats and ruffles

of lace; in silk coats and vests of the hues of fallen leaves; or of a

delicate rose tint; or of celestial blue; embellished with gold braid

and embroidery; the men are as elegant as the women。  Men and women;

each is a selection; they all are of the accomplished class; gifted

with every grace which good blood; education; fortune; leisure and

custom can bestow; they are perfect of their kind。  There is no toilet;

no carriage of the head; no tone of the voice; no expression in

language which is not a masterpiece of worldly culture; the distilled

quintessence of all that is exquisitely elaborated by social art。

Polished as the high society of Paris may be; it does not approach

this;'36' compared with the court; it seems provincial。  It is said

that a hundred thousand roses are required to make an ounce of the

unique perfume used by Persian kings; such is this drawing…room; the

frail vial of crystal and gold containing the substance of a human

vegetation。  To fill it; a great aristocracy had to be transplanted to

a hot…house and become sterile in fruit and flowers; and then; in the

royal alembic; its pure sap is concentrated into a few drops of aroma。

The price is excessive; but only at this price can the most delicate

perfumes be manufactured。



IV。  EVERYDAY LIFE IN COURT。



The king's occupations。  … Rising in the morning; mass; dinner;

walks; hunting; supper; play; evening receptions。  … He is always on

parade and in company。



An operation of this kind absorbs him who undertakes it as well as

those who undergo it。  A nobility for useful purposes is not

transformed with impunity into a nobility for ornament;'37' one falls

himself into the ostentation which is substituted for action。  The king

has a court which he is compelled to maintain。  So much the worse if it

absorbs all his time; his intellect; his soul; the most valuable

portion of his active forces and the forces of the State。  To be the

master of a house is not an easy task; especially when five hundred

persons are to be entertained; one must necessarily pass one's life in

public and all the time being on exhibition。  Strictly speaking it is

the life of an actor who is on the stage the entire day。  To support

this load; and work besides; required the temperament of Louis XIV;

the vigor of his body; the extraordinary firmness of his nerves; the

strength of his digestion; and the regularity of his habits; his

successors who come after him grow weary or stagger under the same

load。  But they cannot throw it off; an incessant; daily performance is

inseparable from their position and it is imposed on them like a

heavy; gilded; ceremonial coat。  The king is expected to keep the

entire aristocracy busy; consequently to make a display of himself; to

pay back with his own person; at all hours; even the most private;

even on getting out of bed; and even in his bed。  In the morning; at

the hour named by himself beforehand;'38' the head valet awakens him;

five series of persons enter in turn to perform their duty; and;

〃although very large; there are days when the waiting…rooms can hardly

contain the crowd of courtiers。〃  …  The first admittance is 〃l'entrée

familière;〃 consisting of the children of France; the princes and

princesses of the blood; and; besides these; the chief physician; the

chief surgeon and other serviceable persons。'39' Next; comes the

〃grande entrée;' which comprises the grand…chamberlain; the grand…

master and master of the wardrobe; the first gentlemen of the

bedchamber; the Ducs d'Orleans and de Penthièvre; some other highly

favored seigniors; the ladies of honor and in waiting of the queen;

Mesdames and other princesses; without enumerating barbers tailors and

various descriptions of valets。  Meanwhile spirits of wine are poured

on the king's hands from a service of plate; and he is then handed the

basin of holy water; he crosses himself and repeats a prayer。  Then he

gets out of bed before all these people and puts on his slippers。  The

grand…chamberlain and the first gentleman hand him his dressing…gown;

he puts this on and seats himself in the chair in which he is to put

on his clothes。  At this moment the door opens and a third group

enters; which is the 〃entrée des brevets;〃 the seigniors who compose

this enjoy; in addition; the precious privilege of assisting at the

〃petite coucher;〃 while; at the same moment there enters a detachment

of attendants; consisting of the physicians and surgeons in ordinary;

the intendants of the amusements; readers and others; and among the

latter those who preside over physical requirements; the publicity of

a royal life is so great that none of its functions can be exercised

without witnesses。  At the moment of the approach of the officers of

the wardrobe to dress him the first gentleman; notified by an usher;

advances to read to the king the names of the grandees who are waiting

at the door: this is the fourth entry called 〃la chambre;〃 and larger

than those preceding it; for; not to mention the cloak…bearers; gun…

bearers; rug…bearers and other valets it comprises most of the

superior officials; the grand…almoner; the almoners on duty; the

chaplain; the master of the oratory; the captain and major of the

body…guard; the colonel…general and major of the French guards; the

colonel of the king's regiment; the captain of the Cent Suisses; the

grand…huntsman; the grand wolf…huntsman; the grand…provost; the grand…

master and master of ceremonies; the first butler; the grand…master of

the pantry; the foreign ambassadors; the ministers and secretaries of

state; the marshals of France and most of the seigniors and prelates

of distinction。  Ushers place the ranks in order and; if necessary;

impose silence。  Meanwhile the king washes his hands and begins his

toilet。  Two pages remove his slippers; the grand…master of the

wardrobe draws off his night…shirt by the right arm; and the first

valet of the wardrobe by the left arm; and both of them hand it to an

officer of the wardrobe; whilst a valet of the wardrobe fetches the

shirt wrapped up in white taffeta。  Things have now reached the solemn

point; the culmination of the ceremony; the fifth entry has been

introduced; and; in a few moments; after the king has put his shirt

on; all that is left of those who are known; with other house hold

officers waiting in the gallery; complete the influx。  There is quite a

formality in regard to this shirt。  The honor of handing it is reserved

to the sons and grandsons of France; in default of these to the

princes of the blood or those legitimized; in their default to the

grand…chamberlain or to the first gentleman of the bedchamber ; …  the

latter case; it must be observed; being very rare; the princes being

obliged to be present at the king's lever; as were the princesses at

that of the queen。'40' At last the shirt is presented and a valet

carries off the old one; the first valet of the wardrobe and the first

valet…de…chambre hold the fresh one; each by a right and left arm

respectively;'41' while two other valets; during this operation;

extend his dressing…gown in front of him to serve as a screen。  The

shirt is now on his back and the toilet commences。  A valet…de…chambre

supports a mirror before the king while two others on the two sides

light it up; if occasion requires; with flambeaux。  Valets of the

wardrobe fetch the rest of the attire; the grand…mast

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