the origins of contemporary france-1-第36章
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fine busts; and on the capacious; sparkling and garlanded dresses。 The
skirts of the ladies ranged in a circle; or in tiers on the benches;
〃form a rich espalier covered with pearls; gold; silver; jewels;
spangles; flowers and fruits; with their artificial blossoms;
gooseberries; cherries; and strawberries;〃 a gigantic animated bouquet
of which the eye can scarcely support the brilliancy。 There are no
black coats; as nowadays; to disturb the harmony。 With the hair
powdered and dressed; with buckles and knots; with cravats and ruffles
of lace; in silk coats and vests of the hues of fallen leaves; or of a
delicate rose tint; or of celestial blue; embellished with gold braid
and embroidery; the men are as elegant as the women。 Men and women;
each is a selection; they all are of the accomplished class; gifted
with every grace which good blood; education; fortune; leisure and
custom can bestow; they are perfect of their kind。 There is no toilet;
no carriage of the head; no tone of the voice; no expression in
language which is not a masterpiece of worldly culture; the distilled
quintessence of all that is exquisitely elaborated by social art。
Polished as the high society of Paris may be; it does not approach
this;'36' compared with the court; it seems provincial。 It is said
that a hundred thousand roses are required to make an ounce of the
unique perfume used by Persian kings; such is this drawing…room; the
frail vial of crystal and gold containing the substance of a human
vegetation。 To fill it; a great aristocracy had to be transplanted to
a hot…house and become sterile in fruit and flowers; and then; in the
royal alembic; its pure sap is concentrated into a few drops of aroma。
The price is excessive; but only at this price can the most delicate
perfumes be manufactured。
IV。 EVERYDAY LIFE IN COURT。
The king's occupations。 … Rising in the morning; mass; dinner;
walks; hunting; supper; play; evening receptions。 … He is always on
parade and in company。
An operation of this kind absorbs him who undertakes it as well as
those who undergo it。 A nobility for useful purposes is not
transformed with impunity into a nobility for ornament;'37' one falls
himself into the ostentation which is substituted for action。 The king
has a court which he is compelled to maintain。 So much the worse if it
absorbs all his time; his intellect; his soul; the most valuable
portion of his active forces and the forces of the State。 To be the
master of a house is not an easy task; especially when five hundred
persons are to be entertained; one must necessarily pass one's life in
public and all the time being on exhibition。 Strictly speaking it is
the life of an actor who is on the stage the entire day。 To support
this load; and work besides; required the temperament of Louis XIV;
the vigor of his body; the extraordinary firmness of his nerves; the
strength of his digestion; and the regularity of his habits; his
successors who come after him grow weary or stagger under the same
load。 But they cannot throw it off; an incessant; daily performance is
inseparable from their position and it is imposed on them like a
heavy; gilded; ceremonial coat。 The king is expected to keep the
entire aristocracy busy; consequently to make a display of himself; to
pay back with his own person; at all hours; even the most private;
even on getting out of bed; and even in his bed。 In the morning; at
the hour named by himself beforehand;'38' the head valet awakens him;
five series of persons enter in turn to perform their duty; and;
〃although very large; there are days when the waiting…rooms can hardly
contain the crowd of courtiers。〃 … The first admittance is 〃l'entrée
familière;〃 consisting of the children of France; the princes and
princesses of the blood; and; besides these; the chief physician; the
chief surgeon and other serviceable persons。'39' Next; comes the
〃grande entrée;' which comprises the grand…chamberlain; the grand…
master and master of the wardrobe; the first gentlemen of the
bedchamber; the Ducs d'Orleans and de Penthièvre; some other highly
favored seigniors; the ladies of honor and in waiting of the queen;
Mesdames and other princesses; without enumerating barbers tailors and
various descriptions of valets。 Meanwhile spirits of wine are poured
on the king's hands from a service of plate; and he is then handed the
basin of holy water; he crosses himself and repeats a prayer。 Then he
gets out of bed before all these people and puts on his slippers。 The
grand…chamberlain and the first gentleman hand him his dressing…gown;
he puts this on and seats himself in the chair in which he is to put
on his clothes。 At this moment the door opens and a third group
enters; which is the 〃entrée des brevets;〃 the seigniors who compose
this enjoy; in addition; the precious privilege of assisting at the
〃petite coucher;〃 while; at the same moment there enters a detachment
of attendants; consisting of the physicians and surgeons in ordinary;
the intendants of the amusements; readers and others; and among the
latter those who preside over physical requirements; the publicity of
a royal life is so great that none of its functions can be exercised
without witnesses。 At the moment of the approach of the officers of
the wardrobe to dress him the first gentleman; notified by an usher;
advances to read to the king the names of the grandees who are waiting
at the door: this is the fourth entry called 〃la chambre;〃 and larger
than those preceding it; for; not to mention the cloak…bearers; gun…
bearers; rug…bearers and other valets it comprises most of the
superior officials; the grand…almoner; the almoners on duty; the
chaplain; the master of the oratory; the captain and major of the
body…guard; the colonel…general and major of the French guards; the
colonel of the king's regiment; the captain of the Cent Suisses; the
grand…huntsman; the grand wolf…huntsman; the grand…provost; the grand…
master and master of ceremonies; the first butler; the grand…master of
the pantry; the foreign ambassadors; the ministers and secretaries of
state; the marshals of France and most of the seigniors and prelates
of distinction。 Ushers place the ranks in order and; if necessary;
impose silence。 Meanwhile the king washes his hands and begins his
toilet。 Two pages remove his slippers; the grand…master of the
wardrobe draws off his night…shirt by the right arm; and the first
valet of the wardrobe by the left arm; and both of them hand it to an
officer of the wardrobe; whilst a valet of the wardrobe fetches the
shirt wrapped up in white taffeta。 Things have now reached the solemn
point; the culmination of the ceremony; the fifth entry has been
introduced; and; in a few moments; after the king has put his shirt
on; all that is left of those who are known; with other house hold
officers waiting in the gallery; complete the influx。 There is quite a
formality in regard to this shirt。 The honor of handing it is reserved
to the sons and grandsons of France; in default of these to the
princes of the blood or those legitimized; in their default to the
grand…chamberlain or to the first gentleman of the bedchamber ; … the
latter case; it must be observed; being very rare; the princes being
obliged to be present at the king's lever; as were the princesses at
that of the queen。'40' At last the shirt is presented and a valet
carries off the old one; the first valet of the wardrobe and the first
valet…de…chambre hold the fresh one; each by a right and left arm
respectively;'41' while two other valets; during this operation;
extend his dressing…gown in front of him to serve as a screen。 The
shirt is now on his back and the toilet commences。 A valet…de…chambre
supports a mirror before the king while two others on the two sides
light it up; if occasion requires; with flambeaux。 Valets of the
wardrobe fetch the rest of the attire; the grand…mast