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seigniors have their hotels in the capital; their entresol at

Versailles; and their pleasure…house within a circuit of twenty

leagues; if they visit their estates at long intervals; it is to hunt。

The fifteen hundred commendatory abbés and priors enjoy their

benefices as if they were so many remote farms。  The two thousand seven

hundred vicars and canons visit each other and dine out。  With the

exception of a few apostolic characters the one hundred and thirty…one

bishops stay at home as little as they can; nearly all of them being

nobles; all of them men of society; what could they do out of the

world; confined to a provincial town? Can we imagine a grand seignior;

once a gay and gallant abbé and now a bishop with a hundred thousand

livres income; voluntarily burying himself for the entire year at

Mende; at Comminges; in a paltry cloister? The interval has become too

great between the refined; varied and literary life of the great

center; and the monotonous; inert; practical life of the provinces。

Hence it is that the grand seignior who withdraws from the former

cannot enter into the latter; and he remains an absentee; at least in

feeling。



A country in which the heart ceases to impel the blood through its

veins presents a somber aspect。  Arthur Young; who traveled over France

between 1787 and 1789; is surprised to find at once such a vital

center and such dead extremities。  Between Paris and Versailles the

double file of vehicles going and coming extends uninterruptedly for

five leagues from morning till night。'33' The contrast on other roads

is very great。  Leaving Paris by the Orleans road; says Arthur Young;

〃we met not one stage or diligence for ten miles; only two messageries

and very few chaises; not a tenth of what would have been met had we

been leaving London at the same hour。〃 On the highroad near Narbonne;

〃for thirty…six miles;〃 he says; 〃I came across but one cabriolet;

half a dozen carts and a few women leading asses。〃 Elsewhere; near St。

Girons; he notices that in two hundred and fifty miles he encountered

in all; 〃two cabriolets and three miserable things similar to our old

one…horse post chaise; and not one gentleman。〃 Throughout this country

the inns are execrable; it is impossible to hire a wagon; while in

England; even in a town of fifteen hundred or two thousand

inhabitants; there are comfortable hotels and every means of

transport。  This proves that in France 〃there is no circulation。〃 It is

only in very large towns that there is any civilization and comfort。

At Nantes there is a superb theater 〃twice as large as Drury…Lane and

five times as magnificent。  Mon Dieu! I cried to myself; do all these

wastes; moors; and deserts; that I have passed for 300 miles lead to

this spectacle? 。  。  。  In a single leap you pass from misery to

extravagance; 。。。the country deserted; or if a gentleman in it; you

find him in some wretched hole to save that money which is lavished

with profusion in the luxuries of a capital。〃 〃A coach;〃 says M。 de

Montlosier; 〃set out weekly from the principal towns in the provinces

for Paris and was not always full; which tells us about the activity

in business。  There was a single journal called the Gazette de France;

appearing twice a week; which represents the activity of minds。〃'34'

Some magistrates of Paris in exile at Bourges in 1753 and 1754 give

the following picture of that place:




 〃A town in which no one can be found with whom you can talk at

your ease on any topic whatever; reasonably or sensibly。  The nobles;

three…fourths of them dying of hunger; rotting with pride of birth;

keeping apart from men of the robe and of finance; and finding it

strange that the daughter of a tax…collector; married to a counselor

of the parliament of Paris; should presume to be intelligent and

entertain company。  The citizens are of the grossest ignorance; the

sole support of this species of lethargy in which the minds of most of

the inhabitants are plunged。  Women; bigoted and pretentious; and much

given to play and to gallantry。〃'35'



In this impoverished and benumbed society; among these Messieurs

Thibaudeau; the counselor; and Harpin; the tax…collector; among these

vicomtes de Sotenville and Countesses d'Escarbagnas; lives the

Archbishop; Cardinal de Larochefoucauld; grand almoner to the king;

provided with four great abbeys; possessing five hundred thousand

livres income; a man of the world; generally an absentee; and when at

home; finding amusement in the embellishing of his gardens and palace;

in short; the golden pheasant of an aviary in a poultry yard of

geese。'36' Naturally there is an entire absence of political thought。

〃You cannot imagine;〃 says the manuscript; 〃a person more indifferent

to all public matters。〃 At a later period; in the very midst of events

of the gravest character; and which most nearly concern them; there is

the same apathy。  At Chateau…Thierry on the 4th of July; 1789;'37'

there is not a café in which a new paper can be found; there is but

one at Dijon; at Moulins; the 7th of August; 〃in the best café in the

town; where I found near twenty tables set for company; but as for a

newspaper I might as well have demanded an elephant。〃 Between

Strasbourg and Besan?on there is not a gazette。  At Besan?on there is

〃nothing but the Gazette de France; for which; this period; a man of

common sense would not give one sol; 。  。  。  and the Courier de l'Europe

a fortnight old; and well…dressed people are now talking of the news

of two or three weeks past; and plainly by their discourse know

nothing of what is passing。  At Clermont 〃I dined; or supped; five

times at the table d'h?te with from twenty to thirty merchants; trade

men; officers; etc。; and it is not easy for me to express the

insignificance; … the inanity of their conversation。  Scarcely any

politics are mentioned at a moment when every bosom ought to beat with

none but political sensations。  The ignorance or the stupidity of these

people must be absolutely incredible; not a week passes without their

country abounding with events'38' that are analyzed an debated by the

carpenters and blacksmiths of England。〃 The cause of this inertia is

manifest; interrogated on their opinions; all reply: 〃We are of the

provinces and we must wait to know what is going on in Paris。〃 Never

having acted; they do no know how to act。  But; thanks to this inertia;

they let themselves be driven。  The provinces form an immense stagnant

pond; which; by a terrible inundation; may be emptied exclusively on

one side; and suddenly; the fault lies with the engineers who failed

to provide it with either dikes or outlets。



Such is the languor or; rather; the prostration; into which local

life falls when the local chiefs deprive it of their presence; action

or sympathy。  I find only three or four grand seigniors taking a part

in it; practical philanthropists following the example of English

noblemen; the Duc d'Harcourt; who settles the lawsuits of his

peasants; the Duc de Larochefoucauld…Liancourt who establishes a model

farm on his domain; and a school of industrial pursuits for the

children of poor soldiers; and the Comte de Brienne; whose thirty

villages are to demand liberty of the Convention。'39' The rest; for

the most part liberals; content themselves with discussions on public

affairs and on political economy。  In fact; the difference in manners;

the separation of interests; the remoteness of ideas are so great that

contact between those most exempt from haughtiness and their immediate

tenantry is rare; and at long intervals。  Arthur Young; needing some

information at the house of the Duc de Larochefoucauld himself; the

steward is sent for。  〃At an English nobleman's; there would have been

three or four farmers asked to meet me; who would have dined with the

family amongst the ladies of the first rank。  I do not exaggerate when

I say that I have had this at least an hundred times in the fi

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