letters-第84章
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Tangiers contains a population of about twenty thousand souls； of which at least one…third are Jews： the Christian portion does not amount to about two hundred and fifty individuals； including the various consuls and their families。 These latter gentlemen enjoy considerable authority in the town； so much so that in all disputes between Moors and Christians they alone are the judges； and their decision is law； they are a very respectable body； being without one exception exceedingly well…bred gentlemanly individuals； and several of them； particularly Mr Hay； the British consul…general； possessed of high literary attainments。 They enjoy very large salaries from their respective governments； varying from ten to sixteen thousand dollars per annum； so that； as all the necessaries and indeed many of the luxuries of life may be obtained at a very cheap price at Tangiers； they live in a state of magnificence more akin to that of petty kings than consuls in general。 The most perfect harmony exists amongst them； and if； at any time； any little dispute occur between two or three of them； the rest instantly interfere and arrange matters； and they are invariably united to a man against the slightest infringement of their privileges and immunities on the part of the Moorish Government； and a slight or injury to one is instantly resented by all。 The duties of the greatest part of them are far from being onerous； more especially as each is provided with a vice…consul； who is also an exceedingly well…bred and very well…paid gentleman。 They pass the greatest part of their time in cultivating their delicious gardens； which； surrounded by hedges of KSOB； which is a species of gigantic reed； cover the hills in the vicinity of Tangiers。 Their houses； which are palace…looking buildings in the European taste and which contrast strangely with the mean huts of the Moors； are all surmounted by a flag…staff； which on gala days displays the banner of its respective nation。 It is curious then to gaze from the castle hill on the town below； twelve banners are streaming in the wind of the Levant； which blows here almost incessantly。 One is the bloody flag of the Moor； the natural master of the soil； but the eleven are of foreigners and Nazarenes； and are emblems of distant and different people。 There floats the meteor banner of England beside the dirty rags of Spain and Portugal。 There the pride of Naples； of Sardinia； and Sweden。 There the angry tricolor； and not far from it the most beautiful of all； the Dannebrog of Denmark； a white cross gleaming consolingly amidst blood and fire； as when first seen by Waldemar； neighbour to it the Austrian； there the Orange； and yonder； far remote from all； like the country； the stripes and stars of the United States。 Tangiers； with a Moorish and Jewish population； is not the city either of the Moor or the Jew： it is that of the consuls。
Were it possible for any unprejudiced and rational being to doubt for a moment that the religion of Mahomet is a false one and uncalculated to promote the moral and political improvement of mankind； a slight glance at this Mahometan country would be sufficient to undeceive him。 The Moors are the most fanatic of all Mahometans； and consider the Turks； Persians； and other followers of the Desert…Prophet； as seceders from the severe precepts of their religion。 What is their state？ They are governed in their towns and provinces by arbitrary despots called Pashas； who are accountable to no person but the Emperor； whose authority they frequently set at nought； and who is himself a despot of the most terrible description。 Their lives； properties； and families are perfectly at the disposal of these men； who decapitate； imprison； plunder； and violate as their inclination tempts them。 In this country it is every person's interest； however wealthy； to exhibit an appearance of abject poverty； as the suspicion of wealth instantly produces from the Sultan or Pasha a demand for some large sum； which must be forthwith paid or decapitation or torture are the severe alternatives。 Here justice is indeed an empty name； the most atrocious criminals escaping unpunished if able to offer a bribe sufficient to tempt the cupidity of those whose duty it is to administer it。 Here money is sought after with insatiable avidity by great and small； for its own sake； and not for what it will produce。 It is piled up in the treasury or is buried underground； according to the situation in life of its possessors。 In this land there is neither public peace or individual security； no one travels a league but at the extreme danger of his life； and war is continually raging not against foreign enemies but amongst the people themselves。 The Sultan collects armies and marches against this or that province； which is sure to be in a state of rebellion； if successful； a thousand heads are borne before him on his return in ghastly triumph on the lances of his warriors； and if vanquished； his own not unfrequently blackens in the sun above the gate of some town or village。 Here truth and good faith are utterly unknown； friendship exists not； nor kindly social intercourse； here pleasure is sought in the practice of abominations or in the chewing of noxious and intoxicating drugs； here men make a pomp and a parade of their infamy； and the cavalcade which escorts with jealous eye the wives and concubines of the potentate on a march or journey is also charged with the care of his ZAMMINS； the unfortunate youths who administer to his fouler passions。 Such is the moral； and the political state of Morocco！ Such are the fruits of a religion which is not that of the Bible。
The state of the Jews in this country is in every respect pitiable。 It is one of great thraldom； yet is nevertheless far superior to what it was previous to the accession of the present monarch Muley Abd al Rahman to the throne； before that period they enjoyed scarcely any of the rights of human beings； and were plundered； beaten； and maimed by the Moslems at pleasure。 As the Moors of Barbary are the most fanatic amongst the Mahometans； so are the Barbary Jews the most superstitious of their race； observing in the strictest manner the precepts of the Talmud and the sages。 A great many singular ceremonies and usages are to be found amongst them which are not observed by the Hebrews in any other part of the world； more especially at their wedding festivals which are carried on during a period of eleven days； during which the house which is open to all comers exhibits a continual scene of dancing； feasting； and revelry of every description。 There is much at these marriages which has served to remind me of those of the Gitanos of Spain at which I have been frequently present； especially the riot and waste practised； for like the Gitano； the Barbary Jew frequently spends during the days of his wedding not only all that he is possessed of； but becomes an embarrassed man for the rest of his life by the sums which he is compelled to borrow in order not to incur the opprobrium of appearing mean on so solemn an occasion。 The books current among them are the Bible with the commentaries of the rabbins； parts of the Mischna； and the prayers for all the year； likewise； but more rare； the Zohar； which all speak of with unbounded veneration； though few pretend to understand it。 I have not unfrequently seen at their synagogues the Bible Society's edition of the Psalms； and they appeared to prize it highly。
A market is held on every Thursday and Sunday morning beyond the walls of Tangiers in a place called the SOC DE BARRA or outward market…place。 Thither repair the Moors from the country； bringing with them corn； fruit and other articles； the productions of their fields and gardens for the consumption of the town。 It is my delight to visit this spot which is on the side of a hill； and sitting down on a stone to gaze。 What a singular scene presents itself to the view： a wild confusion of men and horses； of donkeys and camels； of countenances of all hues； swarthy and black； livid and pale； of turbans of all dyes； white； green and red
