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第49章

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 greater  difficulties; the ground being still more rugged and broken than  that which we had previously passed over。  My own horse rolled down  a precipice; and was much maimed; whilst that of the guide was so  worn out by the time he reached Gijon; four leagues from Oviedo;  that he foundered。  As for Antonio and myself; we arrived  barefooted and bleeding; for I need scarcely say that during all  this journey; which amounted at least to 130 miles; we went on  foot; the poor horses being scarcely able to carry our books and  baggage。

I am now by the blessing of the Almighty in the city of Oviedo; the  capital of the Asturias; although at an unpropitious season; for  the bray of war is at the gate; and there is the cry of the  captains and the shouting。  Castile is at the present time in the  hands of the Carlists; who have captured and plundered Valladolid;  in much the same manner as they did Segovia。  They are every day  expected to march on this place; in which case they will probably  experience an obstinate resistance; very excellent redoubts having  been erected; and several of the convents strongly fortified;  especially that of Santa Clara de la Vega。  All minds here are at  present in a state of feverish anxiety and suspense; more  especially as no intelligence at present arrives from Madrid; which  by the last accounts was beleaguered by the bands of Cabrera;  Palillos; and Orejita。 … But I am interrupted; and I lay down my  pen。

A strange adventure has just occurred to me。  I am in the ancient  town of Oviedo; in a very large; scantily furnished and remote room  of an ancient POSADA; formerly a palace of the Counts of Santa  Cruz。  It is past ten at night and the rain is descending in  torrents。  I ceased writing on hearing numerous footsteps ascending  the creaking stairs which lead to my apartment … the door was flung  open; and in walked nine men of tall stature; marshalled by a  little hunch…backed personage。  They were all muffled in the long  cloaks of Spain; but I instantly knew by their demeanour that they  were CABALLEROS; or gentlemen。  They placed themselves in a rank  before the table where I was sitting; suddenly and simultaneously  they all flung back their cloaks; and I perceived that every one  bore a book in his hand; a book which I knew full well。  After a  pause; which I was unable to break; for I sat lost in astonishment  and almost conceived myself to be visited by apparitions; the  hunch…back advancing somewhat before the rest said in soft silvery  tones:  'SENOR Cavalier; was it you who brought this book to the  Asturias?'  I now supposed that they were the civil authorities of  the place come to take me into custody; and rising from my seat I  exclaimed; 'It certainly was I; and it is my glory to have done so。   The book is the New Testament of God; I wish it was in my power to  bring a million。'  'I heartily wish so too;' said the little  personage with a sigh。  'Be under no apprehension; Sir Cavalier;  these gentlemen are my friends。  We have just purchased these books  in the shop where you have placed them for sale; and have taken the  liberty of calling upon you in order to return you our thanks for  the treasure you have brought us。  I hope you can furnish us with  the Old Testament also。'  I replied that I was sorry to inform him  that at present it was entirely out of my power to comply with his  wish; as I had no Old Testaments in my possession; but did not  despair of procuring some speedily; from England。  He then asked me  a great many questions concerning my Biblical travels in Spain; and  my success; and the views entertained by the Society in respect to  Spain; adding that he hoped I should pay particular attention to  the Asturias; which he assured me was the best ground in the  Peninsula for our labour。  After about half…an…hour's conversation;  he suddenly said in the English language; 'Good night; sir;'  wrapped his cloak around him; and walked out as he had come。  His  companions; who had hitherto not uttered a word; all repeated;  'Good night; sir;' and adjusting their cloaks followed him。

In order to explain this strange scene I must inform you that this  morning I visited the petty bookseller of the place; Longoria; and  having arranged preliminaries with him I sent him in the evening a  package of forty Testaments; all I possess; with some  advertisements。  At the time he assured me that; though he was  willing to undertake the sale; there was nevertheless not a  prospect of success; as a whole month had elapsed since he had sold  a book of any description; on account of the uncertainty of the  times and the poverty which pervaded the land。  I therefore sat  down to write this letter much dispirited; this incident has;  however; admonished me not to be cast down when things look  gloomiest; as the hand of the Lord is generally then most busy:   that men may learn to perceive that whatever good is accomplished  is not theirs but His。

I shall quit Oviedo in a few days; but whither I shall now direct  my course I have not determined。  It would be easy for me to reach  Santander; which is but thirty leagues 'distant' and the road  tolerably free from accidents; but the state of affairs at Madrid  gives me considerable uneasiness; for I remember that Madrid is the  depot of our books; and I am apprehensive that in the revolutions  and disturbances which at present seem to threaten it; our whole  stock may perish。  True it is that in order to reach Madrid I  should have to pass through the midst of the Carlist hordes; who  would perhaps slay or make me prisoner; but I am at present so much  accustomed to perilous adventure; and have hitherto experienced so  many fortunate escapes; that the dangers which infest the route  would not deter me a moment from venturing。  But there is no  certain intelligence; and Madrid may be in safety or on the brink  of falling; perhaps a few hours will inform us; when I shall at  once decide。  My next letter will therefore be either from  Santander or the capital of Spain。

Oviedo is picturesquely situated between two mountains; Morcin and  Naranco; the former is very high and ragged; and during the  greatest part of the year is covered with snow; the sides of the  latter are cultivated and planted with vines。  The town itself  possesses nothing very remarkable with the exception of the  cathedral; the tower of which is very high; and is perhaps the  purest specimen of Gothic architecture at present in existence。   The interior of the edifice is neat and appropriate but simple and  unadorned; for I observed but one picture; the Conversion of St。  Paul。  One of the chapels is a cemetery; in which rest the bones of  eleven Gothic kings; whose souls I trust in Christ have been  accepted。

I will now conclude in the words of Heber:


'From Greenland's icy mountains; From India's coral strand … Where Afric's sunny fountains Roll down the yellow sand … From many an ancient river; From many a palmy plain; They call us to deliver Their land from error's chain。'


Most truly yours;

G。 B。

P。S。 … Morning 'Sept。' 30th; twenty Testaments have been sold。



LETTER: 1st November; 1837



To the Rev。 A。 Brandram (ENDORSED: recd。 Nov。 13; 1837) MADRID; NOVR。 1; 1837。 CALLE SANTIAGO; No。 16 PISO 3RO。

REVD。 AND DEAR SIR; … In my last letter; from Oviedo in the  Asturias; I stated that my next would be dated either from  Santander or the capital of Spain。  I arrived yesterday at Madrid;  but I previously visited Santander; which I reached with my usual  good fortune; without accident; after a fatiguing journey of six  days。  When there; I found to my great sorrow that the two hundred  Testaments which I had ordered to be sent from Madrid were not  come; and I supposed that they had either been seized on the way by  the Carlists or that my letter had miscarried。 (2)  I then thought  of applying to England for a supply; but I abandoned the idea for  two reasons; first; that I should have to remain idly loitering at  Santander for at least a month before I could receive them … a  place where every article is so dear that my expenses with the  strictest economy would have amounted to nearly two pounds PER  DIEM; secondly; that I was v

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