letters-第49章
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greater difficulties; the ground being still more rugged and broken than that which we had previously passed over。 My own horse rolled down a precipice; and was much maimed; whilst that of the guide was so worn out by the time he reached Gijon; four leagues from Oviedo; that he foundered。 As for Antonio and myself; we arrived barefooted and bleeding; for I need scarcely say that during all this journey; which amounted at least to 130 miles; we went on foot; the poor horses being scarcely able to carry our books and baggage。
I am now by the blessing of the Almighty in the city of Oviedo; the capital of the Asturias; although at an unpropitious season; for the bray of war is at the gate; and there is the cry of the captains and the shouting。 Castile is at the present time in the hands of the Carlists; who have captured and plundered Valladolid; in much the same manner as they did Segovia。 They are every day expected to march on this place; in which case they will probably experience an obstinate resistance; very excellent redoubts having been erected; and several of the convents strongly fortified; especially that of Santa Clara de la Vega。 All minds here are at present in a state of feverish anxiety and suspense; more especially as no intelligence at present arrives from Madrid; which by the last accounts was beleaguered by the bands of Cabrera; Palillos; and Orejita。 … But I am interrupted; and I lay down my pen。
A strange adventure has just occurred to me。 I am in the ancient town of Oviedo; in a very large; scantily furnished and remote room of an ancient POSADA; formerly a palace of the Counts of Santa Cruz。 It is past ten at night and the rain is descending in torrents。 I ceased writing on hearing numerous footsteps ascending the creaking stairs which lead to my apartment … the door was flung open; and in walked nine men of tall stature; marshalled by a little hunch…backed personage。 They were all muffled in the long cloaks of Spain; but I instantly knew by their demeanour that they were CABALLEROS; or gentlemen。 They placed themselves in a rank before the table where I was sitting; suddenly and simultaneously they all flung back their cloaks; and I perceived that every one bore a book in his hand; a book which I knew full well。 After a pause; which I was unable to break; for I sat lost in astonishment and almost conceived myself to be visited by apparitions; the hunch…back advancing somewhat before the rest said in soft silvery tones: 'SENOR Cavalier; was it you who brought this book to the Asturias?' I now supposed that they were the civil authorities of the place come to take me into custody; and rising from my seat I exclaimed; 'It certainly was I; and it is my glory to have done so。 The book is the New Testament of God; I wish it was in my power to bring a million。' 'I heartily wish so too;' said the little personage with a sigh。 'Be under no apprehension; Sir Cavalier; these gentlemen are my friends。 We have just purchased these books in the shop where you have placed them for sale; and have taken the liberty of calling upon you in order to return you our thanks for the treasure you have brought us。 I hope you can furnish us with the Old Testament also。' I replied that I was sorry to inform him that at present it was entirely out of my power to comply with his wish; as I had no Old Testaments in my possession; but did not despair of procuring some speedily; from England。 He then asked me a great many questions concerning my Biblical travels in Spain; and my success; and the views entertained by the Society in respect to Spain; adding that he hoped I should pay particular attention to the Asturias; which he assured me was the best ground in the Peninsula for our labour。 After about half…an…hour's conversation; he suddenly said in the English language; 'Good night; sir;' wrapped his cloak around him; and walked out as he had come。 His companions; who had hitherto not uttered a word; all repeated; 'Good night; sir;' and adjusting their cloaks followed him。
In order to explain this strange scene I must inform you that this morning I visited the petty bookseller of the place; Longoria; and having arranged preliminaries with him I sent him in the evening a package of forty Testaments; all I possess; with some advertisements。 At the time he assured me that; though he was willing to undertake the sale; there was nevertheless not a prospect of success; as a whole month had elapsed since he had sold a book of any description; on account of the uncertainty of the times and the poverty which pervaded the land。 I therefore sat down to write this letter much dispirited; this incident has; however; admonished me not to be cast down when things look gloomiest; as the hand of the Lord is generally then most busy: that men may learn to perceive that whatever good is accomplished is not theirs but His。
I shall quit Oviedo in a few days; but whither I shall now direct my course I have not determined。 It would be easy for me to reach Santander; which is but thirty leagues 'distant' and the road tolerably free from accidents; but the state of affairs at Madrid gives me considerable uneasiness; for I remember that Madrid is the depot of our books; and I am apprehensive that in the revolutions and disturbances which at present seem to threaten it; our whole stock may perish。 True it is that in order to reach Madrid I should have to pass through the midst of the Carlist hordes; who would perhaps slay or make me prisoner; but I am at present so much accustomed to perilous adventure; and have hitherto experienced so many fortunate escapes; that the dangers which infest the route would not deter me a moment from venturing。 But there is no certain intelligence; and Madrid may be in safety or on the brink of falling; perhaps a few hours will inform us; when I shall at once decide。 My next letter will therefore be either from Santander or the capital of Spain。
Oviedo is picturesquely situated between two mountains; Morcin and Naranco; the former is very high and ragged; and during the greatest part of the year is covered with snow; the sides of the latter are cultivated and planted with vines。 The town itself possesses nothing very remarkable with the exception of the cathedral; the tower of which is very high; and is perhaps the purest specimen of Gothic architecture at present in existence。 The interior of the edifice is neat and appropriate but simple and unadorned; for I observed but one picture; the Conversion of St。 Paul。 One of the chapels is a cemetery; in which rest the bones of eleven Gothic kings; whose souls I trust in Christ have been accepted。
I will now conclude in the words of Heber:
'From Greenland's icy mountains; From India's coral strand … Where Afric's sunny fountains Roll down the yellow sand … From many an ancient river; From many a palmy plain; They call us to deliver Their land from error's chain。'
Most truly yours;
G。 B。
P。S。 … Morning 'Sept。' 30th; twenty Testaments have been sold。
LETTER: 1st November; 1837
To the Rev。 A。 Brandram (ENDORSED: recd。 Nov。 13; 1837) MADRID; NOVR。 1; 1837。 CALLE SANTIAGO; No。 16 PISO 3RO。
REVD。 AND DEAR SIR; … In my last letter; from Oviedo in the Asturias; I stated that my next would be dated either from Santander or the capital of Spain。 I arrived yesterday at Madrid; but I previously visited Santander; which I reached with my usual good fortune; without accident; after a fatiguing journey of six days。 When there; I found to my great sorrow that the two hundred Testaments which I had ordered to be sent from Madrid were not come; and I supposed that they had either been seized on the way by the Carlists or that my letter had miscarried。 (2) I then thought of applying to England for a supply; but I abandoned the idea for two reasons; first; that I should have to remain idly loitering at Santander for at least a month before I could receive them … a place where every article is so dear that my expenses with the strictest economy would have amounted to nearly two pounds PER DIEM; secondly; that I was v