letters-第47章
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branches； it continued for some time； and died gradually away。
I continued my road； musing on what had just occurred and forming conjectures as to the cause。 The lightning resumed its flashing； and I saw that I was approaching tall black mountains … But I will omit further particulars of this midnight journey。
'QUIEN VIVE；' roared a voice about an hour from this time； for I had at last groped my way to Villafranca。 It proceeded from the sentry at the suburb； one of those singular half soldiers； half GUERILLAS； called Miguelets； who are in general employed by the Spanish Government to clear the roads of robbers。 I gave the usual answer 'ESPANA；' and went up to the place where he stood。 After a little conversation； I sat down on a stone； awaiting the arrival of Antonio； who was long in making his appearance。 On his arrival I asked him if any one had passed him on the road； but he replied that he had seen nothing。 The night； or rather morning； was still very dark； though a small corner of the moon was occasionally visible。 On our enquiring the way to the gate； the Miguelet directed us down a street to the left； which we followed。 The street was steep； we could see no gate； and our progress was soon stopped by houses and wall。 We knocked at the gates of two or three of these houses （in the upper stories of which lights were burning） for the purpose of being set right； but we were either disregarded or not heard。 A horrid squalling of cats from the tops of the houses and dark corners saluted our ears； and I thought of the night…arrival of Don Quixote and his squire at Tobosa； and their vain search amongst the deserted streets for the palace of Dulcinea。 At length we saw light and heard voices in a cottage at the further side of a kind of ditch。 Leading the horses over； we called at the door； which was opened by an aged man； who appeared by his dress to be a baker； as indeed he proved； which accounted for his being up at so late an hour。 On begging him to show us the way into the town； he led us up a very narrow alley at the end of his cottage； saying that he would likewise conduct us to the POSADA。 The alley led directly to what appeared to be the market… place； at a corner house of which our guide stopped and knocked。 After a long pause an upper window was opened； and a female voice demanded who we were。 The old man replied that two travellers had arrived who were in need of lodging。 'I cannot be disturbed at this time of night；' said the woman； 'they will be wanting supper； and there is nothing in the house； they must go elsewhere。' She was going to shut the window； but I cried that we wanted no supper； but merely a resting…place for ourselves and horses； that we had come that day from Astorga； and were dying with fatigue。 'Who is that speaking？' cried the woman。 'Surely that is the voice of Gil； the German clock…maker from Pontevedra。 Welcome； old companion； you are come at the right time； for my own is out of order。 I am sorry I kept you waiting； but I will admit you in a moment。'
The window was slammed to； presently light shone through the crevices if the door； a key turned in the lock； and we were admitted。
LETTER： 19th August； 1837
To the Rev。 A。 Brandram （ENDORSED： recd。 Sept。 11； 1837） SAINT JAMES （SANTIAGO） OF COMPOSTELLA； 19TH AUG。 ＇1837＇。
REVD。 AND DEAR SIR； … I left Corunna about ten days since for this town； travelling with the courier or weekly post； who was escorted by a strong party of soldiers in consequence of the distracted state of the country。 Nothing particular worth relating occurred during the journey； which occupied a day and a half； though the distance is barely ten leagues。 Santiago； or Saint James； is； as you are aware； the capital of Galicia； and the residence of the Metropolitan。 It is； or was； the most celebrated resort for pilgrims in the whole world； with the exception of Jerusalem； as it is said to contain the bones of Saint James the Elder； the Child of the Thunder； who according to the legend of the Roman Church first preached the Gospel in Spain。 The cathedral； though built at various periods and by no means uniform； is a majestic； venerable edifice； in every respect calculated to excite awe and admiration； indeed it is almost impossible to walk its long dusky aisles and hear the solemn music and the noble chanting and inhale the incense of the mighty censers； which are at times swung so high by machinery that they smite the vaulted roof； whilst gigantic tapers glitter here and there amongst the gloom from the shrine of many a saint； before which the worshippers are kneeling； breathing forth their prayers and petitions for help； love； and mercy； and entertain a doubt that we are treading the floor of a house where God delighteth to dwell。 Yet the Lord is distant from that house。 He heareth not； He seeth not： or； if He hear and see； it is with anger。 What availeth that solemn music； that noble chanting； that incense of sweet savour？ What availeth kneeling before that grand altar of silver； surmounted by that figure with its silver hat and breastplate； the emblem of one who； although an Apostle and Confessor； was at best an unprofitable servant？ What availeth hoping for remission of sin by trusting in the merits of him who possessed none； or by paying homage to others who were born and nurtured in sin； and who alone by the exercise of a lively faith granted from above could hope to preserve themselves from the wrath of the Almighty？ Yet such acts and formalities constitute what is termed religion at Compostella； where； perhaps； God and His will are less known and respected than at Pekin or amid the wildernesses where graze the coursers of the Mongol and the Mandchou。 Perhaps there is no part of Spain where the Romish religion is so cherished as throughout Galicia。 In no part of Spain are the precepts and ordinances of that Church； especially fasting and confession； so strictly observed； and its ministers regarded with so much respect and deference。 The natural conclusion therefore would be that； if the religion of Rome be the same as that founded by Christ； the example of the Saviour is more closely followed； and the savage and furious passions more bridled； bloodshed and rapine less frequent； unchastity and intemperance less apparent； and the minds of the people more enlightened and free from the mists of superstition in Galicia than in other provinces。
What is the fact？ Almost every road is teeming with banditti； who under the name of Carlists plunder friend and foe； and to robbery join cruelty so atrociously horrible that indignation at the crime is frequently lost in wonder； for the Galician robbers are seldom satisfied with booty； and unlike their brethren in other parts generally mutilate or assassinate those who are so unfortunate as to fall in their hands； prostitution is carried on to an enormous extent； and although loathsome concustant ＇sic＇ diseases stare the stranger in the face in the street； in the market…place； in the church； and at the fountain； 'Drunken as a Galician' is a proverb； and superstitions forgotten； abandoned in the rest of Spain； are clung to here with surprising pertinacity； the clergy exerting themselves to uphold them by carrying on a very extensive sale in charms； verifying the old saying； 'Witches are found where friars abound。'
An unhappy man； whilst collecting vipers amongst the hills； which he was in the practice of selling to the apothecaries； was lately met near Orense by some of these monsters。 Having plundered and stripped him； they tied his hands behind him and thrust his head into the sack； which contained several of these horrible reptiles alive！ They then fastened the sack at the mouth round his neck； and having feasted their ears for a time with his cries； they abandoned him to his fate。 The poor wretch； stung by the vipers in the face and eyes； presently became mad and ran through several villages； till he fell dead。
I am now in the heart of this strange country and people。 It has pleased the Lord to bless my humble endeavours more than I had reason to expect； since
