letters-第46章
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summits; till it was lost in interminable space。 Other flashes and peals succeeded; but slight in comparison; and a few drops of rain; the body of the tempest seemed to be over another region。 'A hundred families are weeping where that bolt fell;' said the peasant; when I rejoined him; 'for its blaze has blinded my mule at six leagues' distance。' He was leading the animal by the bridle; as its sight was evidently affected。 'Were the friars still in their nest above there;' he continued; 'I should say that this was their doing; for they are the cause of all the miseries of the land。'
I raised my eyes in the direction in which he pointed。 Half…way up the mountain over whose foot we were wending jutted forth a black; frightful crag; which at an immense altitude overhung the road and seemed to threaten destruction。 It resembled one of those ledges of the rocky mountains in the picture of the deluge; up to which the terrified fugitives have scrambled from the eager pursuit of the savage and tremendous billow; down on which they are gazing in horror; whilst above them rise still higher and giddier heights to which they seem unable to climb。 Built on the very rim of this crag stood an edifice; seemingly devoted to the purposes of religion; as I could discern the spire of a church rearing itself high over wall and roof。 'That is the house of 〃The Virgin of the Rocks;〃' said the peasant; 'and it was lately full of friars; but they have been driven out; and the only inmates now are owls and ravens。' I replied that their life in such a bleak exposed abode could not have been very enviable; as in winter they must have incurred great risk of perishing with cold。 'By no means;' said he; 'they had the best of wood for their BRASEROS and chimneys; and the best of wine to warm them at their meals; which were not the most sparing; moreover they had another convent down in the vale yonder; to which they could retire at their pleasure。' I asked him the reason of his antipathy to the friars; to which he replied that he had been their vassal; and that they had deprived him every year of the flower of what he possessed。 Discoursing in this manner we reached a village just below the convent; where he left me; having first pointed out to me a house of stone with an image over the door; which he said once also belonged to the CANALLA (rabble) above。
The sun was setting fast; and; eager to reach Villafranca; where I had determined on resting and which was still distant three leagues and a half; I made no halt at this place。 The road was now down a rapid and crooked descent which terminated in a valley; at the bottom of which was a long and narrow bridge。 Beneath it rolled a river descending from a wide pass between two mountains; for the chain was here cleft probably by some convulsion of nature。 I looked up the pass and on the hills on both sides。 Far above on my right; but standing out bold and clear; and catching the last rays of the sun; was 'the Convent of the Precipices'; whilst directly over against it; on the further side of the valley; rose the perpendicular side of the rival hill which; to a considerable extent intercepting the light; flung its black shadow over the upper end of the pass; involving it in mysterious darkness。 Emerging from the centre of this gloom with thundering sound dashed a river; white with foam and bearing along with it huge stones and branches of trees; for it was the wild Sil; probably at that 'time' swollen by the recent rains; which I now saw hurrying to the ocean from its cradle in the heart of the Asturian hills。 Its fury; its roar; and the savage grandeur of the surrounding scenery which was worthy of the pencil of Salvator recalled to my mind the powerful lines of Stolberg addressed to a mountain torrent …
'The pine…trees are shaken; they yield to thy shocks; And; crashing; they tumble in wild disarray; The rocks fly before thee … thou seizest the rocks And whirlst them; like pebbles; contemptuous away。'
Hours again passed away。 It was now night; and we were in the midst of woodlands; feeling our way; for the darkness was so great that I could scarcely see the length of a yard before my horse's head。 The animal seemed uneasy; and would frequently stop short; prick up his ears; and utter a low mournful whine。 Flashes of sheet…lightning frequently illumed the black sky and flung a momentary glare over our path。 No sound interrupted the stillness of the night save the slow tramp of the horses' hoofs; and occasionally the croaking of frogs from some pool or morass。 I now bethought me that I was in Spain; the chosen land of the two fiends; assassination and plunder; and how easily two tired unarmed wanderers might become their victims。 We at last cleared the woodlands; and after proceeding a short distance the horse gave a joyous neigh and broke into a smart trot。 A barking of dogs speedily reached my ears; and we seemed to be approaching some town or village。 In effect we were close to Cacabelos; a town about five miles distant from Villafranca。
It was now near eleven at night; and I reflected that it would be far more expedient to tarry in this place till the morning than to attempt at present to reach Villafranca; exposing ourselves to all the horrors of darkness in a lonely and unknown road。 My mind was soon made up on this point … but I determined without my hosts; for at the first POSADA which I attempted to enter I was told that we could not be accommodated; and particularly our horses; as the stable was full of water。 At the second (there were but two); I was answered from the window by a gruff voice nearly in the words of Scripture: 'Trouble me not; the gate is already locked; and my servants are also with me in bed; I cannot arise to let you in。' Indeed we had no particular desire to enter; as it appeared a wretched hovel; though the poor horses pawed piteously against the door; and seemed to crave admittance。
We had now no choice but to resume our doleful way to Villafranca; which we were told was a short league distant; though it proved a league and a half。 We however found it no easy matter to quit the town; for we were bewildered amongst its labyrinths and could not find the outlet。 A lad about eighteen was; however; persuaded by the promise of a PESETA to guide us; whereupon he led us by many turnings to a bridge which he told us to cross and to follow the road; which was that of Villafranca; he then; having received his fee; hastened from us。
We followed his directions; not; however; without a suspicion that he might be deceiving us。 The night had settled darker down upon us; so that it was impossible to distinguish any object; however nigh。 The lightning had become more faint and rare。 We heard the rustling of trees and occasionally the barking of dogs; which last sound; however; soon ceased; and we were in the midst of night and silence。 My horse; either from weariness or the badness of the road; frequently stumbled; whereupon I dismounted; and leading him by the bridle; soon left my companion far in the rear。 I had proceeded in this manner a considerable way when a circumstance occurred of a character well suited to the time and place。
I was again amidst trees and bushes; when the horse; stopping short; nearly pulled me back。 I know not how it was; but fear suddenly came over me; which; though in darkness and in solitude; I had not felt before。 I was about to urge the animal forward; when I heard a noise at my right hand; and listened attentively。 It seemed to be that of a person or persons forcing their way through branches and brushwood。 It soon ceased; and I heard feet on the road。 It was the short; staggering kind of tread of people carrying a very heavy substance; nearly too much for their strength; and I thought I 'heard' the hurried breathing of men over…fatigued。 There was a short pause in the middle of the road; then the stamping recommenced until it reached the other side; when I again heard a similar rustling amidst branches; it continued for some time; and died gradually away。
I continued my road; musing on w