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第46章

letters-第46章

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summits;  till it was lost in interminable space。  Other flashes and peals  succeeded; but slight in comparison; and a few drops of rain; the  body of the tempest seemed to be over another region。  'A hundred  families are weeping where that bolt fell;' said the peasant; when  I rejoined him; 'for its blaze has blinded my mule at six leagues'  distance。'  He was leading the animal by the bridle; as its sight  was evidently affected。  'Were the friars still in their nest above  there;' he continued; 'I should say that this was their doing; for  they are the cause of all the miseries of the land。'

I raised my eyes in the direction in which he pointed。  Half…way up  the mountain over whose foot we were wending jutted forth a black;  frightful crag; which at an immense altitude overhung the road and  seemed to threaten destruction。  It resembled one of those ledges  of the rocky mountains in the picture of the deluge; up to which  the terrified fugitives have scrambled from the eager pursuit of  the savage and tremendous billow; down on which they are gazing in  horror; whilst above them rise still higher and giddier heights to  which they seem unable to climb。  Built on the very rim of this  crag stood an edifice; seemingly devoted to the purposes of  religion; as I could discern the spire of a church rearing itself  high over wall and roof。  'That is the house of 〃The Virgin of the  Rocks;〃' said the peasant; 'and it was lately full of friars; but  they have been driven out; and the only inmates now are owls and  ravens。'  I replied that their life in such a bleak exposed abode  could not have been very enviable; as in winter they must have  incurred great risk of perishing with cold。  'By no means;' said  he; 'they had the best of wood for their BRASEROS and chimneys; and  the best of wine to warm them at their meals; which were not the  most sparing; moreover they had another convent down in the vale  yonder; to which they could retire at their pleasure。'  I asked him  the reason of his antipathy to the friars; to which he replied that  he had been their vassal; and that they had deprived him every year  of the flower of what he possessed。  Discoursing in this manner we  reached a village just below the convent; where he left me; having  first pointed out to me a house of stone with an image over the  door; which he said once also belonged to the CANALLA (rabble)  above。

The sun was setting fast; and; eager to reach Villafranca; where I  had determined on resting and which was still distant three leagues  and a half; I made no halt at this place。  The road was now down a  rapid and crooked descent which terminated in a valley; at the  bottom of which was a long and narrow bridge。  Beneath it rolled a  river descending from a wide pass between two mountains; for the  chain was here cleft probably by some convulsion of nature。  I  looked up the pass and on the hills on both sides。  Far above on my  right; but standing out bold and clear; and catching the last rays  of the sun; was 'the Convent of the Precipices'; whilst directly  over against it; on the further side of the valley; rose the  perpendicular side of the rival hill which; to a considerable  extent intercepting the light; flung its black shadow over the  upper end of the pass; involving it in mysterious darkness。   Emerging from the centre of this gloom with thundering sound dashed  a river; white with foam and bearing along with it huge stones and  branches of trees; for it was the wild Sil; probably at that 'time'  swollen by the recent rains; which I now saw hurrying to the ocean  from its cradle in the heart of the Asturian hills。  Its fury; its  roar; and the savage grandeur of the surrounding scenery which was  worthy of the pencil of Salvator recalled to my mind the powerful  lines of Stolberg addressed to a mountain torrent …


'The pine…trees are shaken; they yield to thy shocks; And; crashing; they tumble in wild disarray; The rocks fly before thee … thou seizest the rocks And whirlst them; like pebbles; contemptuous away。'


Hours again passed away。  It was now night; and we were in the  midst of woodlands; feeling our way; for the darkness was so great  that I could scarcely see the length of a yard before my horse's  head。  The animal seemed uneasy; and would frequently stop short;  prick up his ears; and utter a low mournful whine。  Flashes of  sheet…lightning frequently illumed the black sky and flung a  momentary glare over our path。  No sound interrupted the stillness  of the night save the slow tramp of the horses' hoofs; and  occasionally the croaking of frogs from some pool or morass。  I now  bethought me that I was in Spain; the chosen land of the two  fiends; assassination and plunder; and how easily two tired unarmed  wanderers might become their victims。  We at last cleared the  woodlands; and after proceeding a short distance the horse gave a  joyous neigh and broke into a smart trot。  A barking of dogs  speedily reached my ears; and we seemed to be approaching some town  or village。  In effect we were close to Cacabelos; a town about  five miles distant from Villafranca。

It was now near eleven at night; and I reflected that it would be  far more expedient to tarry in this place till the morning than to  attempt at present to reach Villafranca; exposing ourselves to all  the horrors of darkness in a lonely and unknown road。  My mind was  soon made up on this point … but I determined without my hosts; for  at the first POSADA which I attempted to enter I was told that we  could not be accommodated; and particularly our horses; as the  stable was full of water。  At the second (there were but two); I  was answered from the window by a gruff voice nearly in the words  of Scripture:  'Trouble me not; the gate is already locked; and my  servants are also with me in bed; I cannot arise to let you in。'   Indeed we had no particular desire to enter; as it appeared a  wretched hovel; though the poor horses pawed piteously against the  door; and seemed to crave admittance。

We had now no choice but to resume our doleful way to Villafranca;  which we were told was a short league distant; though it proved a  league and a half。  We however found it no easy matter to quit the  town; for we were bewildered amongst its labyrinths and could not  find the outlet。  A lad about eighteen was; however; persuaded by  the promise of a PESETA to guide us; whereupon he led us by many  turnings to a bridge which he told us to cross and to follow the  road; which was that of Villafranca; he then; having received his  fee; hastened from us。

We followed his directions; not; however; without a suspicion that  he might be deceiving us。  The night had settled darker down upon  us; so that it was impossible to distinguish any object; however  nigh。  The lightning had become more faint and rare。  We heard the  rustling of trees and occasionally the barking of dogs; which last  sound; however; soon ceased; and we were in the midst of night and  silence。  My horse; either from weariness or the badness of the  road; frequently stumbled; whereupon I dismounted; and leading him  by the bridle; soon left my companion far in the rear。  I had  proceeded in this manner a considerable way when a circumstance  occurred of a character well suited to the time and place。

I was again amidst trees and bushes; when the horse; stopping  short; nearly pulled me back。  I know not how it was; but fear  suddenly came over me; which; though in darkness and in solitude; I  had not felt before。  I was about to urge the animal forward; when  I heard a noise at my right hand; and listened attentively。  It  seemed to be that of a person or persons forcing their way through  branches and brushwood。  It soon ceased; and I heard feet on the  road。  It was the short; staggering kind of tread of people  carrying a very heavy substance; nearly too much for their  strength; and I thought I 'heard' the hurried breathing of men  over…fatigued。  There was a short pause in the middle of the road;  then the stamping recommenced until it reached the other side; when  I again heard a similar rustling amidst branches; it continued for  some time; and died gradually away。

I continued my road; musing on w

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