letters-第45章
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to heaven； and finally conducted him to the dominions of the Giant Despair。
NO HAY ATAJO SIN TRABAJO。
'There is no short cut Without some deep rut。'
says the Spanish proverb。
We now began to descend the valley by a broad and excellent CARRETERA； or carriage road； which was cut out of the steep side of the mountain on our right。 On our left was the gorge； down which tumbled the run of water which I have before mentioned。 The road was tortuous； and at every turn the scene became more picturesque。 The gorge gradually widened； and the brook at its bottom； fed by a multitude of springs； ＇grew＇ more considerable； but it was soon far beneath us； pursuing its headlong course till it reached level ground； where it flowed in the midst of a beautiful but confined prairie。 There was something silvan and savage in the mountains on the further side； clad from foot to pinnacle with trees； so closely growing that the eye was unable to obtain a glimpse of the hill… sides which were uneven with ravines and gulleys； the haunts of the wolf； the wild boar and the CORSO or mountain…stag； the last of which； as I was informed by a peasant who was driving a car of oxen； frequently descended to feed in the prairie and were shot for the sake of their skins； for the flesh being strong and disagreeable is held at no account。 But notwithstanding the wildness of these regions； the handiworks of man were visible。 The sides of the gorge though precipitous were yellow with little fields of barley； and we saw a hamlet and church down in the prairie below； whilst merry songs ascended to our ears from where the mowers were toiling with their scythes； cutting the luxuriant and abundant grass。 I could scarcely believe that I was in Spain； in general so brown； so arid and cheerless； and I almost fancied myself in Greece； in that land of ancient glory； whose mountain and forest scenery Theocritus has so well described。
At the bottom of the valley we entered a small village washed by the brook； which had now swelled almost to a stream。 A more romantic situation I had never witnessed。 It was surrounded and almost overhung by huge mountains； and embowered in trees of various kinds； waters sounded； nightingales sang； and the cuckoo's full note boomed from the distant branches； but the village was miserable。 The huts were built of slate…stones； of which the neighbouring hills seemed to be principally composed； and roofed with the same； but not in the neat tidy manner of English houses； for the slates were of all sizes； and seemed to be flung on in confusion。 We were spent with heat and thirst； and sitting down on a stone bench I entreated a woman to give us a little water。 The woman said she would； but added that she expected to be paid for it。 My Greek on hearing this burst into horrid execrations； and speaking Greek； Turkish and Spanish invoked the vengeance of the PANHAGIA on the heartless woman； saying 'If I were to offer a Mahometan gold for a draught of water； he would dash it in my face； and you are a Catholic with the stream running at your door。' I told him to be silent； and giving the woman two CUARTOS repeated my request； whereupon she took a pitcher； and； going to the stream； filled it with water。 It tasted muddy and disagreeable； but it drowned the fever which was devouring me。
We again mounted and proceeded on our way； which for a considerable distance lay along the margin of the stream； which now fell in small cataracts； now brawled over stones； and at other times ran dark and silent through deep pools overhung with tall willows … pools which seemed to abound with the finny tribe； for huge trout frequently sprang from the water catching the brilliant fly which skimmed along its deceitful surface。 How delightful！ The sun was rolling high in the firmament； casting from its girdle of fire the most glorious rays； so that the atmosphere was flickering with their splendour； but their fierceness was either warded off by the shadow of the trees or rendered innocuous either by the refreshing coolness which rose from the waters or by the gentle breezes which murmured at intervals over the meadows 'fanning the cheek or raising the hair' of the wanderer。 The hills gradually receded； till at last we entered a plain where tall grass was undulating； and mighty chestnut…trees in full blossom spread their giant and umbrageous boughs。 Beneath many stood cars； the tired oxen prostrate on the ground； the cross…bar of the pole which they support pressing heavily on their heads； whilst their drivers were either employed in cooking or were enjoying a delicious SIESTA in the grass and shade。 I went up to one of the largest of these groups and demanded of the individuals whether they were in need of the Testament of Jesus Christ。 They stared at one another and then at me； till at last a young man who was dandling a long gun in his hands as he reclined demanded of me what it was； at the same time enquiring whether I was a Catalan； 'for you speak hoarse；' said he； 'and are tall and fair like that family。' I sat down amongst them and said I was no Catalan； but I came from a spot in the western sea many leagues distant to sell that book at half the price it cost； and that their souls' welfare depended upon their being acquainted with it。 I then explained to them the nature of the New Testament and read to them the Parable of the Sower。 They stared at each other again； but said that they were poor and could not buy books。 I rose； mounted； and was going away； saying to them： 'Peace bide with you。' Whereupon the young man with the gun rose； and saying； 'CASPITA！ this is odd；' snatched the book from my hand； and gave me the price I had demanded。
Perhaps the whole world might be searched in vain for a spot whose natural charms could rival those of this plain or valley of Bembibre； with its wall of mighty mountains； its spreading chestnut…trees； and its groves of oaks and willows which clothe the banks of its stream； a tributary to the Minho。 True it is that when I passed through it the candle of heaven was blazing in full splendour； and everything lighted by its rays looked gay； glad and blessed。 Whether it would have filled me with the same feelings of admiration if viewed beneath another sky I will not pretend to determine； but it certainly possessed advantages which at no time could fail to delight； for it exhibited all the peaceful beauties of an English landscape blended with something wild and grand； and I thought within myself that he must be a restless dissatisfied man who born amongst those scenes would wish to quit them。 At the time I would have desired no better fate than that of a shepherd on the prairies or a hunter on the hills of Bembibre。
Three hours passed away； and we were in another situation。 We had halted and refreshed ourselves and horses at Bembibre； a village of mud and slate； and which possessed little to attract attention。 We were now ascending； for the road was over one of the extreme ledges of those frontier hills which I have before so often mentioned； but the aspect of heaven had blackened； clouds were rolling rapidly from the west over the mountains； and a cold wind was moaning dismally。 'There is a storm travelling through the air；' said a peasant； whom we overtook mounted on a wretched mule； 'and the Asturians had better be on the look…out； for it is speeding in their direction。' He had scarce spoken when a light so vivid and dazzling that it seemed the whole lustre of the fiery element was concentrated therein broke around us； filling the whole atmosphere； and covering rock； tree and mountain with a glare indescribable。 The mule of the peasant tumbled prostrate； while the horse I rode reared himself perpendicularly； and turning round dashed down the hill at headlong speed which for some time it was impossible to check。 The lightning was followed by a peal almost as terrible； but distant； for it sounded hollow and deep； the hills； however； caught up its voice； seemingly pitching it along their summits； till it was lost in interminable space。 Other flashes and peals succeeded； but slight in
