letters-第43章
按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
In about a fortnight I shall depart for Santiago； where I intend to pass several days； then retracing my steps to Corunna I shall visit Ferrol； whence I shall perhaps shape my course for Oviedo in the Asturias； either along the seashore or by the mountain route； in which latter case I should have to revisit Lugo。 Every part of Galicia abounds with robbers and factious； so that almost all travelling is at an end； and the road to Santiago is so bad that no one is permitted to travel it unless in company with the weekly post； which goes attended by a strong military escort。 This gives me some uneasiness； as the stallion I ride is so vicious and furious that it is dangerous to bring him in contact with other horses whom； with the exception of his companion； he invariably attacks； getting me into all manner of scrapes。 An old Castilian peasant； whose pony he had maltreated； once said to me； 'Sir Cavalier； if you have any love for yourself； get rid of that beast； who is capable of proving the ruin of a kingdom。' But he is a gallant creature who seldom tires； and he has borne me too far to permit me to think of parting with him。
Since my arrival at Corunna I have received advice from my agent at Valladolid that the forty copies which I deposited in his hands have been sold； and that he was anxious for a fresh supply。 I have accordingly ordered fifty more to be sent him from Madrid。 Since my departure from the capital I have myself disposed of sixty…five； without including those sold at Lugo and other places by means of the advertisements； on which I principally rely； as they speak at all times whether I am present or absent。
I wish it to be distinctly understood that throughout my journey I have given away none of the books； having invariably received money for them； viz。； from 10 to 12 REALS。 The enemies of the Bible Society have stated in several publications that it has no vent for the Bibles and Testaments which it publishes in many foreign languages but by sending them to the various countries； and there distributing them gratis or selling them by auction； when they are bought for waste paper （see in particular Wiseman's LETTERS）。 My conduct in this point has been principally influenced by a desire to give； in the case of Spain at least； the direct lie to this assertion； and this conduct I shall pursue until I receive direct orders to abandon it。 I will now conclude by repeating that in a few days you will receive my journal； which will prove more interesting than the above hasty scrawl。
I remain； etc。；
G。 BORROW。
LETTER： Undated
To the Rev。 Andrew Brandram （ENDORSED： recd。 Aug。 23； 1837） JOURNEY FROM ASTORGA TO LUGO
Before proceeding to narrate what befell me in this journey； it will perhaps not be amiss to say a few words concerning Astorga and its vicinity。 It is a walled town containing about five or six thousand inhabitants； with a cathedral and college； which last is； however； at present deserted。 It is situated on the confines； and may be called the capital； of a tract of land called the country of the Maragatos； which occupies about three square leagues； and has for its north…western boundary a mountain called Telleno； the loftiest of a chain of hills which have their origin near the mouth of the river Minho； and are connected with the immense range which constitutes the frontier of the Asturias and Guipuscoa。 The land is ungrateful and barren； and niggardly repays the toil of the cultivator； being for the most part rocky； with a slight sprinkling of a red bricky earth。 The Maragatos are perhaps the most singular caste to be found amongst the chequered population of Spain。 They have their own peculiar customs and dress； and never intermarry with the Spaniards。 Their name is a clue to their origin； as it signifies 'Moorish Goths；' and at this present day their garb differs but little from that of the Moors of Barbary； as it consists of a long tight jacket； secured at the waist by a broad girdle； loose short trowsers which terminate at the knee； and boots and gaiters。 Their heads are shaven； a slight fringe of hair being only left at the lower part。 If they wore the turban； or barret； they could scarcely be distinguished from the Moors in dress； but in lieu thereof they wear the sombrero or broad slouching hat of Spain。 There can be little doubt that they are a remnant of those Goths who sided with the Moors on their invasion of Spain； and who adopted their religion； customs； and manner of dress； which； with the exception of the first； are still to a considerable degree retained。 It is； however； evident that their blood has at no time mingled with that of the wild children of the desert； for scarcely amongst the hills of Norway would you find figures and faces more essentially Gothic than those of the Maragatos。 They are strong； athletic men； but loutish and heavy； and their features； though for the most part well…formed； are vacant and devoid of expression。 They are slow and plain in speech； and those eloquent and imaginative sallies so common in the conversation of other Spaniards seldom or never escape them； they have； moreover； a coarse； thick pronunciation； and when you hear them speak； you almost imagine that it is some German or English peasant attempting to express himself in the language of the Peninsula。 They are constitutionally phlegmatic； and it is very difficult to arouse their anger； but they are dangerous and desperate when once incensed； and a person who knew them well told me that he would rather face ten Valencians； people infamous for their ferocity and blood…thirstiness； than confront one angry Maragato； sluggish and stupid though he be on other occasions。
The men scarcely ever occupy themselves in husbandry； which they abandon to the females； who plough the flinty fields and gather in the scanty harvests。 Their husbands and sons are far differently employed； for they are a nation of ARRIEROS or carriers； and almost esteem it a disgrace to follow any other profession。 On every road of Spain； particularly those north of the mountains which divide the two Castiles； may be seen gangs of fives and sixes of these people lolling or sleeping beneath the broiling sun on their gigantic and heavily laden mutes and mules； the boast of Spain； but dearly purchased by the debasement and degeneration of a once noble breed of horses。 In a word； almost the entire commerce of nearly one half of Spain passes through the hands of the Maragatos； whose fidelity to their trust is such that no one accustomed to employ them would hesitate to entrust them with the transport of a ton of treasure from the sea of Biscay to Madrid； knowing well that it would not be their fault were it not delivered safe and undiminished even of a grain； and that bold must be the thieves who would seek to wrest it from the far…feared Maragatos； who would cling to it whilst they could stand； and would cover it with their bodies when they fell in the act of loading or discharging their long carbines。
But they are far from being disinterested； and if they are the most trustworthy of all the ARRIEROS of Spain； they in general demand for the transport of articles a sum at least double of what others of the trade would esteem a reasonable recompense。 By this means they accumulate large sums of money； notwithstanding that they indulge themselves in a far superior fare to that which contents in general the parsimonious Spaniard … another argument in favour of their pure Gothic descent； for the Maragatos； like true men of the north； delight in swilling liquors and battening upon gross and luscious meats； which help to swell out their tall and goodly figures。 Many of them have died possessed of considerable riches； part of which they have not unfrequently bequeathed to the erection or embellishment of religious houses。 On the east end of the cathedral of Astorga； which towers over the lofty and precipitous wall； a colossal figure of lead may be seen on the roof。 It is the statue of a Maragato carrier； who endowed the cathedral with a large sum。 He is in his national dress； but his head
