letters-第23章
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easel clung。'
Upon the shoulders of the goat…herd was a beast； which he told me was a LONTRA or otter； which he had lately caught in the neighbouring brook； it had a string round its neck which was attached to his arm； at his left side was a bag from the top of which peeped the heads of two or three singular…looking animals； and beside him was squatted the sullen cub of a wolf； which he was endeavouring to tame。 His whole appearance was to the last degree savage and wild。 After a little conversation； such as those who meet on the road frequently hold； I asked him if he could read； but he made no answer。 I then enquired if he knew anything of God or Jesus Christ； he looked me fixedly in the face for a moment； and then turned his countenance towards the sun which was beginning to sink； nodded to it； and then again looked fixedly upon me。 I believed I understood this mute reply； which probably was； that it was God who made that glorious light which illumines and gladdens all creation； and gratified with this belief I left him； and hastened after my companions who were； by this time； a considerable way in advance。
I have always found amongst the children of the fields a more determined tendency to religion and piety than amongst the inhabitants of towns and cities； and the reason is obvious； they are less acquainted with the works of man's hands than with those of God； their occupations are simple； and requiring less of ingenuity and skill than those which engage the intention of the other portion of their fellow…creatures； are less favourable to the engendering of self…conceit and sufficiency； so utterly at variance with that lowliness of spirit which constitutes the best test of piety。 The sneerers and scoffers at religion do not spring from amongst the simple children of nature； but are the excrescences of overwrought refinement； and though their baneful influence has indeed penetrated to the country and corrupted many there； the fountain…head was amongst crowded houses where nature is scarcely known。 I am not one of those who look for perfection amongst the rural population of any country； perfection is not to be found amongst the children of the fall； be their abode where it may； but until the heart disbelieve the existence of a God； there is still hope for the possessor； however stained with crime he may be； for even Simon the Magician was converted。 But when the heart is once steeled with infidelity； infidelity confirmed by carnal reasoning； an exuberance of the grace of God is required to melt it； which is seldom or never manifested； for we read in the blessed book that the Pharisee and the Wizard became receptacles of grace； but where is mention made of the conversion of the sneering Sadducee？ and is the modern infidel aught but a Sadducee of later date？
TO BE CONTINUED。
LETTER： 10th January； 1836
To the Rev。 Andrew Brandram （ENDORSED： recd。 Feb。 29th； 1836） JOURNAL CONTINUED
BADAJOZ； 10th JANUARY 1836。
THE night had closed in before we reached Evora； and having taken leave of my friends； who kindly requested me to consider their house my home； myself and my little party proceeded to the Largo de San Francisco； where was a hostelry； which the muleteer informed me was the best in the town。 We rode into the kitchen； at the extreme end of which was the stable； as is customary in Portugal。 The house was kept by an aged gypsy…like female and her daughter； a fine blooming girl about eighteen years of age。 The house was large； in the upper story was a very long room； like a granary； extending nearly the whole length of the house； the further end was partitioned off； and formed a tolerably comfortable chamber； but rather cold； the floor being of tiles； as was that of the large room in which the muleteers were accustomed to sleep on the furniture of their mules。 Having supped I went to bed； and after having offered up my devotions to Him who had protected me through a dangerous journey； I slept soundly till the morning。
Evora is a walled town； but not regularly fortified； and could not sustain a siege of a day。 It has five gates； before that to the south…west is the principal promenade of the inhabitants； the fair on St。 John's Day is likewise held there。 The houses are mostly very ancient； many of them are unoccupied。 It contains about five thousand inhabitants； though twice that number would be by no means disproportionate to its size。 The two principal edifices are the See or Bishop's Palace； and the Convent of San Francisco； opposite to which I had taken up my abode。 A large barrack for cavalry stands on the right…hand side on entering the south…west gate。 The adjacent country is uninteresting； but to the south…east； at the distance of six leagues； is to be seen a range of blue hills； the highest of which is called Serra Dorso。 It is picturesquely beautiful； and contains within its recesses wolves and wild boars in numbers。 About a league and a half on the other side of this hill is Estremoz。
I passed the day succeeding my arrival principally in examining the town and its environs； and as I strolled about I entered into conversation with various people that I met。 Several of these were of the middle classes； shopkeepers and professional men； they were all Constitutionalists； or pretended to be so； but had very little to say； except a few commonplace remarks on the way of living of the friars； their hypocrisy and laziness。 I endeavoured to obtain some information respecting the state of instruction at Evora； and from their replies was led to believe that it must be very low； for it seemed that there was neither book…shop nor school in the place。 When I spoke of religion； they exhibited the utmost apathy； and making their bows left me as soon as possible。 Having a letter of introduction to a person who kept a shop in the market…place； I called upon him； found him behind his counter and delivered it to him。 I found that he had been persecuted much whilst the old system was in its vigour； and that he entertained a hearty aversion to it。 I told him that the nurse of that system had been the ignorance of the people in religious matters； and that the surest means to prevent its return was to enlighten them in those points。 I added that I had brought with me to Evora a small stock of Testaments and Bibles； which I wished to leave for sale in the hands of some respectable merchant； and that if he were desirous to lay the axe to the root of superstition and tyranny he could not do so more effectually than by undertaking the charge of these books。 He declared his willingness to do so； and that same evening I sent him ten Testaments and a Bible； being half my stock。
I returned to the hostelry； and sat down on a log of wood on the hearth within the immense chimney in the common apartment。 Two men were on their knees on the stones； before them was a large heap of pieces of iron； brass； and copper； they were assorting it and stowing it away in various large bags。 They were Spanish CONTRABANDISTAS； or smugglers of the lowest class； and earned a miserable livelihood by smuggling such rubbish from Portugal into Spain。 Not a word proceeded from their lips； and when I addressed them in their native language they returned no answer but a kind of growl。 They looked as dirty and rusty as the iron in which they trafficked。 The woman of the house and her daughter were exceedingly civil； and coming near to me crouched down； asking various questions about England。 A man dressed something like an English sailor； who sat on the other side of the hearth； confronting me； said： 'I hate the English； for they are not baptized； and have not the law' （meaning the law of God）。 I laughed； and told him； that according to the law of England no one who was not baptized could be buried in consecrated ground； whereupon he said； 'Then you are stricter than we。' He then asked： 'What is meant by the lion and the unicorn which I saw the other day on the coat of arms over the door of the English consul at St。 Uves？' I said that they were the arms of England。 'Yes；' he replied； 'but what
