letters-第22章
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nd I had ridden five leagues。 Some wild…looking men； who； if they were not banditti； might easily be mistaken for such； were seated on logs about the fire； I asked them some unimportant question； to which they replied with readiness and civility； and one of them； who said he could read； accepted a tract which I offered him。
My new friend； who had been bespeaking dinner； or rather breakfast； now with great civility invited me to partake of it； and at the same time introduced me to the officer who accompanied him； and who was his brother； and also spoke English； though not so well as himself。 I found I had become acquainted with Don Geronimo Joze d'Azveto； Secretary to the Government at Evora。 His brother belonged to a regiment of hussars； whose headquarters were at Evora； but which had outlying parties along the road； for example； at the place where we were stopping。 Rabbits at Pegoens seem to be a standard article of food； being produced in abundance on the moors around。 We had one fricasseed； the gravy of which was delicious； and afterwards a roasted one； which was brought up on a dish entire。 The hostess having first washed her hands proceeded to tear the animal to pieces； which having accomplished she poured over the fragments a sweet sauce。 I ate remarkably heartily of both dishes； particularly of the last； owing perhaps to the novel and curious manner in which it was served up。 Excellent figs from the Algarves and apples completed our repast； which we ate in a little side room with a mud…floor； which sent such a piercing chill into my system as prevented me from deriving that pleasure from my good fare and agreeable companions which I might otherwise have experienced。 Don Joze d'Azveto had been educated in England； in which country he passed his boyhood； which to a certain degree accounted for his proficiency in the English language； the idioms and pronunciation of which can only be acquired by a residence in the country at that period of one's life。 He had also fled thither shortly after the usurpation of the throne of Portugal by Don Miguel； and from thence had passed over to the Brazils； where he had devoted himself to the service of Don Pedro； and had followed him in that expedition which terminated in the downfall of the Usurper and the establishment of the constitutional government in Portugal。 Our conversation rolled chiefly on literary and political subjects； and my acquaintance with the writings of the most celebrated authors of Portugal was hailed with surprise and delight； for nothing is more gratifying to a well…educated Portuguese than to observe a foreigner taking an interest in the literature of his nation； of which he is so justly proud。
About two o'clock we were once more in the saddle； and pursued our way through a country exactly resembling that which we had previously been traversing； rugged and broken； with here and there a clump of pines。 The afternoon was exceedingly fine； and the bright rays of the sun relieved the desolation of the scene。 Having advanced about two leagues； I caught sight of a large edifice in the distance； which I learnt was a royal palace； standing at the farther extremity of Vendas Novas； the village where we were to halt。 It was considerably more than a league from us； yet； seen through the clear transparent atmosphere of Portugal； it appeared much nearer。 Before reaching it； we passed by a stone cross； on the pedestal of which was an inscription commemorating a horrible murder of a native of Lisbon； which had been perpetrated on that spot。 It looked ancient； and was covered with moss； and the greatest part of the inscription was illegible； at least it was to me； who could not bestow much time on the deciphering of it。
Having arrived at Vendas Novas and bespoke supper； my new friends and myself strolled forth to view the palace。 It was built by the late King of Portugal； and presents little that is remarkable in its exterior。 It is a long edifice with wings； and is only two stories high； though it can be seen afar； owing to its being situated on elevated ground。 It has fifteen windows in the upper and twelve in the lower story； with a paltry…looking door something like that of a barn； the ascent to which is by a single step。 The interior corresponds with the exterior； offering nothing which can gratify curiosity； if we except the kitchens； which are indeed magnificent； and so large that food enough might be prepared in them to serve as a repast to all the inhabitants of the Alemtejo。 I passed the night with great comfort in a clean bed； remote from all those noises in general so rife in a Portuguese inn； and the next morning at six we again set out on our journey； which we hoped to terminate before sunset； as Evora is but ten leagues from Vendas Novas。 The preceding morning had been cold； but the present one was far more； so much so that just before sunrise I could no longer support it whilst riding； and therefore dismounting ran and walked until we reached a few houses； at the termination of these desolate moors。 It was in one of these houses that the commissioners of Don Pedro and Miguel met； and it was there agreed that the latter should resign the crown in favour of Donna Maria； for Evora was the last stronghold of the Usurper； and the moors of the Alemtejo the last area of the combats which so long agitated unhappy Portugal。 I therefore gazed on the miserable huts with considerable interest； and did not fail to scatter in the neighbourhood several of the precious little tracts with which； together with a small quantity of Bibles； my carpet…bag was provided。
The country began to improve； the savage heaths were left behind； and we saw hills and dales； cork…trees and AZINEIRIAS； on the last of which trees grows that kind of sweet acorn called BOLOTA； which is pleasant as a chestnut； and forms in winter the principal food on which the numerous swine of the Alemtejo subsist。 Gallant swine they are； with short legs and portly bodies； of a black or dark…red colour； and for the excellence of their flesh I can avouch； having frequently partaken of it in the course of my wanderings in this province。 The LUMBO； or loin； when broiled on the live embers； is delicious； especially when eaten with olives。
We were now in sight of Monte Moro； which as the name denotes was once a fortress of the Moors； it is a high； steep hill； on the summit and sides of which are ruined walls and towers。 At its western side is a deep ravine or valley； through which a small stream rushes； traversed by a stone bridge； farther down there is a ford； through which we passed and ascended to the town； which commencing near the northern base； passes over the lower ridge towards the north…east； the town is exceedingly picturesque； and many of the houses are very ancient and built in the Moorish fashion。 I wished much to examine the relics of Moorish sway on the upper part of the mountain； but time pressed； and the shortness of our stay in this place did not permit me to gratify my inclination。
Monte Moro is the head of a range of hills crossing this part of the Alemtejo； and from hence they fork towards the east and south… east； in the former of which directions lies the direct road to Elvas； Badajoz； and Madrid； and in the latter the road to Evora。 A beautiful mountain； covered to the top with cork trees； is the third in the chain which skirts the way in the direction of Evora。 It is called Monte Almo； a brook brawls at its base； and as I passed it the sun was shining gloriously on the green herbage； on which flocks of goats were feeding with their bells ringing merrily； so that the TOUT ENSEMBLE resembled a fairy scene； and that nothing might be wanted to complete the picture； I here met a man； a goat…herd； beneath an AZINEIRIA whose appearance recalled to my mind the Brute…man mentioned in an ancient Danish poem：
'A wild swine on his shoulders he kept； And upon his bosom a black bear slept； And about his fingers with hair o'erhung The squirrel sported and weasel clung。'
Upon the shoulders of the goat…herd was a beast； which he told me was a LONTRA o
