letters-第16章
按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
they are； however； by no means unskilled； as many a follower of Jesus from his own individual experience can testify＇。
After the termination of my editorial task； having little to employ myself upon whilst the two last volumes were undergoing the process of binding； I determined upon a journey to Moscow； the ancient capital of the Russian Empire； which differs widely from St。 Petersburg in appearance； structure； and in the manners； habits； and opinions of its inhabitants。 I arrived there after a journey of four days。 Moscow is by far the most remarkable city it has ever been my fortune to see； but as it has been frequently described； and with tolerable correctness； there is no necessity for me to enter into a particular account of all that presented itself to my observation。 I ascended the celebrated tower of Ivan Velike； situated within the walls of the Kremlin； from the top of which there is a glorious view of Moscow and of the surrounding country； and at the foot of which； in a deep hole in the earth； is the gigantic bell which weighs 27；000 POODS； or eight hundred and seventy thousand pounds。 I likewise visited the splendid church of the Kremlin； and had much conversation with the priest who is in the habit of showing its curiosities to strangers。 He is a most intelligent and seemingly truly pious person； and well acquainted with English spiritual literature； especially with the writings of Bishops Taylor and Tillotson； whom he professed to hold in great admiration； though he asserted that both these divines； great men as they undoubtedly were； were far inferior writers to his own celebrated countryman Archbishop Teekon； and their productions less replete with spiritual manna … against which assertion I felt little inclined to urge any objection； having myself perused the works of the great Russian divine with much comfort and satisfaction； and with which I can only regret ＇that＇ the devout part of the British public are up to the present moment utterly unacquainted。
As one of the principal motives of my visit to Moscow was to hold communication with a particular part of its population； which from the accounts I had received of it had inspired me with the most vivid interest； I did not fail shortly after my arrival to seek an opportunity of accomplishing my work； and believe that what I have now to communicate will be of some interest to the Christian and the philosopher。 I allude to the people called Zigani or Gypsies； or； as they style themselves； Rommany； of which there are several thousands in and about Moscow； and who obtain a livelihood by various means。 Those who have been accustomed to consider these people as wandering barbarians； incapable of civilisation and unable to appreciate the blessings of a quiet and settled life； will be surprised at learning that many of those in Moscow inhabit large and handsome houses； appear abroad in elegant equipages； and if distinguishable from the genteel class of the Russians ＇are＇ only so by superior personal advantages and mental accomplishments。 Of this singular phenomenon at Moscow the female Gypsies are the principal cause； having from time immemorial cultivated their vocal powers to such an extent that； although in the heart of a country in which the vocal art has arrived at greater perfection than in any other part of the world； the principal Gypsy choirs in Moscow are allowed by the general voice of the public to be unrivalled and to bear away the palm from all competitors。 It is a fact notorious in Russia that the celebrated Catalani was so filled with admiration for the powers of voice displayed by one of the Gypsy songsters； who； after the former had sung before a splendid audience at Moscow； stepped forward and with an astonishing burst of melody ravished every ear； that she tore from her own shoulders a shawl of immense value which had been presented to her by the Pope； and embracing the Gypsy compelled her to accept it； saying that it had been originally intended for the matchless singer which she now discovered was not herself。 The sums obtained by these performers are very large； enabling them to live in luxury of every description and to maintain their husbands in a princely way。 Many of them are married to Russian gentlemen； and every one who has resided for any length of time in Russia cannot but be aware that the lovely； talented； and domesticated wife of Count Alexander Tolstoi is by birth a Gypsy； and was formerly one of the ornaments of a Rommany choir at Moscow as she is now one of the principal ornaments of the marriage state and of illustrious life。 It is not； however； to be supposed that all the female Gypsies in Moscow are of this high； talented； and respectable order； amongst them there are a great number of low； vulgar； and profligate females who sing in taverns； or at the various gardens in the neighbourhood； and whose husbands and male connections subsist by horse…jobbing and such kinds of low traffic。 The principal place of resort of this class is Marina Rotche； lying about two VERSES from Moscow； and thither I drove； attended by a VALET…DE…PLACE。 Upon my arriving there the Gypsies swarmed out from their tents and from the little TRACTEER or tavern； and surrounded me。 Standing on the seat of the CALECHE； I addressed them in a loud voice in the dialect of the English Gypsies； with which I have some slight acquaintance。 A scream of wonder instantly arose； and welcomes and greetings were poured forth in torrents of musical Rommany； amongst which； however； the most pronounced cry was： AH KAK MI TOUTE KARMUMA … 'Oh； how we love you；' for at first they supposed me to be one of their brothers； who； they said； were wandering about in Turkey； China； and other parts； and that I had come over the great PAWNEE； or water； to visit them。 Their countenances exactly resembled those of their race in England and Spain； brown； and for the most part beautiful； their eyes fiery and wildly intelligent； their hair coal…black and somewhat coarse。 I asked them numerous questions； especially as to their religion and original country。 They said that they believed in 'Devil；' which； singularly enough； in their language signifies God； and that they were afraid of the evil spirit； or 'Bengel'； that their fathers came from Rommany land； but where that land lay they knew not。 They sang many songs both in the Russian and Rommany languages； the former were modern popular pieces which are in vogue on the stage； but the latter were evidently very ancient； being composed in a metre or cadence to which there is nothing analogous in Russian prosody； and exhibiting an internal character which was anything but European or modern。 I visited this place several times during my sojourn at Moscow； and spoke to them upon their sinful manner of living； upon the advent and suffering of Christ Jesus； and expressed； upon my taking a final leave of them； a hope that they would be in a short period furnished with the word of eternal life in their own language； which they seemed to value and esteem much higher than the Russian。 They invariably listened with much attention； and during the whole time I was amongst them exhibited little in speech or conduct which was objectionable。
I returned to Petersburg； and shortly afterwards； the business which had brought me to Russia being successfully terminated； I quitted that country； and am compelled to acknowledge； with regret。 I went thither prejudiced against the country； the government； and the people； the first is much more agreeable than is generally supposed； the second is seemingly the best adapted for so vast an empire； and the third； even the lowest classes； are in general kind； hospitable； and benevolent。 True it is that they have many vices； and their minds are overshadowed by the gloomy clouds of Grecian superstition； but the efforts of many excellent and pious persons amongst the English at St。 Petersburg are directed to unveiling to them the cheering splendour of the lamp of the Gospel； and it is the sincere prayer of the humble individual who now addresses you that the difficulties which at pre
