flying machines-第10章
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monoplane 24 1/2 feet in spread; and with a total sustaining
surface of 150 1/2 square feet。 The total weight of
the outfit; including machine; operator and fuel sufficient
for a three…hour run; was only 660 pounds。 With
an engine of (nominally) 25 horsepower the distance of
21 miles was covered in 37 minutes。
Which is the Best?
Right here an established mathematical quantity is
involved。 A small plane surface offers less resistance
to the air than a large one and consequently can attain
a higher rate of speed。 As explained further on in this
chapter speed is an important factor in the matter of
weight…sustaining capacity。 A machine that travels one…
third faster than another can get along with one…half the
surface area of the latter without affecting the load。 See
the closing paragraph of this chapter on this point。 In
theory the construction is also the simplest; but this is
not always found to be so in practice。 The designing
and carrying into execution of plans for an extensive
area like that of a monoplane involves great skill and
cleverness in getting a framework that will be strong
enough to furnish the requisite support without an undue excess
of weight。 This proposition is greatly simplified
in the biplane and; while the speed attained by the latter
may not be quite so great as that of the monoplane; it
has much larger weight…carrying capacity。
Proper Sizes For Frame。
Allowing that the biplane form is selected the construction
may be practically identical with that of the
20…foot glider described in Chapter V。; except as to size
and elimination of the armpieces。 In size the surface
planes should be about twice as large as those of the
20…foot glider; viz: 40 feet spread instead of 20; and 6 feet
deep instead of 3。 The horizontal beams; struts; stanchions;
ribs; etc。; should also be increased in size proportionately。
While care in the selection of clear; straight…grained
timber is important in the glider; it is still more important
in the construction of a motor…equipped flying
machine as the strain on the various parts will be much
greater。
How to Splice Timbers。
It is practically certain that you will have to resort to
splicing the horizontal beams as it will be difficult; if not
impossible; to find 40…foot pieces of timber totally free
from knots and worm holes; and of straight grain。
If splicing is necessary select two good 20…foot pieces;
3 inches wide and 1 1/2 inches thick; and one 10…foot long;
of the same thickness and width。 Plane off the bottom
sides of the 10…foot strip; beginning about two feet back
from each end; and taper them so the strip will be about
3/4 inch thick at the extreme ends。 Lay the two 20…foot
beams end to end; and under the joint thus made place
the 10…foot strip; with the planed…off ends downward。
The joint of the 20…foot pieces should be directly in the
center of the 10…foot piece。 Bore ten holes (with a 1/4…
inch augur) equi…distant apart through the 20…foot
strips and the 10…foot strip under them。 Through these
holes run 1/4…inch stove bolts with round; beveled heads。
In placing these bolts use washers top and bottom; one
between the head and the top beam; and the other between
the bottom beam and the screw nut which holds
the bolt。 Screw the nuts down hard so as to bring the
two beams tightly together; and you will have a rigid
40…foot beam。
Splicing with Metal Sleeves。
An even better way of making a splice is by tonguing
and grooving the ends of the frame pieces and enclosing
them in a metal sleeve; but it requires more mechanical
skill than the method first named。 The operation of
tonguing and grooving is especially delicate and calls
for extreme nicety of touch in the handling of tools; but
if this dexterity is possessed the job will be much more
satisfactory than one done with a third timber。
As the frame pieces are generally about 1 1/2 inch in
diameter; the tongue and the groove into which the
tongue fits must be correspondingly small。 Begin by
sawing into one side of one of the frame pieces about 4
inches back from the end。 Make the cut about 1/2 inch
deep。 Then turn the piece over and duplicate the cut。
Next saw down from the end to these cuts。 When the
sawed…out parts are removed you will have a 〃tongue〃
in the end of the frame timber 4 inches long and 1/2 inch
thick。 The next move is to saw out a 5/8…inch groove in
the end of the frame piece which is to be joined。 You
will have to use a small chisel to remove the 5/8…inch bit。
This will leave a groove into which the tongue will fit
easily。
Joining the Two Pieces。
Take a thin metal sleevethis is merely a hollow tube
of aluminum or brass open at each end8 inches long;
and slip it over either the tongued or grooved end of one
of the frame timbers。 It is well to have the sleeve fit
snugly; and this may necessitate a sand…papering of the
frame pieces so the sleeve will slip on。
Push the sleeve well back out of the way。 Cover the
tongue thoroughly with glue; and also put some on the
inside of the groove。 Use plenty of glue。 Now press
the tongue into the groove; and keep the ends firmly
together until the glue is thoroughly dried。 Rub off the
joint lightly with sand…paper to remove any of the glue
which may have oozed out; and slip the sleeve into place
over the joint。 Tack the sleeve in position with small
copper tacks; and you will have an ideal splice。
The same operation is to be repeated on each of the
four frame pieces。 Two 20…foot pieces joined in this
way will give a substantial frame; but when suitable
timber of this kind can not be had; three pieces; each 6
feet 11 inches long; may be used。 This would give 20
feet 9 inches; of which 8 inches will be taken up in the
two joints; leaving the frame 20 feet 1 inch long。
Installation of Motor。
Next comes the installation of the motor。 The kinds
and efficiency of the various types are described in the
following chapter (IX)。 All we are interested in at
this point is the manner of installation。 This varies
according to the personal ideas of the aviator。 Thus one
man puts his motor in the front of his machine; another
places it in the center; and still another finds the rear of
the frame the best。 All get good results; the comparative
advantages of which it is difficult to estimate。 Where
one man; as already explained; flies faster than another;
the one beaten from the speed standpoint has an advantage
in the matter of carrying weight; etc。
The ideas of various well…known aviators as to the
correct placing of motors may be had from the following:
WrightsIn rear of machine and to one side。
CurtissWell to rear; about midway between upper
and lower planes。
RaichIn rear; above the center。
Brauner…SmithIn exact center of machine。
Van AndenIn center。
Herring…BurgessDirectly behind operator。
VoisinIn rear; and on lower plane。
BleriotIn front。
R。 E。 P。In front。
The One Chief Object。
An even distribution of the load so as to assist in
maintaining the equilibrium of the machine; should be
the one chief object in deciding upon the location of the
motor。 It matters little what particular spot is selected
so long as the weight does not tend to overbalance the
machine; or to 〃throw it off an even keel。〃 It is just
like loading a vessel; an operation in which the expert
seeks to so distribute the weight of the cargo as to keep
the vessel in a perfectly upright position; and prevent a
〃list〃 or leaning to one side。 The more evenly the cargo
is distributed the more perfect will be the equilibrium of
the vessel and the better it can be handled。 Sometimes;
when not properly stowed; the cargo shifts; and this at
once affects the position of the craft。 When a ship
〃lists〃 to starboard or port a preponderating weight of
the cargo has shifted sideways;