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第21章

noto, an unexplored corner of japan-第21章

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frisked in and out for some time among the boulders; suddenly took it

into its head to scale a cliff on the left。  It did this; as it

seemed to me; without provocation; after a certain reckless fashion

of its own。  The higher it climbed; the more foolhardy it got; till

the down…look grew unpleasant。  Then it took to coquetting with the

gulf on its right until; as I knew would happen; it lost its head

completely and fell over the edge。  The gap had been spanned by a few

loose boards。  Over the makeshift we all; one after the other;

gingerly crawled; each waiting his turn; with the abyss gaping on his

side; for the one in front to move on。 



We had not yet recovered from the shock when we came to another place

not unlike the first。  Here again the path had given way; and a

couple of logs had been lashed across the inner elbow of the cliff。 

We crossed this by balancing ourselves for the first two steps by the

stump of a bush that jutted out from a crevice in the rock; for the

next two we touched the cliff with the tips of our fingers; for the

last two we balanced ourselves alone。 



For the time being the gods of high places had tempted us enough; for

the path now descended again to the dry bed of the stream; and there

for a certain distance tripped along in all soberness; giving me the

chance to look about me。  The precipitous sides of the mountains that

shut in the narrow valley were heavily masked in forest; and for some

time past; the ravines that scored their sides had been patched with

snow。  With each new mile of advance the patches grew larger and

merged into one another; stretching toward the stream。  We now began

to meet snow on the path。  In the mean time; from one cause and

another; insensibly I fell behind。  The others passed on out of

sight。 



The path; having lulled me into a confiding unconcern; started in

seeming innocence of purpose to climb again。  Its ingenuousness but

prefaced a malicious surprise。  For of a sudden; unmasking a corner;

it presented itself in profile ahead; a narrow ledge notched in naked

simplicity against the precipice。  Things look better slightly

veiled; besides; it is more decent; even in a path。  In this case the

shamelessness was earnest of the undoing。  For on reaching the point

in view and turning it I stood confronted by a sight sorry indeed。 

The path beyond had vanished。  Far below; out of sight over the edge;

lay the torrent; unscalable the cliff rose above; and a line of

fossil footprints; leading across the face of the precipice in the

debris; alone marked where the path had been。  Spectres they seemed

of their former selves。  Crusoe could not have been more horrified

than was I。 



Not to have come suggested itself as the proper solution; unfortunately

an impracticable one; and being there; to turn back was inadmissible。 

So I took myself in hand and started。  For the first few steps I was

far too much given up to considering possibilities。  I thought how a

single misstep would end。  I could see my footing slip; feel the

consciousness that I was gone; the dull thuds from point to point as

what remained of me bounded beyond the visible edge down; down。  。  。 

And after that what!  How long before the porters missed me and came

back in search?  Would there be any trace to tell what had befallen?

And then Yejiro returning alone to Tokyo to reportlost on the

Dragon peak!  Each time I almost felt my foot give way as I put it

down; right before left; left before right。 



Then I realized that this inopportune flirting with fate must stop;

that I must give over dallying with sensations; or it would soon be

all over with me。  I was falling a prey to the native Loreleifor

all these spots in Japan have their familiar devilssubjectively; as

befits a modern man。  I numbed sensibility as best I could and cared

only to make each step secure。  Between the Nirvana within and the

Nirvana below; it was a sorry hell。 



In mid…career the path made an attempt to recover; but relapsed to

further footprints in the sand。  At last it descended to a brook。

I knelt to drink; and on getting up again saw my pocket…handkerchief

whisking merrily away down stream。  I gave chase; but in vain; for

though it came to the surface once or twice to tantalize me it was

gone before I could seize it。  So I gave over the pursuit; reflecting

that; after all; it might have fared worse with me。  If the Lorelei

had hoped to turn my head; I was well quit of my handkerchief for her

only trophy。 



Shortly after this; the main stream divided into two; and the left

branch; which we followed; led up to a gorge;beyond a doubt the

abomination of desolation spoken of by the prophet。  I do not

remember a landscape more ghastly。  Not a tree; not a blade of grass;

not even decent earth in the whole prospect。  Apparently; the place

had been flayed alive and sulphur had then been poured into the sore。 

Thirty years before a cataclysm had occurred here。  The side of one

of the mountains had slid bodily into the valley。  The debris; by

damming up the stream; caused a freshet; which swept everything

before it and killed quantities of folk lower down the valley。

The place itself has never recovered to this day。 



Although the stream here was a baby to the one below; it was large

enough to be impassable to the natural man。  From our woodcutter

friends; however; we had learned of the leavings of a bridge; upon

which in due time we came; and putting the parts of it in place; we

passed successfully over。 



We now began to enter the snow in good earnest; incipient glacier

snow; treacherously honeycombed。  It made; however; more agreeable

walking than the boulders。  The path had again become precipitous;

and kept on mounting; till of a sudden it landed us upon an

amphitheatral arena; dominated by high; jagged peaks。  One unbroken

stretch of snow covered the plateau; and at the centre of the wintry

winding…sheet a cluster of weather…beaten huts appealed pitiably to

the eye。  They were the buildings of the Riuzanjita hot…springs; in

summer a sort of secular monastery for pilgrims to the Dragon peak。 

They were tenanted now; we had been told; by a couple of watchmen。 

We struck out with freer strides; while the moon; which had by this

time risen high enough to overtop the wall of peaks; watched us with

an ashen face; as in single file we moved across the waste of level

white。 



 



XVI。



Riuzanjita。



We made for the main hut; a low; mouse…colored shanty fast asleep and

deep drifted in snow。  The advance porter summoned the place; and the

summons drew to what did for door a man as mouselike as his mansion。 

He had about him a subdued; monkish demeanor that only partially hid

an alertness within;a secular monk befitting the spot。  He showed

himself a kindly body; and after he had helped the porters off with

their packs; led the way into the room in which he and his mate

hibernated。  It was a room very much in the rough; boards for walls;

for ceiling; for floor; its only furnishing a fire。  It was the best

of furnishing in our eyes; and we hasted to squat round it in a

circle; in attitudes of extreme devotion; for it was bitter cold。 

The monkish watchman threw a handful more twigs on the embers; out of

a cheerful hospitality to his guests。 



The fireplace was merely a hole in the floor; according to Japanese

custom; and the smoke found its way out as best it could。  But there

was very little of it; usually; indeed; there is none; for charcoal

is the common combustible。  A cauldron hung; by iron bars jointed

together; from the gloom above。  It was twilight in the room。 

Already the day without was fading fast; and even at high noon; none

too much of it could find a way into the building; now half buried

under the snow。  A second watchman sat muffled in shadow on the

farther side of the fire。  He made his presence known; from time to

time; by occasional 

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