noto, an unexplored corner of japan-第12章
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Yejiro ransacked the town； from which excursions he returned every
few minutes with a fresh refusal； but the same excuse。 It got so at
last I could anticipate the excuse。 The inn was full alreadyof
assessors and their victims。 The assessors had descended on the
spot； it seemed； and the whole country…side had come to town to lie
about the value of its land。 I only wished the inhabitants might
have chosen some other time for false swearing。 For it was a sad tax
on my credulity。
We did indeed get one offer which I duly went to inspect； but the
outside of the house satisfied me。 At last I adopted extreme
measures。 I sent Yejiro off to the police station。 This move
produced its effect。
Even at home； from having contrived to keep on the sunny side of the
law and order； my feelings toward the police are friendly enough for
all practical purposes； but in no land have I such an affectionate
regard for the constabulary as in Japan。 Members of the force there；
if the term be applicable to a set of students spectacled from
over…study； whose strength is entirely moral； never get you into
trouble； and usually get you out of it。 One of their chief charms to
the traveler lies in their open…sesame effect upon obdurate
landlords。 In this trick they are wonderfully successful。
Having given ourselves up to the police； therefore； we were already
by way of being lodged； and that quickly。 So indeed it proved。
In the time to go and come； Yejiro reappeared with an officer in
civilian's clothes； who first made profuse apologies for presenting
himself in undress； but it seemed he was off duty at the moment；and
then led the way a stone's throw round the corner； and in five minutes
I was sitting as snugly as you please in a capital room in an inn's
third story； sipping tea and pecking at sugar plums； a distinctly
honored guest。
Here fate put in a touch of satire。 For it now appeared that all our
trouble was quite gratuitous。 Most surprisingly the innkeepers'
story on this occasion proved to be entirely true； a possibility I
had never entertained for a second； and furthermore it appeared that
our present inn was the one in which I had been offered rooms but had
refused； disliking its exterior。
Such is the reward for acting on general principles。
IX。
Over the Arayama Pass。
The morning that was to give me my self…promised land crept on tiptoe
into the room on the third story； and touched me where I slept； and
on pushing the shoji apart and looking out； I beheld as fair a day as
heart could wish。 A faint misty vapor； like a bridal veil； was just
lifting from off the face of things； and letting the sky show through
in blue…eyed depths。 It was a morning of desire； bashful for its
youth as yet； but graced with a depth of atmosphere sure to expand
into a full； warm； perfect noon； and I hastened to be out and become
a part of it。
Three jinrikishas stood waiting our coming at the door； and amidst a
pelting of sayonara from the whole household； we dashed off as
proudly as possible down the main street of the town； to the
admiration of many lookers…on。 The air； laden with moisture； left
kisses on our cheeks as we hurried by； while the sunshine fell in
long scarfs of gauzy shimmer over the shoulders of the eastern hills。
The men in the shafts felt the fillip of it all and encouraged one
another with lusty cries； a light…heartedness that lent them heels。
Even the peasants in the fields seemed to wish us well； as they
looked up from their work to grin good…humoredly。
We value most what we attain with difficulty。 It was on this
principle no doubt that the road considerately proceeded to give out。
It degenerated indeed very rapidly after losing sight of the town；
and soon was no more than a collection of holes strung on ruts； that
made travel in perambulators tiring alike to body and soul。 At last；
after five miles of floundering； it gave up all pretence at a
wheel…way； and deposited us at a wayside teahouse at the foot of a
little valley； the first step indeed up the Arayama pass。 Low hills
had closed in on the right； shutting off the sea； and the ridge
dividing Noto from Etchiu rose in higher lines upon the left。
Here we hired porters； securing them from the neighboring fields；
for they were primarily peasants； and were porters only as we were
tramps； by virtue of the country。 Porterage being the sole means of
transport； they came to carry our things as they would have carried
their own； in skeleton hods strapped to their backs。 In this they
did not differ from the Japanese custom generally； but in one point
they showed a strange advance over their fellows。 They were
wonderfully methodical folk。 They paid no heed to our hurry； and
instead of shouldering the baggage they proceeded to weigh it； each
manload by itself； on a steelyard of wood six feet long； the results
they then worked out conscientiously on an abacus。 After which I
paid accordingly。 Truly an equitable adjustment between man and man；
at which I lost only the time it took。 Then we started。
From the teahouse the path rose steadily enough for so uneducated a
way； leaving the valley to contract into an open glen。 The day；
in the mean time； came out as it had promised； full and warm； fine
basking weather； as a certain snake in the path seemed to think。 So；
I judge； did the porters。 If it be the pace that kills； these simple
folk must be a long…lived race。 They certainly were very careful not
to hurry themselves。 Had they been hired for life； so thrifty a
husbanding of their strength would have been most gratifying to
witness； unluckily they were mine only for the job。 They moved； one
foot after the other； with a mechanical precision； exhausting even to
look at。 To keep with them was practically impossible for an ordinary
pedestrian。 Nothing short of a woman shopping could worthily have
matched their pace。 In sight their speed was snail…like； out of it
they would appear to have stopped； so far did they fall behind。
Once I thought they had turned back。
The path we were following was the least traveled of the only two
possible entrances into Noto by land。 It was a side or postern gate
to the place； over a gap on the northern end of a mountain wall；
the main approach lying along its other flank。 For a high range of
uninhabited hills nearly dams the peninsula across； falling on the
right side straight into the sea； but leaving on the other a lowland
ligature that binds Noto to Kaga。 To get from Kaga into Etchiu； the
range has to be crossed lower down。 Our dip in the chain was called
the Arayama toge or Rough Mountain pass； and was perhaps fifteen
hundred feet high； but pleasingly modeled in its lines after one ten
times its height。
Half…way up the tug of the last furlong； where the ascent became
steep enough for zig…zags； I turned to look back。 Down away from me
fell the valley； slipping by reason of its own slope out into the
great Etchiu plain。 Here and there showed bits of the path in
corkscrew； from my personal standpoint all perfectly porterless。
Over the low hills； to the left； lay the sea； the crescent of its
great beach sweeping grandly round into the indistinguishable
distance。 Back of it stretched the Etchiu plain； but beyond that；
nothing。 The mountains that should have bounded it were lost to
sight in the spring haze。
Mechanically my eyes followed up into the languid blue； when suddenly
they chanced upon a little cloud； for cloud I took it to be。
Yet something about it struck me as strange； and scanning it more
closely； by this most natural kind of second sight； I marked the
unmistakable glisten of snow。 It was a snow peak towering there in
isolated majesty。 As I gazed it grew on me with ineffable grandeur；
sparkling with a faint saffron glamour of its own。 Shifting my look
a little I saw another and then another of t
