the malay archipelago-1-第31章

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on　oriole　（Analcipus　sanguinolentus）；　all　of　these　species　which　are　found　only　in　Java；　and　even　seem　to　be　confined　to　its　western　portion。

In　a　week　I　obtained　no　less　than　twenty…four　species　of　birds；　which　I　had　not　found　in　the　east　of　the　island；　and　in　a　fortnight　this　number　increased　to　forty　species；　almost　all　of　which　are　peculiar　to　the　Javanese　fauna。　Large　and　handsome　butterflies　were　also　tolerably　abundant。　In　dark　ravines；　and　occasionally　on　the　roadside；　I　captured　the　superb　Papilio　arjuna；　whose　wings　seem　powdered　with　grains　of　golden　green；　condensed　into　bands　and　moon…shaped　spots；　while　the　elegantly…　formed　Papilio　coon　was　sometimes　to　be　found　fluttering　slowly　along　the　shady　pathways　（see　figure　at　page　201）。　One　day　a　boy　brought　me　a　butterfly　between　his　fingers；　perfectly　unhurt。　He　had　caught　it　as　it　was　sitting　with　wings　erect；　sucking　up　the　liquid　from　a　muddy　spot　by　the　roadside。　Many　of　the　finest　tropical　butterflies　have　this　habit；　and　they　are　generally　so　intent　upon　their　meal　that　they　can　be　easily　be　reached　and　captured。　It　proved　to　be　the　rare　and　curious　Charaxes　kadenii；　remarkable　for　having　on　each　hind　wing　two　curved　tails　like　a　pair　of　callipers。　It　was　the　only　specimen　I　ever　saw；　and　is　still　the　only　representative　of　its　kind　in　English　collections。

In　the　east　of　Java　I　had　suffered　from　the　intense　heat　and　drought　of　the　dry　season；　which　had　been　very　inimical　to　insect　life。　Here　I　had　got　into　the　other　extreme　of　damp；　wet；　and　cloudy　weather；　which　was　equally　unfavourable。　During　the　month　which　I　spent　in　the　interior　of　West　Java；　I　never　had　a　really　hot　fine；　day　throughout。　It　rained　almost　every　afternoon；　or　dense　mists　came　down　from　the　mountains；　which　equally　stopped　collecting；　and　rendered　it　most　difficult　to　dry　my　specimens；　so　that　I　really　had　no　chance　of　getting　a　fair　sample　of　Javanese　entomology。

By　far　the　most　interesting　incident　in　my　visit　to　Java　was　a　trip　to　the　summit　of　the　Pangerango　and　Gedeh　mountains；　the　former　an　extinct　volcanic　cone　about　10；000　feet　high；　the　latter　an　active　crater　on　a　lower　portion　of　the　same　mountain　range。　Tchipanas；　about　four　miles　over　the　Megamendong　Pass；　is　at　the　foot　of　the　mountain。　A　small　country　house　for　the　Governor…General　and　a　branch　of　the　Botanic　Gardens　are　situated　here；　the　keeper　of　which　accommodated　me　with　a　bed　for　a　night。　There　are　many　beautiful　trees　and　shrubs　planted　here；　and　large　quantities　of　European　vegetables　are　grown　for　the　Governor…　General's　table。　By　the　side　of　a　little　torrent　that　bordered　the　garden；　quantities　of　orchids　were　cultivated；　attached　to　the　trunks　of　trees；　or　suspended　from　the　branches；　forming　an　interesting　open　air　orchid…house。　As　I　intended　to　stay　two　or　three　nights　on　the　mountain；　I　engaged　two　coolies　to　carry　my　baggage；　and　with　my　two　hunters　we　started　early　the　next　morning。

The　first　mile　was　over　open　country；　which　brought　us　to　the　forest　that　covers　the　whole　mountain　from　a　height　of　about　5；000　feet。　The　next　mile　or　two　was　a　tolerably　steep　ascent　through　a　grand　virgin　forest；　the　trees　being　of　great　size；　and　the　undergrowth　consisting　of　fine　herbaceous　plants；　tree…ferns；　and　shrubby　vegetation。　I　was　struck　by　the　immense　number　of　ferns　that　grew　by　the　side　of　the　road。　Their　variety　seemed　endless；　and　I　was　continually　stopping　to　admire　some　new　and　interesting　forms。　I　could　now　well　understand　what　I　had　been　told　by　the　gardener；　that　300　species　had　been　found　on　this　one　mountain。　A　little　before　noon　we　reached　the　small　plateau　of　Tjiburong；　at　the　foot　of　the　steeper　part　of　the　mountain；　where　there　is　a　plank…house　for　the　accommodation　of　travellers。　Close　by　is　a　picturesque　waterfall　and　a　curious　cavern；　which　I　had　not　time　to　explore。　Continuing　our　ascent　the　road　became　narrow；　rugged　and　steep；　winding　zigzag　up　the　cone；　which　is　covered　with　irregular　masses　of　rock；　and　overgrown　with　a　dense　luxuriant　but　less　lofty　vegetation。　We　passed　a　torrent　of　water　which　is　not　much　lower　than　the　boiling　point；　and　has　a　most　singular　appearance　as　it　foams　over　its　rugged　bed；　sending　up　clouds　of　steam；　and　often　concealed　by　the　overhanging　herbage　of　ferns　and　lycopodia；　which　here　thrive　with　more　luxuriance　than　elsewhere。

At　about　7；500　feet　we　came　to　another　hut　of　open　bamboos；　at　a　place　called　Kandang　Badak；　or　〃Rhinoceros…field；〃　which　we　were　going　to　make　our　temporary　abode。　Here　was　a　small　clearing；　with　abundance　of　tree…ferns　and　some　young　plantations　of　Cinchona。　As　there　was　now　a　thick　mist　and　drizzling　rain；　I　did　not　attempt　to　go　on　to　the　summit　that　evening；　but　made　two　visits　to　it　during　my　stay；　as　well　as　one　to　the　active　crater　of　Gedeh。　This　is　a　vast　semicircular　chasm；　bounded　by　black　perpendicular　walls　of　rock；　and　surrounded　by　miles　of　rugged　scoria…covered　slopes。　The　crater　itself　is　not　very　deep。　It　exhibits　patches　of　sulphur　and　variously…coloured　volcanic　products；　and　emits　from　several　vents　continual　streams　of　smoke　and　vapour。　The　extinct　cone　of　Pangerango　was　to　me　more　interesting。　The　summit　is　an　irregular　undulating　plain　with　a　low　bordering　ridge；　and　one　deep　lateral　chasm。　Unfortunately；　there　was　perpetual　mist　and　rain　either　above　or　below　us　all　the　time　I　was　on　the　mountain；　so　that　I　never　once　saw　the　plain　below；　or　had　a　glimpse　of　the　magnificent　view　which　in　fine　weather　is　to　be　obtained　from　its　summit。　Notwithstanding　this　drawback　I　enjoyed　the　excursion　exceedingly；　for　it　was　the　first　time　I　had　been　high　enough　on　a　mountain　near　the　Equator　to　watch　the　change　from　a　tropical　to　a　temperate　flora。　I　will　now　briefly　sketch　these　changes　as　I　observed　them　in　Java。

On　ascending　the　mountain；　we　first　meet　with　temperate　forms　of　herbaceous　plants；　so　low　as　3；000　feet；　where　strawberries　and　violets　begin　to　grow；　but　the　former　are　tasteless；　and　the　latter　have　very　small　and　pale　flowers。　Weedy　composites　also　begin　to　give　a　European　aspect　to　the　wayside　herbage。　It　is　between　2；000　and　5；000　feet　that　the　forests　and　ravines　exhibit　the　utmost　development　of　tropical　luxuriance　and　beauty。　The　abundance　of　noble　Tree…ferns；　sometimes　fifty　feet　high；　contributes　greatly　to　the　general　effect；　since　of　all　the　forms　of　tropical　vegetation　they　are　certainly　the　most　striking　and　beautiful。　Some　of　the　deep　ravines　which　have　been　cleared　of　large　timber　are　full　of　them　from　top　to　bottom；　and　where　the　road　crosses　one　of　these　valleys；　the　view　of　their　feathery　crowns；　in　varied　positions　above　and　below　the　eye；　offers　a　spectacle　of　picturesque　beauty　never　to　be　forgotten。　The　splendid　foliage　of　the　broad…leaved　Musceae　and　Zingiberaceae；　with　their　curious　and　brilliant　flowers；　and　the　elegant　and　varied　forms　of　plants　allied　to　Begonia　and　Melastoma；　continually　attract　the　attention　in　this　region。　Filling　in　the　spaces　between　the　trees　and　larger　plants；　on　every　trunk　and　stump　and　branch；　are　hosts　of　Orchids；　Ferns　and　Lycopods；　which　wave　and　hang　and　intertwine　in　ever…varying　complexity。　At　about　5；000　feet　I　first　saw　horsetails　（Equisetum）；　very　like　our　own　species。　At　6；000　feet；　raspberries　abound；　and　thence　to　the　summit　of　the　mountain　there　are　three　species　of　eatable　Rubus。　At　7；000　feet　Cypresses　appear；　and　the　forest　trees　become　reduced　in　size；　and　more　covered　with　mosses　and　lichens。　From　this　point　upward　these　rapidly　increase；　so　that　the　blocks　of　rock　and　scoria　that　form　the　mountain　slope　are　completely　hidden　in　a　mossy　vegetation。　At　about　5；000　feet　European　forms　of　plants　become　abundant。　Several　species　of　Honeysuckle；　St。　John's…wort；　and　Guelder…rose　abound；　and　at　about　9；000　feet　we　first　meet　with　the　rare　and　beautiful　Royal　Cowslip　（Primula　imperialis）；　which　is　said　to　be　found　nowhere　else　in　the　world　but　on　this　solitary　mountain　summit。　It　has　a　tall；　stout　stem；　sometimes　more　than　three　feet　high；　the　root　leaves　are　eighteen　inches　long；　and　it　bears　several　whorls　of　cowslip…like　flowers；　instead　of　a　terminal　cluster　only。　The　forest　trees；　gnarled　and　dwarfed　to　the　dimensions　of　bushes；　reach　up　to