the malay archipelago-1-第28章

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y　road　and　pathway　shows　a　foundation　of　brickwork　beneath　itthe　paved　roads　of　the　old　city。　In　the　house　of　the　Waidono　or　district　chief　at　Modjo…　agong；　I　saw　a　beautiful　figure　carved　in　high　relief　out　of　a　block　of　lava；　and　which　had　been　found　buried　in　the　ground　near　the　village。　On　my　expressing　a　wish　to　obtain　some　such　specimen；　Mr。　B。　asked　the　chief　for　it；　and　much　to　my　surprise　he　immediately　gave　it　me。　It　represented　the　Hindu　goddess　Durga；　called　in　Java；　Lora　Jonggrang　（the　exalted　virgin）。　She　has　eight　arms；　and　stands　on　the　back　of　a　kneeling　bull。　Her　lower　right　hand　holds　the　tail　of　the　bull；　while　the　corresponding　left　hand　grasps　the　hair　of　a　captive；　Dewth　Mahikusor；　the　personification　of　vice；　who　has　attempted　to　slay　her　bull。　He　has　a　cord　round　his　waist；　and　crouches　at　her　feet　in　an　attitude　of　supplication。　The　other　hands　of　the　goddess　hold；　on　her　right　side；　a　double　hook　or　small　anchor；　a　broad　straight　sword；　and　a　noose　of　thick　cord；　on　her　left；　a　girdle　or　armlet　of　large　beads　or　shells；　an　unstrung　bow；　and　a　standard　or　war　flag。　This　deity　was　a　special　favourite　among　the　old　Javanese；　and　her　image　is　often　found　in　the　ruined　temples　which　abound　in　the　eastern　part　of　the　island。

The　specimen　I　had　obtained　was　a　small　one；　about　two　feet　high；　weighing　perhaps　a　hundredweight；　and　the　next　day　we　had　it　conveyed　to　Modjo…Kerto　to　await　my　return　to　Sourabaya。　Having　decided　to　stay　some　time　at　Wonosalem；　on　the　lower　slopes　of　the　Arjuna　Mountain；　where　I　was　informed　I　should　find　forest　and　plenty　of　game；　I　had　first　to　obtain　a　recommendation　from　the　Assistant　Resident　to　the　Regent；　and　then　an　order　from　the　Regent　to　the　Waidono；　and　when　after　a　week's　delay　I　arrived　with　my　baggage　and　men　at　Modjo…agong；　I　found　them　all　in　the　midst　of　a　five　days'　feast；　to　celebrate　the　circumcision　of　the　Waidono's　younger　brother　and　cousin；　and　had　a　small　room　in　an　on　outhouse　given　me　to　stay　in。　The　courtyard　and　the　great　open　reception…shed　were　full　of　natives　coming　and　going　and　making　preparations　for　a　feast　which　was　to　take　place　at　midnight；　to　which　I　was　invited；　but　preferred　going　to　bed。　A　native　band；　or　Gamelang；　was　playing　almost　all　the　evening；　and　I　had　a　good　opportunity　of　seeing　the　instruments　and　musicians。　The　former　are　chiefly　gongs　of　various　sizes；　arranged　in　sets　of　from　eight　to　twelve；　on　low　wooden　frames。　Each　set　is　played　by　one　performer　with　one　or　two　drumsticks。　There　are　also　some　very　large　gongs；　played　singly　or　in　pairs；　and　taking　the　place　of　our　drums　and　kettledrums。　Other　instruments　are　formed　by　broad　metallic　bars；　supported　on　strings　stretched　across　frames；　and　others　again　of　strips　of　bamboo　similarly　placed　and　producing　the　highest　notes。　Besides　these　there　were　a　flute　and　a　curious　two…stringed　violin；　requiring　in　all　twenty…four　performers。　There　was　a　conductor；　who　led　off　and　regulated　the　time；　and　each　performer　took　his　part；　coming　in　occasionally　with　a　few　bars　so　as　to　form　a　harmonious　combination。　The　pieces　played　were　long　and　complicated；　and　some　of　the　players　were　mere　boys；　who　took　their　parts　with　great　precision。　The　general　effect　was　very　pleasing；　but；　owing　to　the　similarity　of　most　of　the　instruments；　more　like　a　gigantic　musical　box　than　one　of　our　bands；　and　in　order　to　enjoy　it　thoroughly　it　is　necessary　to　watch　the　large　number　of　performers　who　are　engaged　in　it。　The　next　morning；　while　I　was　waiting　for　the　men　and　horses　who　were　to　take　me　and　my　baggage　to　my　destination；　the　two　lads；　who　were　about　fourteen　years　old；　were　brought　out；　clothed　in　a　sarong　from　the　waist　downwards；　and　having　the　whole　body　covered　with　yellow　powder；　and　profusely　decked　with　white　blossom　in　wreaths；　necklaces；　and　armlets；　looking　at　first　sight　very　like　savage　brides。　They　were　conducted　by　two　priests　to　a　bench　placed　in　front　of　the　house　in　the　open　air；　and　the　ceremony　of　circumcision　was　then　performed　before　the　assembled　crowd。

The　road　to　Wonosalem　led　through　a　magnificent　forest　in　the　depths　of　which　we　passed　a　fine　ruin　of　what　appeared　to　have　been　a　royal　tomb　or　mausoleum。　It　is　formed　entirely　of　stone；　and　elaborately　carved。　Near　the　base　is　a　course　of　boldly　projecting　blocks；　sculptured　in　high　relief；　with　a　series　of　scenes　which　are　probably　incidents　in　the　life　of　the　defunct。　These　are　all　beautifully　executed；　some　of　the　figures　of　animals　in　particular；　being　easily　recognisable　and　very　accurate。　The　general　design；　as　far　as　the　ruined　state　of　the　upper　part　will　permit　of　its　being　seen；　is　very　good；　effect　being　given　by　an　immense　number　and　variety　of　projecting　or　retreating　courses　of　squared　stones　in　place　of　mouldings。　The　size　of　this　structure　is　about　thirty　feet　square　by　twenty　high；　and　as　the　traveller　comes　suddenly　upon　it　on　a　small　elevation　by　the　roadside；　overshadowed　by　gigantic　trees；　overrun　with　plants　and　creepers；　and　closely　backed　by　the　gloomy　forest；　he　is　struck　by　the　solemnity　and　picturesque　beauty　of　the　scene；　and　is　led　to　ponder　on　the　strange　law　of　progress；　which　looks　so　like　retrogression；　and　which　in　so　many　distant　parts　of　the　world　has　exterminated　or　driven　out　a　highly　artistic　and　constructive　race；　to　make　room　for　one　which；　as　far　as　we　can　judge；　is　very　far　its　inferior。

Few　Englishmen　are　aware　of　the　number　and　beauty　of　the　architectural　remains　in　Java。　They　have　never　been　popularly　illustrated　or　described；　and　it　will　therefore　take　most　persons　by　surprise　to　learn　that　they　far　surpass　those　of　Central　America；　perhaps　even　those　of　India。　To　give　some　idea　of　these　ruins；　and　perchance　to　excite　wealthy　amateurs　to　explore　them　thoroughly　and　obtain　by　photography　an　accurate　record　of　their　beautiful　sculptures　before　it　is　too　late；　I　will　enumerate　the　most　important；　as　briefly　described　in　Sir　Stamford　Raffles'　〃History　of　Java。〃

BRAMBANAM。Near　the　centre　of　Java；　between　the　native　capitals　of　Djoko…kerta　and　Surakerta；　is　the　village　of　Brambanam；　near　which　are　abundance　of　ruins；　the　most　important　being　the　temples　of　Loro…Jongran　and　Chandi　Sewa。　At　Loro…Jongran　there　were　twenty　separate　buildings；　six　large　and　fourteen　small　temples。　They　are　now　a　mass　of　ruins；　but　the　largest　temples　are　supposed　to　have　been　ninety　feet　high。　They　were　all　constructed　of　solid　stone；　everywhere　decorated　with　carvings　and　bas…reliefs；　and　adorned　with　numbers　of　statues；　many　of　which　still　remain　entire。　At　Chandi　Sewa；　or　the　〃Thousand　Temples；〃　are　many　fine　colossal　figures。　Captain　Baker；　who　surveyed　these　ruins；　said　he　had　never　in　his　life　seen　〃such　stupendous　and　finished　specimens　of　human　labour；　and　of　the　science　and　taste　of　ages　long　since　forgot；　crowded　together　in　so　small　a　compass　as　in　this　spot。〃　They　cover　a　space　of　nearly　six　hundred　feet　square；　and　consist　of　an　outer　row　of　eighty…　four　small　temples；　a　second　row　of　seventy…six；　a　third　of　sixty…four；　a　fourth　of　forty…four；　and　the　fifth　forming　an　inner　parallelogram　of　twenty…eight；　in　all　two　hundred　and　ninety…six　small　temples；　disposed　in　five　regular　parallelograms。　In　the　centre　is　a　large　cruciform　temple　surrounded　by　lofty　flights　of　steps　richly　ornamented　with　sculpture；　and　containing　many　apartments。　The　tropical　vegetation　has　ruined　most　of　the　smaller　temples；　but　some　remain　tolerably　perfect；　from　which　the　effect　of　the　whole　may　be　imagined。

About　half　a　mile　off　is　another　temple；　called　Chandi　Kali　Bening；　seventy…two　feet　square　and　sixty　feet　high；　in　very　fine　preservation；　and　covered　with　sculptures　of　Hindu　mythology　surpassing　any　that　exist　in　India；　other　ruins　of　palaces；　halls；　and　temples；　with　abundance　of　sculptured　deities；　are　found　in　the　same　neighbourhood。

BOROBODO。About　eighty　miles　westward；　in　the　province　of　Kedu；　is　the　great　temple　of　Borobodo。　It　is　built　upon　a　small　hill；　and　consists　of　a　central　dome　and　seven　ranges　of　terraced　walls　covering　the　slope　of　the　hill　and　forming　open　galleries　each　below　the　other；　and　communicating　by　steps　and　gateways。　The　central　dome　is　fifty　feet　in　diameter；　around　it　is　a