the uncommercial traveller-第65章
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sort; my lad!' 'Try our sea…going mixed; at two and nine!' 'The
right kit for the British tar!' 'Ship ahoy!' 'Splice the main…
brace; brother!' 'Come; cheer up; my lads。 We've the best liquors
here; And you'll find something new In our wonderful Beer!' Down
by the Docks; the pawnbroker lends money on Union…Jack pocket…
handkerchiefs; on watches with little ships pitching fore and aft
on the dial; on telescopes; nautical instruments in cases; and
such…like。 Down by the Docks; the apothecary sets up in business
on the wretchedest scale … chiefly on lint and plaster for the
strapping of wounds … and with no bright bottles; and with no
little drawers。 Down by the Docks; the shabby undertaker's shop
will bury you for next to nothing; after the Malay or Chinaman has
stabbed you for nothing at all: so you can hardly hope to make a
cheaper end。 Down by the Docks; anybody drunk will quarrel with
anybody drunk or sober; and everybody else will have a hand in it;
and on the shortest notice you may revolve in a whirlpool of red
shirts; shaggy beards; wild heads of hair; bare tattooed arms;
Britannia's daughters; malice; mud; maundering; and madness。 Down
by the Docks; scraping fiddles go in the public…houses all day
long; and; shrill above their din and all the din; rises the
screeching of innumerable parrots brought from foreign parts; who
appear to be very much astonished by what they find on these native
shores of ours。 Possibly the parrots don't know; possibly they do;
that Down by the Docks is the road to the Pacific Ocean; with its
lovely islands; where the savage girls plait flowers; and the
savage boys carve cocoa…nut shells; and the grim blind idols muse
in their shady groves to exactly the same purpose as the priests
and chiefs。 And possibly the parrots don't know; possibly they do;
that the noble savage is a wearisome impostor wherever he is; and
has five hundred thousand volumes of indifferent rhyme; and no
reason; to answer for。
Shadwell church! Pleasant whispers of there being a fresher air
down the river than down by the Docks; go pursuing one another;
playfully; in and out of the openings in its spire。 Gigantic in
the basin just beyond the church; looms my Emigrant Ship: her
name; the Amazon。 Her figure…head is not disfigured as those
beauteous founders of the race of strong…minded women are fabled to
have been; for the convenience of drawing the bow; but I sympathise
with the carver:
A flattering carver who made it his care
To carve busts as they ought to be … not as they were。
My Emigrant Ship lies broadside…on to the wharf。 Two great
gangways made of spars and planks connect her with the wharf; and
up and down these gangways; perpetually crowding to and fro and in
and out; like ants; are the Emigrants who are going to sail in my
Emigrant Ship。 Some with cabbages; some with loaves of bread; some
with cheese and butter; some with milk and beer; some with boxes;
beds; and bundles; some with babies … nearly all with children …
nearly all with bran…new tin cans for their daily allowance of
water; uncomfortably suggestive of a tin flavour in the drink。 To
and fro; up and down; aboard and ashore; swarming here and there
and everywhere; my Emigrants。 And still as the Dock…Gate swings
upon its hinges; cabs appear; and carts appear; and vans appear;
bringing more of my Emigrants; with more cabbages; more loaves;
more cheese and butter; more milk and beer; more boxes; beds; and
bundles; more tin cans; and on those shipping investments
accumulated compound interest of children。
I go aboard my Emigrant Ship。 I go first to the great cabin; and
find it in the usual condition of a Cabin at that pass。 Perspiring
landsmen; with loose papers; and with pens and inkstands; pervade
it; and the general appearance of things is as if the late Mr。
Amazon's funeral had just come home from the cemetery; and the
disconsolate Mrs。 Amazon's trustees found the affairs in great
disorder; and were looking high and low for the will。 I go out on
the poop…deck; for air; and surveying the emigrants on the deck
below (indeed they are crowded all about me; up there too); find
more pens and inkstands in action; and more papers; and
interminable complication respecting accounts with individuals for
tin cans and what not。 But nobody is in an ill…temper; nobody is
the worse for drink; nobody swears an oath or uses a coarse word;
nobody appears depressed; nobody is weeping; and down upon the deck
in every corner where it is possible to find a few square feet to
kneel; crouch; or lie in; people; in every unsuitable attitude for
writing; are writing letters。
Now; I have seen emigrant ships before this day in June。 And these
people are so strikingly different from all other people in like
circumstances whom I have ever seen; that I wonder aloud; 'What
WOULD a stranger suppose these emigrants to be!'
The vigilant; bright face of the weather…browned captain of the
Amazon is at my shoulder; and he says; 'What; indeed! The most of
these came aboard yesterday evening。 They came from various parts
of England in small parties that had never seen one another before。
Yet they had not been a couple of hours on board; when they
established their own police; made their own regulations; and set
their own watches at all the hatchways。 Before nine o'clock; the
ship was as orderly and as quiet as a man…of…war。'
I looked about me again; and saw the letter…writing going on with
the most curious composure。 Perfectly abstracted in the midst of
the crowd; while great casks were swinging aloft; and being lowered
into the hold; while hot agents were hurrying up and down;
adjusting the interminable accounts; while two hundred strangers
were searching everywhere for two hundred other strangers; and were
asking questions about them of two hundred more; while the children
played up and down all the steps; and in and out among all the
people's legs; and were beheld; to the general dismay; toppling
over all the dangerous places; the letter…writers wrote on calmly。
On the starboard side of the ship; a grizzled man dictated a long
letter to another grizzled man in an immense fur cap: which letter
was of so profound a quality; that it became necessary for the
amanuensis at intervals to take off his fur cap in both his hands;
for the ventilation of his brain; and stare at him who dictated; as
a man of many mysteries who was worth looking at。 On the lar…board
side; a woman had covered a belaying…pin with a white cloth to make
a neat desk of it; and was sitting on a little box; writing with
the deliberation of a bookkeeper。 Down; upon her breast on the
planks of the deck at this woman's feet; with her head diving in
under a beam of the bulwarks on that side; as an eligible place of
refuge for her sheet of paper; a neat and pretty girl wrote for a
good hour (she fainted at last); only rising to the surface
occasionally for a dip of ink。 Alongside the boat; close to me on
the poop…deck; another girl; a fresh; well…grown country girl; was
writing another letter on the bare deck。 Later in the day; when
this self…same boat was filled with a choir who sang glees and
catches for a long time; one of the singers; a girl; sang her part
mechanically all the while; and wrote a letter in the bottom of the
boat while doing so。
'A stranger would be puzzled to guess the right name for these
people; Mr。 Uncommercial;' says the captain。
'Indeed he would。'
'If you hadn't known; could you ever have supposed … ?'
'How could I! I should have said they were in their degree; the
pick and flower of England。'
'So should I;' says the captain。
'How many are they?'
'Eight hundred in round numbers。'
I went between…decks; where the families with children swarmed in
the dark; where unavoidable confusion had been caused by the last
arrivals; and where the confusi