wild wales-第94章
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spectral chimneys as high as steeples； also smoky buildings； and
grimy figures moving about。 There was a clanging of engines； a
noise of shovels and a falling of coals truly horrible。 The glare
was so great that I could distinctly see the minutest lines upon my
hand。 Advancing along the tramway I obtained a nearer view of the
hellish buildings； the chimneys； and the demoniac figures。 It was
just such a scene as one of those described by Ellis Wynn in his
Vision of Hell。 Feeling my eyes scorching I turned away； and
proceeded towards Llangollen； sometimes on the muddy road；
sometimes on the dangerous causeway。 For three miles at least I
met nobody。 Near Llangollen； as I was walking on the causeway；
three men came swiftly towards me。 I kept the hedge； which was my
right； the two first brushed roughly past me； the third came full
upon me and was tumbled into the road。 There was a laugh from the
two first and a loud curse from the last as he sprawled in the
mire。 I merely said 〃Nos Da'ki；〃 and passed on； and in about a
quarter of an hour reached home； where I found my wife awaiting me
alone； Henrietta having gone to bed being slightly indisposed。 My
wife received me with a cheerful smile。 I looked at her and the
good wife of the Triad came to my mind。
〃She is modest； void of deceit； and obedient。
〃Pure of conscience； gracious of tongue； and true to her husband。
〃Her heart not proud； her manners affable； and her bosom full of
compassion for the poor。
〃Labouring to be tidy； skilful of hand； and fond of praying to God。
〃Her conversation amiable； her dress decent； and her house orderly。
〃Quick of hand； quick of eye； and quick of understanding。
〃Her person shapely； her manners agreeable； and her heart innocent。
〃Her face benignant； her head intelligent； and provident。
〃Neighbourly； gentle； and of a liberal way of thinking。
〃Able in directing； providing what is wanting； and a good mother to
her children。
〃Loving her husband； loving peace； and loving God。
〃Happy the man；〃 adds the Triad； 〃who possesses such a wife。〃 Very
true； O Triad； always provided he is in some degree worthy of her；
but many a man leaves an innocent wife at home for an impure
Jezebel abroad； even as many a one prefers a pint of hog's wash
abroad to a tankard of generous liquor at home。
CHAPTER LXIII
Preparations for Departure … Cat provided for … A Pleasant Party …
Last Night at Llangollen。
I WAS awakened early on the Sunday morning by the howling of wind。
There was a considerable storm throughout the day； but
unaccompanied by rain。 I went to church both in the morning and
the evening。 The next day there was a great deal of rain。 It was
now the latter end of October； winter was coming on； and my wife
and daughter were anxious to return home。 After some consultation
it was agreed that they should depart for London； and that I should
join them there after making a pedestrian tour in South Wales。
I should have been loth to quit Wales without visiting the
Deheubarth or Southern Region； a land differing widely； as I had
heard； both in language and customs from Gwynedd or the Northern； a
land which had given birth to the illustrious Ab Gwilym； and where
the great Ryce family had flourished； which very much distinguished
itself in the Wars of the Roses … a member of which Ryce ap Thomas
placed Henry the Seventh on the throne of Britain … a family of
royal extraction； and which after the death of Roderic the Great
for a long time enjoyed the sovereignty of the south。
We set about making the necessary preparations for our respective
journeys。 Those for mine were soon made。 I bought a small leather
satchel with a lock and key； in which I placed a white linen shirt；
a pair of worsted stockings； a razor and a prayer…book。 Along with
it I bought a leather strap with which to sling it over my
shoulder： I got my boots new soled； my umbrella； which was rather
dilapidated； mended； put twenty sovereigns into my purse； and then
said I am all right for the Deheubarth。
As my wife and daughter required much more time in making
preparations for their journey than I for mine； and as I should
only be in their way whilst they were employed； it was determined
that I should depart on my expedition on Thursday； and that they
should remain at Llangollen till the Saturday。
We were at first in some perplexity with respect to the disposal of
the ecclesiastical cat； it would of course not do to leave it in
the garden to the tender mercies of the Calvinistic Methodists of
the neighbourhood； more especially those of the flannel
manufactory； and my wife and daughter could hardly carry it with
them。 At length we thought of applying to a young woman of sound
church principles； who was lately married and lived over the water
on the way to the railroad station； with whom we were slightly
acquainted； to take charge of the animal； and she on the first
intimation of our wish； willingly acceded to it。 So with her poor
puss was left along with a trifle for its milk…money； and with her；
as we subsequently learned； it continued in peace and comfort till
one morning it sprang suddenly from the hearth into the air； gave a
mew； and died。 So much for the ecclesiastical cat！
The morning of Tuesday was rather fine； and Mr Ebenezer E…； who had
heard of our intended departure； came to invite us to spend the
evening at the Vicarage。 His father had left Llangollen the day
before for Chester； where he expected to be detained some days。 I
told him we should be most happy to come。 He then asked me to take
a walk。 I agreed with pleasure； and we set out； intending to go to
Llansilio at the western end of the valley and look at the church。
The church was an ancient building。 It had no spire； but had the
little erection on its roof； so usual to Welsh churches； for
holding a bell。
In the churchyard is a tomb in which an old squire of the name of
Jones was buried about the middle of the last century。 There is a
tradition about this squire and tomb to the following effect。
After the squire's death there was a lawsuit about his property； in
consequence of no will having been found。 It was said that his
will had been buried with him in the tomb； which after some time
was opened； but with what success the tradition sayeth not。
In the evening we went to the Vicarage。 Besides the family and
ourselves there was Mr R… and one or two more。 We had a very
pleasant party； and as most of those present wished to hear
something connected with Spain； I talked much about that country；
sang songs of Germania； and related in an abridged form Lope de
Vega's ghost story； which is decidedly the best ghost story in the
world。
In the afternoon of Wednesday I went and took leave of certain
friends in the town； amongst others of old Mr Jones。 On my telling
him that I was about to leave Llangollen； he expressed considerable
regret； but said that it was natural for me to wish to return to my
native country。 I told him that before returning to England I
intended to make a pedestrian tour in South Wales。 He said that he
should die without seeing the south； that he had had several
opportunities of visiting it when he was young； which he had
neglected； and that he was now too old to wander far from home。 He
then asked me which road I intended to take。 I told him that I
intended to strike across the Berwyn to Llan Rhyadr； then visit
Sycharth； once the seat of Owain Glendower； lying to the east of
Llan Rhyadr； then return to that place； and after seeing the
celebrated cataract across the mountains to Bala … whence I should
proceed due south。 I then asked him whether he had ever seen
Sycharth and the Rhyadr； he told me that he had never visited
Sycharth； but had seen the Rhyadr more than once。 He then smiled
and said that there was a ludicrous anecdote connected with the
Rhyadr； which he would relate to me。 〃A traveller once went to see
the Rhyadr； and whilst gazing at it a calf which had fallen into
the stream above； whilst grazing upon the rocks
