wild wales-第82章
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whilst working at a saw…mill up at the castle。 On my inquiring
about the inn he said he was the master of it； and led the way to a
long neat low house； nearly opposite to a little bridge over a
brook； which ran down the valley towards the north。 I ordered some
ale and bread…and…butter； and whilst our repast was being got ready
John Jones and I went to the bridge。
〃This bridge； sir；〃 said John； 〃is called Pont y Velin Castell； the
bridge of the Castle Mill； the inn was formerly the mill of the
castle； and is still called Melin y Castell。 As soon as you are
over this bridge you are in shire Amwythig； which the Saxons call
Shropshire。 A little way up on yon hill is Clawdd Offa or Offa's
dyke； built of old by the Brenin Offa in order to keep us poor
Welsh within our bounds。〃
As we stood on the bridge I inquired of Jones the name of the brook
which was running merrily beneath it。
〃The Ceiriog； sir；〃 said John； 〃the same river that we saw at Pont
y Meibion。〃
〃The river；〃 said I； 〃which Huw Morris loved so well； whose praises
he has sung； and which he has introduced along with Cefn Uchaf in a
stanza in which he describes the hospitality of Chirk Castle in his
day； and which runs thus：
〃Pe byddai 'r Cefn Ucha；
Yn gig ac yn fara；
A Cheiriog fawr yma'n fir aml bob tro；
Rhy ryfedd fae iddyn'
Barhau hanner blwyddyn；
I wyr bob yn gan…nyn ar ginio。〃
〃A good penill that； sir；〃 said John Jones。 〃Pity that the halls
of great people no longer flow with rivers of beer； nor have
mountains of bread and beef for all comers。〃
〃No pity at all；〃 said I； 〃things are better as they are。 Those
mountains of bread and beef； and those rivers of ale merely
encouraged vassalage； fawning and idleness； better to pay for one's
dinner proudly and independently at one's inn； than to go and
cringe for it at a great man's table。〃
We crossed the bridge； walked a little way up the hill which was
beautifully wooded； and then retraced our steps to the little inn；
where I found my wife and daughter waiting for us； and very hungry。
We sat down； John Jones with us； and proceeded to despatch our
bread…and…butter and ale。 The bread…and…butter were good enough；
but the ale poorish。 Oh； for an Act of Parliament to force people
to brew good ale！ After finishing our humble meal； we got up and
having paid our reckoning went back into the park； the gate of
which the landlord again unlocked for us。
We strolled towards the north along the base of the hill。 The
imagination of man can scarcely conceive a scene more beautiful
than the one which we were now enjoying。 Huge oaks studded the
lower side of the hill； towards the top was a belt of forest； above
which rose the eastern walls of the castle； the whole forest；
castle and the green bosom of the hill glorified by the lustre of
the sun。 As we proceeded we again roused the deer； and again saw
three old black fellows； evidently the patriarchs of the herds；
with their white enormous horns； with these ancient gentlefolks I
very much wished to make acquaintance； and tried to get near them；
but no！ they would suffer no such thing； off they glided； their
white antlers； like the barked top boughs of old pollards； glancing
in the sunshine； the smaller dapple creatures following them
bounding and frisking。 We had again got very near the castle； when
John Jones told me that if we would follow him he would show us
something very remarkable； I asked him what it was。
〃Llun Cawr；〃 he replied。 〃The figure of a giant。〃
〃What giant？〃 said I。
But on this point he could give me no information。 I told my wife
and daughter what he had said； and finding that they wished to see
the figure； I bade John Jones lead us to it。 He led us down an
avenue just below the eastern side of the castle； noble oaks and
other trees composed it； some of them probably near a hundred feet
high； John Jones observing me looking at them with admiration；
said：
〃They would make fine chests for the dead； sir。〃
What an observation！ how calculated； amidst the most bounding joy
and bliss； to remind man of his doom！ A moment before I had felt
quite happy； but now I felt sad and mournful。 I looked at my wife
and daughter； who were gazing admiringly on the beauteous scenes
around them； and remembered that in a few short years at most we
should all three be laid in the cold narrow house formed of four
elm or oaken boards； our only garment the flannel shroud； the cold
damp earth above us； instead of the bright glorious sky。 Oh； how
sad and mournful I became！ I soon comforted myself； however； by
reflecting that such is the will of Heaven； and that Heaven is
good。
After we had descended the avenue some way John Jones began to look
about him； and getting on the bank on the left side disappeared。
We went on； and in a little time saw him again beckoning to us some
way farther down； but still on the bank。 When we drew nigh to him
he bade us get on the bank； we did so and followed him some way；
midst furze and lyng。 All of a sudden he exclaimed； 〃There it is！〃
We looked and saw a large figure standing on a pedestal。 On going
up to it we found it to be a Hercules leaning on his club； indeed a
copy of the Farnese Hercules； as we gathered from an inscription in
Latin partly defaced。 We felt rather disappointed； as we expected
that it would have turned out to be the figure of some huge Welsh
champion of old。 We； however； said nothing to our guide。 John
Jones； in order that we might properly appreciate the size of the
statue by contrasting it with his own body； got upon the pedestal
and stood up beside the figure； to the elbow of which his head
little more than reached。
I told him that in my country； the eastern part of Lloegr； I had
seen a man quite as tall as the statue。
〃Indeed； sir；〃 said he； 〃who is it？〃
〃Hales the Norfolk giant；〃 I replied； 〃who has a sister seven
inches shorter than himself； who is yet seven inches taller than
any man in the county when her brother is out of it。〃
When John Jones got down he asked me who the man was whom the
statue was intended to represent。
〃Erchwl；〃 I replied； 〃a mighty man of old； who with club cleared
the country of thieves； serpents； and monsters。〃
I now proposed that we should return to Llangollen； whereupon we
retraced our steps； and had nearly reached the farm…house of the
castle when John Jones said that we had better return by the low
road； by doing which we should see the castle…lodge and also its
gate which was considered one of the wonders of Wales。 We followed
his advice and passing by the front of the castle northwards soon
came to the lodge。 The lodge had nothing remarkable in its
appearance； but the gate which was of iron was truly magnificent。
On the top were two figures of wolves which John Jones supposed to
be those of foxes。 The wolf of Chirk is not intended to be
expressive of the northern name of its proprietor； but as the
armorial bearing of his family by the maternal side； and originated
in one Ryred； surnamed Blaidd or Wolf from his ferocity in war；
from whom the family； which only assumed the name of Middleton in
the beginning of the thirteenth century； on the occasion of its
representative marrying a rich Shropshire heiress of that name；
traces descent。
The wolf of Chirk is a Cambrian not a Gothic wolf； and though 〃a
wolf of battle；〃 is the wolf not of Biddulph but of Ryred。
CHAPTER LV
A Visitor … Apprenticeship to the Law … Croch Daranau … Lope de
Vega … No Life like the Traveller's。
ONE morning as I sat alone a gentleman was announced。 On his
entrance I recognised in him the magistrate's clerk； owing to whose
good word； as it appeared to me； I had been permitted to remain
during the examination into the affair of the wounded butcher。 He
was a stout； strong…made man； somewhat under the middle height；
with a ruddy face； and very clear； grey eyes。 I handed him a
chair； which he took； and said that his name was R…； and that he
had taken the liberty of calling； as he had a great desire to be
acquainted with m
