wild wales-第81章
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which stands on a green grassy slope； from which it derives its
Welsh name of Castell y Waen； gwaen in the Cumrian language
signifying a meadow or uninclosed place。 It fronts the west； the
direction from which we were coming； on each side it shows five
towers； of which the middlemost； which protrudes beyond the rest；
and at the bottom of which is the grand gate； is by far the
bulkiest。 A noble edifice it looked； and to my eye bore no slight
resemblance to Windsor Castle。
Seeing a kind of ranger； we inquired of him what it was necessary
for us to do； and by his direction proceeded to the southern side
of the castle； and rung the bell at a small gate。 The southern
side had a far more antique appearance than the western； huge
towers with small windows； and partly covered with ivy； frowned
down upon us。 A servant making his appearance； I inquired whether
we could see the house； he said we could； and that the housekeeper
would show it to us in a little time but that at present she was
engaged。 We entered a large quadrangular court： on the left…hand
side was a door and staircase leading into the interior of the
building； and farther on was a gateway； which was no doubt the
principal entrance from the park。 On the eastern side of the
spacious court was a kennel； chained to which was an enormous dog；
partly of the bloodhound； partly of the mastiff species； who
occasionally uttered a deep magnificent bay。 As the sun was hot；
we took refuge from it under the gateway； the gate of which； at the
further end； towards the park； was closed。 Here my wife and
daughter sat down on a small brass cannon； seemingly a six…pounder；
which stood on a very dilapidated carriage； from the appearance of
the gun； which was of an ancient form； and very much battered； and
that of the carriage； I had little doubt that both had been in the
castle at the time of the siege。 As my two loved ones sat； I
walked up and down； recalling to my mind all I had heard and read
in connection with this castle。 I thought of its gallant defence
against the men of Oliver； I thought of its roaring hospitality in
the time of the fourth Sir Thomas； and I thought of the many
beauties who had been born in its chambers； had danced in its
halls； had tripped across its court； and had subsequently given
heirs to illustrious families。
At last we were told that she housekeeper was waiting for us。 The
housekeeper； who was a genteel； good…looking young woman； welcomed
us at the door which led into the interior of the house。 After we
had written our names； she showed us into a large room or hall on
the right…hand side on the ground floor； where were some helmets
and ancient halberts； and also some pictures of great personages。
The floor was of oak； and so polished and slippery； that walking
upon it was attended with some danger。 Wishing that John Jones；
our faithful attendant； who remained timidly at the doorway； should
participate with us in the wonderful sights we were about to see； I
inquired of the housekeeper whether he might come with us。 She
replied with a smile that it was not the custom to admit guides
into the apartments； but that he might come； provided he chose to
take off his shoes； adding； that the reason she wished him to take
off his shoes was； an apprehension that if he kept them on he would
injure the floors with their rough nails。 She then went to John
Jones； and told him in English that he might attend us； provided he
took off his shoes； poor John； however； only smiled and said 〃Dim
Saesneg！〃
〃You must speak to him in your native language；〃 said I； 〃provided
you wish him to understand you … he has no English。〃
〃I am speaking to him in my native language；〃 said the young
housekeeper； with another smile … 〃and if he has no English； I have
no Welsh。〃
〃Then you are English？〃 said I。
〃Yes；〃 she replied； 〃a native of London。〃
〃Dear me；〃 said I。 〃Well； it's no bad thing to be English after
all； and as for not speaking Welsh； there are many in Wales who
would be glad to have much less Welsh than they have。〃 I then told
John Jones the condition on which he might attend us； whereupon he
took off his shoes with great glee and attended us； holding them in
his hand。
We presently went upstairs； to what the housekeeper told us was the
principal drawing…room； and a noble room it was； hung round with
the portraits of kings and queens； and the mighty of the earth。
Here； on canvas； was noble Mary； the wife of William of Orange； and
her consort by her side； whose part like a true wife she always
took。 Here was wretched Mary of Scotland； the murderess of her own
lord。 Here were the two Charleses and both the Dukes of Ormond …
the great Duke who fought stoutly in Ireland against Papist and
Roundhead； and the Pretender's Duke who tried to stab his native
land； and died a foreign colonel。 And here； amongst other
daughters of the house； was the very proud daughter of the house；
the Warwick Dowager who married the Spectator； and led him the life
of a dog。 She looked haughty and cold； and not particularly
handsome； but I could not help gazing with a certain degree of
interest and respect on the countenance of the vixen； who served
out the gentility worshipper in such prime style。 Many were the
rooms which we entered； of which I shall say nothing； save that
they were noble in size and rich in objects of interest。 At last
we came to what was called the picture gallery。 It was a long
panelled room； extending nearly the whole length of the northern
side。 The first thing which struck us on entering was the huge
skin of a lion stretched out upon the floor； the head； however；
which was towards the door； was stuffed； and with its monstrous
teeth looked so formidable and life…like； that we were almost
afraid to touch it。 Against every panel was a portrait； amongst
others was that of Sir Thomas Middleton； the stout governor of the
castle； during the time of the siege。 Near to it was the portrait
of his rib； Dame Middleton。 Farther down on the same side were two
portraits of Nell Gwynn； the one painted when she was a girl； the
other when she had attained a more mature age。 They were both by
Lely； the Apelles of the Court of wanton Charles。 On the other
side was one of the Duke of Gloucester； the son of Queen Anne； who；
had he lived； would have kept the Georges from the throne。 In this
gallery on the southern side was a cabinet of ebony and silver；
presented by Charles the Second to the brave warrior Sir Thomas；
and which； according to tradition； cost seven thousand pounds。
This room； which was perhaps the most magnificent in the castle；
was the last we visited。 The candle of God； whilst we wandered
through these magnificent halls； was flaming in the firmament； and
its rays； penetrating through the long narrow windows； showed them
off； and all the gorgeous things which they contained to great
advantage。 When we left the castle we all said； not excepting John
Jones； that we had never seen in our lives anything more princely
and delightful than the interior。
After a little time； my wife and daughter complaining of being
rather faint； I asked John Jones whether there was an inn in the
neighbourhood where some refreshment could be procured。 He said
there was； and that he would conduct us to it。 We directed our
course towards the east； rousing successively； and setting a…
scampering； three large herds of deer … the common ones were yellow
and of no particular size … but at the head of each herd we
observed a big old black fellow with immense antlers； one of these
was particularly large； indeed as huge as a bull。 We soon came to
the verge of a steep descent； down which we went； not without some
risk of falling。 At last we came to a gate； it was locked；
however； on John Jones shouting； an elderly man with his right hand
bandaged； came and opened it。 I asked him what was the matter with
his hand； and he told me that he had lately lost three fingers
whilst working at a saw…mill up at the castle。 On my inquiring
about the inn h
