wild wales-第66章
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the poor young man for health caused me to think how insensible I
had hitherto been to the possession of the greatest of all
terrestrial blessings。 I had always had the health of an elephant；
but I never remembered to have been sensible to the magnitude of
the blessing or in the slightest degree grateful to God who gave
it。 I shuddered to think how I should feel if suddenly deprived of
my health。 Far worse； no doubt； than that poor invalid。 He was
young； and in youth there is hope … but I was no longer young。 At
last； however； I thought that if God took away my health He might
so far alter my mind that I might be happy even without health； or
the prospect of it； and that reflection made me quite comfortable。
CHAPTER XLIV
National School … The Young Preacher … Pont Bettws … Spanish Words
… Two Tongues； Two Faces … The Elephant's Snout … Llyn Cwellyn …
The Snowdon Ranger … My House … Castell y Cidwm … Descent to Beth
Gelert。
IT might be about three o'clock in the afternoon when I left
Caernarvon for Beth Gelert； distant about thirteen miles。 I
journeyed through a beautiful country of hill and dale； woods and
meadows； the whole gilded by abundance of sunshine。 After walking
about an hour without intermission I reached a village； and asked a
man the name of it。
〃Llan … something；〃 he replied。
As he was standing before a long building； through the open door of
which a sound proceeded like that of preaching； I asked him what
place it was； and what was going on in it； and received for answer
that it was the National School； and that there was a clergyman
preaching in it。 I then asked if the clergyman was of the Church；
and on learning that he was； I forthwith entered the building；
where in one end of a long room I saw a young man in a white
surplice preaching from a desk to about thirty or forty people； who
were seated on benches before him。 I sat down and listened。 The
young man preached with great zeal and fluency。 The sermon was a
very seasonable one； being about the harvest； and in it things
temporal and spiritual were very happily blended。 The part of the
sermon which I heard … I regretted that I did not hear the whole …
lasted about five…and…twenty minutes： a hymn followed； and then
the congregation broke up。 I inquired the name of the young man
who preached； and was told that it was Edwards； and that he came
from Caernarvon。 The name of the incumbent of the parish was
Thomas。
Leaving the village of the harvest sermon I proceeded on my way
which lay to the south…east。 I was now drawing nigh to the
mountainous district of Eryri； a noble hill called Mount Eilio
appeared before me to the north； an immense mountain called Pen
Drws Coed lay over against it on the south； just like a couchant
elephant with its head lower than the top of its back。 After a
time I entered a most beautiful sunny valley； and presently came to
a bridge over a pleasant stream running in the direction of the
south。 As I stood upon that bridge I almost fancied myself in
Paradise； everything looked so beautiful or grand … green； sunny
meadows lay all around me； intersected by the brook； the waters of
which ran with tinkling laughter over a shingly bottom。 Noble
Eilio to the north； enormous Pen Drws Coed to the south； a tall
mountain far beyond them to the east。 〃I never was in such a
lovely spot！〃 I cried to myself in a perfect rapture。 〃Oh； how
glad I should be to learn the name of this bridge； standing on
which I have had 'Heaven opened to me；' as my old friends the
Spaniards used to say。〃 Scarcely had I said these words when I
observed a man and a woman coming towards the bridge in the
direction in which I was bound。 I hastened to meet them in the
hope of obtaining information。 They were both rather young； and
were probably a couple of sweethearts taking a walk or returning
from meeting。 The woman was a few steps in advance of the man；
seeing that I was about to address her； she averted her head and
quickened her steps； and before I had completed the question； which
I put to her in Welsh； she had bolted past me screaming 〃Ah Dim
Seasneg；〃 and was several yards distant。
I then addressed myself to the man who had stopped； asking him the
name of the bridge。
〃Pont Bettws；〃 he replied。
〃And what may be the name of the river？〃 said I。
〃Afon … something；〃 said he。
And on my thanking him he went forward to the woman who was waiting
for him by the bridge。
〃Is that man Welsh or English？〃 I heard her say when he had
rejoined her。
〃I don't know；〃 said the man … 〃he was civil enough； why were you
such a fool？〃
〃Oh； I thought he would speak to me in English；〃 said the woman；
〃and the thought of that horrid English puts me into such a
flutter； you know I can't speak a word of it。〃
They proceeded on their way and I proceeded on mine； and presently
coming to a little inn on the left side of the way； at the entrance
of a village； I went in。
A respectable…looking man and woman were seated at tea at a table
in a nice clean kitchen。 I sat down on a chair near the table； and
called for ale … the ale was brought me in a jug … I drank some；
put the jug on the table； and began to discourse with the people in
Welsh。 A handsome dog was seated on the ground； suddenly it laid
one of its paws on its master's knee。
〃Down； Perro；〃 said he。
〃Perro！〃 said I； 〃why do you call the dog Perro？〃
〃We call him Perro；〃 said the man； 〃because his name is Perro。〃
〃But how came you to give him that name？〃 said I。
〃We did not give it to him；〃 said the man … 〃he bore that name when
he came into our hands； a farmer gave him to us when he was very
young； and told us his name was Perro。〃
〃And how came the farmer to call him Perro？〃 said I。
〃I don't know；〃 said the man … 〃why do you ask？〃
〃Perro；〃 said I； 〃is a Spanish word； and signifies a dog in
general。 I am rather surprised that a dog in the mountains of
Wales should be called by the Spanish word for dog。〃 I fell into a
fit of musing。 〃How Spanish words are diffused！ Wherever you go
you will find some Spanish word or other in use。 I have heard
Spanish words used by Russian mujiks and Turkish fig…gatherers … I
have this day heard a Spanish word in the mountains of Wales； and I
have no doubt that were I to go to Iceland I should find Spanish
words used there。 How can I doubt it； when I reflect that more
than six hundred years ago； one of the words to denote a bad woman
was Spanish。 In the oldest of Icelandic domestic Sagas；
Skarphedin； the son of Nial the seer； called Hallgerdr； widow of
Gunnar； a puta … and that word so maddened Hallgerdr that she never
rested till she had brought about his destruction。 Now； why this
preference everywhere for Spanish words over those of every other
language？ I never heard French words or German words used by
Russian mujiks and Turkish fig…gatherers。 I question whether I
should find any in Iceland forming part of the vernacular。 I
certainly never found a French or even a German word in an old
Icelandic Saga。 Why this partiality everywhere for Spanish words？
the question is puzzling； at any rate it puts me out … 〃
〃Yes； it puts me out！〃 I exclaimed aloud； striking my fist on the
table with a vehemence which caused the good folks to start half up
from their seats。 Before they could say anything； however； a
vehicle drove up to the door； and a man getting out came into the
room。 He had a glazed hat on his head； and was dressed something
like the guard of a mail。 He touched his hat to me； and called for
a glass of whiskey。 I gave him the sele of the evening and entered
into conversation with him in English。 In the course of discourse
I learned that he was the postman； and was going his rounds in his
cart … he was more than respectful to me； he was fawning and
sycophantic。 The whiskey was brought； and he stood with the glass
in his hand。 Suddenly he began speaking Welsh to the people；
before； however； he had uttered two sentences the woman lifted her
hand with an alarmed air； crying 〃Hush！ he u
