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the children of the Egyptian race; their locks being not dark; but 
either of a flaxen or red hue; and their features not delicate and 
regular; but coarse and uncouth; and their complexions not olive; 
but rather inclining to be fair。  I did not go up to them; but 
continued my course till I arrived near a large factory。  I then 
turned and retraced my steps into the town。  It was Saturday night; 
and the streets were crowded with people; many of whom must have 
been Welsh; as I heard the Cambrian language spoken on every side。



CHAPTER IV



Sunday Morning … Tares and Wheat … Teetotalism … Hearsay … Irish 
Family … What Profession? … Sabbath Evening … Priest or Minister … 
Give us God。


ON the Sunday morning; as we sat at breakfast; we heard the noise 
of singing in the street; running to the window; we saw a number of 
people; bareheaded; from whose mouths the singing or psalmody 
proceeded。  These; on inquiry; we were informed; were Methodists; 
going about to raise recruits for a grand camp…meeting; which was 
to be held a little way out of the town。  We finished our 
breakfast; and at eleven attended divine service at the Cathedral。  
The interior of this holy edifice was smooth and neat; strangely 
contrasting with its exterior; which was rough and weather…beaten。  
We had decent places found us by a civil verger; who probably took 
us for what we were … decent country people。  We heard much fine 
chanting by the choir; and an admirable sermon; preached by a 
venerable prebend; on 〃Tares and Wheat。〃  The congregation was 
numerous and attentive。  After service we returned to our inn; and 
at two o'clock dined。  During dinner our conversation ran almost 
entirely on the sermon; which we all agreed was one of the best 
sermons we had ever heard; and most singularly adapted to country 
people like ourselves; being on 〃Wheat and Tares。〃  When dinner was 
over my wife and daughter repaired to the neighbouring church; and 
I went in quest of the camp…meeting; having a mighty desire to know 
what kind of a thing Methodism at Chester was。

I found about two thousand people gathered together in a field near 
the railroad station; a waggon stood under some green elms at one 
end of the field; in which were ten or a dozen men with the look of 
Methodist preachers; one of these was holding forth to the 
multitude when I arrived; but he presently sat down; I having; as I 
suppose; only come in time to hear the fag…end of his sermon。  
Another succeeded him; who; after speaking for about half an hour; 
was succeeded by another。  All the discourses were vulgar and 
fanatical; and in some instances unintelligible at least to my 
ears。  There was plenty of vociferation; but not one single burst 
of eloquence。  Some of the assembly appeared to take considerable 
interest in what was said; and every now and then showed they did 
by devout hums and groans; but the generality evidently took little 
or none; staring about listlessly; or talking to one another。  
Sometimes; when anything particularly low escaped from the mouth of 
the speaker; I heard exclamations of 〃how low! well; I think I 
could preach better than that;〃 and the like。  At length a man of 
about fifty; pock…broken and somewhat bald; began to speak:  unlike 
the others who screamed; shouted; and seemed in earnest; he spoke 
in a dry; waggish style; which had all the coarseness and nothing 
of the cleverness of that of old Rowland Hill; whom I once heard。  
After a great many jokes; some of them very poor; and others 
exceedingly thread…bare; on the folly of those who sell themselves 
to the Devil for a little temporary enjoyment; he introduced the 
subject of drunkenness; or rather drinking fermented liquors; which 
he seemed to consider the same thing; and many a sorry joke on the 
folly of drinking them did he crack; which some half…dozen amidst 
the concourse applauded。  At length he said:…

〃After all; brethren; such drinking is no joking matter; for it is 
the root of all evil。  Now; brethren; if you would all get to 
heaven; and cheat the enemy of your souls; never go into a public…
house to drink; and never fetch any drink from a public…house。  Let 
nothing pass your lips; in the shape of drink; stronger than water 
or tea。  Brethren; if you would cheat the Devil; take the pledge 
and become teetotalers。  I am a teetotaller myself; thank God … 
though once I was a regular lushington。〃

Here ensued a burst of laughter in which I joined; though not at 
the wretched joke; but at the absurdity of the argument; for; 
according to that argument; I thought my old friends the Spaniards 
and Portuguese must be the most moral people in the world; being 
almost all water…drinkers。  As the speaker was proceeding with his 
nonsense; I heard some one say behind me … 〃a pretty fellow that; 
to speak against drinking and public…houses:  he pretends to be 
reformed; but he is still as fond of the lush as ever。  It was only 
the other day I saw him reeling out of a gin…shop。〃

Now that speech I did not like; for I saw at once that it could not 
be true; so I turned quickly round and said … 〃Old chap; I can 
scarcely credit that!〃

The man; whom I addressed; a rough…and…ready…looking fellow of the 
lower class; seemed half disposed to return me a savage answer; but 
an Englishman of the lower class; though you call his word in 
question; is never savage with you; provided you call him old chap; 
and he considers you by your dress to be his superior in station。  
Now I; who had called the word of this man in question; had called 
him old chap; and was considerably better dressed than himself; so; 
after a little hesitation; he became quite gentle; and something 
more; for he said in a half…apologetic tone … 〃Well; sir; I did not 
exactly see him myself; but a particular friend of mine heer'd a 
man say; that he heer'd another man say; that he was told that a 
man heer'd that that fellow … 〃

〃Come; come!〃 said I; 〃a man must not be convicted on evidence like 
that; no man has more contempt for the doctrine which that man 
endeavours to inculcate than myself; for I consider it to have been 
got up partly for fanatical; partly for political purposes; but I 
will never believe that he was lately seen coming out of a gin…
shop; he is too wise; or rather too cunning; for that。〃

I stayed listening to these people till evening was at hand。  I 
then left them; and without returning to the inn strolled over the 
bridge to the green; where the tents stood。  I went up to them:  
two women sat at the entrance of one; a man stood by them; and the 
children; whom I had before seen; were gambolling near at hand。  
One of the women was about forty; the other some twenty years 
younger; both were ugly。  The younger was a rude; stupid…looking 
creature; with red cheeks and redder hair; but there was a dash of 
intelligence and likewise of wildness in the countenance of the 
elder female; whose complexion and hair were rather dark。  The man 
was about the same age as the elder woman; he had rather a sharp 
look; and was dressed in hat; white frock…coat; corduroy breeches; 
long stockings and shoes。  I gave them the seal of the evening。

〃Good evening to your haner;〃 said the man … 〃Good evening to you; 
sir;〃 said the woman; whilst the younger mumbled something; 
probably to the same effect; but which I did not catch。

〃Fine weather;〃 said I。

〃Very; sir;〃 said the elder female。  〃Won't you please to sit 
down?〃 and reaching back into the tent; she pulled out a stool 
which she placed near me。

I sat down on the stool。  〃You are not from these parts?〃 said I; 
addressing myself to the man。

〃We are not; your haner;〃 said the man; 〃we are from Ireland。〃

〃And this lady;〃 said I; motioning with my head to the elder 
female; 〃is; I suppose; your wife。〃

〃She is; your haner; and the children which your haner sees are my 
children。〃

〃And who is this young lady?〃 said I; motioning to the uncouth…
looking girl。

〃The young lady; as your haner is pleased to call her; is a 
daughter of a sister of mine who is now dead; along with her 
husband。  We have her with us; 

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