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might rifle some of the common shops; where their booty would be 
slight; but those which contained the more costly articles would be 
beyond their reach; for at the first alarm the doors of the 
passages; up which the stairs led; would be closed; and all access 
to the upper streets cut off; from the open arches of which 
missiles of all kinds; kept ready for such occasions; could be 
discharged upon the intruders; who would be soon glad to beat a 
retreat。  These rows and the walls are certainly the most 
remarkable memorials of old times which Chester has to boast of。

Upon the walls it is possible to make the whole compass of the 
city; there being a good but narrow walk upon them。  The northern 
wall abuts upon a frightful ravine; at the bottom of which is a 
canal。  From the western one there is a noble view of the Welsh 
hills。

As I stood gazing upon the hills from the wall a ragged man came up 
and asked for charity。

〃Can you tell me the name of that tall hill?〃 said I; pointing in 
the direction of the south…west。  〃That hill; sir;〃 said the 
beggar; 〃is called Moel Vamagh; I ought to know something about it 
as I was born at its foot。〃  〃Moel;〃 said I; 〃a bald hill; Vamagh; 
maternal or motherly。  Moel Vamagh; the Mother Moel。〃  〃Just so; 
sir;〃 said the beggar; 〃I see you are a Welshman; like myself; 
though I suppose you come from the South … Moel Vamagh is the 
Mother Moel; and is called so because it is the highest of all the 
Moels。〃  〃Did you ever hear of a place called Mold?〃 said I。  〃Oh; 
yes; your honour;〃 said the beggar; 〃many a time; and many's the 
time I have been there。〃  〃In which direction does it lie?〃 said I。  
〃Towards Moel Vamagh; your honour;〃 said the beggar; 〃which is a 
few miles beyond it; you can't see it from here; but look towards 
Moel Vamagh and you will see over it。〃  〃Thank you;〃 said I; and 
gave something to the beggar; who departed; after first taking off 
his hat。  Long and fixedly did I gaze in the direction of Mold。  
The reason which induced me to do so was the knowledge of an 
appalling tragedy transacted there in the old time; in which there 
is every reason to suppose a certain Welsh bard; called Lewis Glyn 
Cothi; had a share。

This man; who was a native of South Wales; flourished during the 
wars of the Roses。  Besides being a poetical he was something of a 
military genius; and had a command of foot in the army of the 
Lancastrian Jasper Earl of Pembroke; the son of Owen Tudor; and 
half…brother of Henry the Sixth。  After the battle of Mortimer's 
Cross; in which the Earl's forces were defeated; the warrior bard 
found his way to Chester; where he married the widow of a citizen 
and opened a shop; without asking the permission of the mayor; who 
with the officers of justice came and seized all his goods; which; 
according to his own account; filled nine sacks; and then drove him 
out of the town。  The bard in a great fury indited an awdl; in 
which he invites Reinallt ap Grufydd ap Bleddyn; a kind of 
predatory chieftain; who resided a little way off in Flintshire; to 
come and set the town on fire; and slaughter the inhabitants; in 
revenge for the wrongs he had suffered; and then proceeds to vent 
all kinds of imprecations against the mayor and people of Chester; 
wishing; amongst other things; that they might soon hear that the 
Dee had become too shallow to bear their ships … that a certain 
cutaneous disorder might attack the wrists of great and small; old 
and young; laity and clergy … that grass might grow in their 
streets … that Ilar and Cyveilach; Welsh saints; might slay them … 
that dogs might snarl at them … and that the king of heaven; with 
the saints Brynach and Non; might afflict them with blindness … 
which piece; however ineffectual in inducing God and the saints to 
visit the Chester people with the curses with which the furious 
bard wished them to be afflicted; seems to have produced somewhat 
of its intended effect on the chieftain; who shortly afterwards; on 
learning that the mayor and many of the Chester people were present 
at the fair of Mold; near which place he resided; set upon them at 
the head of his forces; and after a desperate combat; in which many 
lives were lost; took the mayor prisoner; and drove those of his 
people who survived into a tower; which he set on fire and burnt; 
with all the unhappy wretches which it contained; completing the 
horrors of the day by hanging the unfortunate mayor。

Conversant as I was with all this strange history; is it wonderful 
that I looked with great interest from the wall of Chester in the 
direction of Mold?

Once did I make the compass of the city upon the walls; and was 
beginning to do the same a second time; when I stumbled against a 
black; who; with his arms leaning upon the wall; was spitting over 
it; in the direction of the river。  I apologised; and contrived to 
enter into conversation with him。  He was tolerably well dressed; 
had a hairy cap on his head; was about forty years of age; and 
brutishly ugly; his features scarcely resembling those of a human 
being。  He told me he was a native of Antigua; a blacksmith by 
trade; and had been a slave。  I asked him if he could speak any 
language besides English; and received for answer that besides 
English; he could speak Spanish and French。  Forthwith I spoke to 
him in Spanish; but he did not understand me。  I then asked him to 
speak to me in Spanish; but he could not。  〃Surely you can tell me 
the word for water in Spanish;〃 said I; he; however; was not able。  
〃How is it;〃 said I; 〃that; pretending to be acquainted with 
Spanish; you do not even know the word for water?〃  He said he 
could not tell; but supposed that he had forgotten the Spanish 
language; adding however; that he could speak French perfectly。  I 
spoke to him in French … he did not understand me:  I told him to 
speak to me in French; but he did not。  I then asked him the word 
for bread in French; but he could not tell me。  I made no 
observations on his ignorance; but inquired how he liked being a 
slave?  He said not at all; that it was very bad to be a slave; as 
a slave was forced to work。  I asked him if he did not work now 
that he was free?  He said very seldom; that he did not like work; 
and that it did not agree with him。  I asked how he came into 
England; and he said that wishing to see England; he had come over 
with a gentleman as his servant; but that as soon as he got there; 
he had left his master; as he did not like work。  I asked him how 
he contrived to live in England without working?  He said that any 
black might live in England without working; that all he had to do 
was to attend religious meetings; and speak against slavery and the 
Americans。  I asked him if he had done so。  He said he had; and 
that the religious people were very kind to him; and gave him 
money; and that a religious lady was going to marry him。  I asked 
him if he knew anything about the Americans?  He said he did; and 
that they were very bad people; who kept slaves and flogged them。  
〃And quite right too;〃 said I; 〃if they are lazy rascals like 
yourself; who want to eat without working。  What a pretty set of 
knaves or fools must they be; who encourage a fellow like you to 
speak against negro slavery; of the necessity for which you 
yourself are a living instance; and against a people of whom you 
know as much as of French or Spanish。〃  Then leaving the black; who 
made no other answer to what I said; than by spitting with 
considerable force in the direction of the river; I continued 
making my second compass of the city upon the wall。

Having walked round the city for the second time; I returned to the 
inn。  In the evening I went out again; passed over the bridge; and 
then turned to the right in the direction of the hills。  Near the 
river; on my right; on a kind of green; I observed two or three 
tents resembling those of gypsies。  Some ragged children were 
playing near them; who; however; had nothing of the appearance of 
the children of the Egyptian race; their locks being not dark; but 
either of a flaxen or red hue; and their featu

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