wild wales-第4章
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weary； we returned to our inn； and after taking an excellent supper
retired to rest。
At ten o'clock next morning we left the capital of the meads。 With
dragon speed； and dragon noise； fire； smoke； and fury； the train
dashed along its road through beautiful meadows； garnished here and
there with pollard sallows； over pretty streams； whose waters stole
along imperceptibly； by venerable old churches； which I vowed I
would take the first opportunity of visiting： stopping now and
then to recruit its energies at places； whose old Anglo…Saxon names
stared me in the eyes from station boards； as specimens of which；
let me only dot down Willy Thorpe； Ringsted； and Yrthling Boro。
Quite forgetting everything Welsh； I was enthusiastically Saxon the
whole way from Medeshamsted to Blissworth； so thoroughly Saxon was
the country； with its rich meads； its old churches and its names。
After leaving Blissworth； a thoroughly Saxon place by…the…bye； as
its name shows； signifying the stronghold or possession of Bligh or
Blee； I became less Saxon； the country was rather less Saxon； and I
caught occasionally the word 〃by〃 on a board； the Danish for a
town； which 〃by〃 waked in me a considerable portion of Danish
enthusiasm； of which I have plenty； and with reason； having
translated the glorious Kaempe Viser over the desk of my ancient
master； the gentleman solicitor of East Anglia。 At length we drew
near the great workshop of England； called by some； Brummagem or
Bromwicham； by others Birmingham； and I fell into a philological
reverie； wondering which was the right name。 Before； however； we
came to the station； I decided that both names were right enough；
but that Bromwicham was the original name； signifying the home on
the broomie moor； which name it lost in polite parlance for
Birmingham； or the home of the son of Biarmer； when a certain man
of Danish blood； called Biarming； or the son of Biarmer； got
possession of it； whether by force； fraud； or marriage … the
latter； by…the…bye； is by far the best way of getting possession of
an estate … this deponent neither knoweth nor careth。 At
Birmingham station I became a modern Englishman； enthusiastically
proud of modern England's science and energy； that station alone is
enough to make one proud of being a modern Englishman。 Oh； what an
idea does that station； with its thousand trains dashing off in all
directions； or arriving from all quarters； give of modern English
science and energy。 My modern English pride accompanied me all the
way to Tipton； for all along the route there were wonderful
evidences of English skill and enterprise； in chimneys high as
cathedral spires； vomiting forth smoke； furnaces emitting flame and
lava； and in the sound of gigantic hammers； wielded by steam； the
Englishman's slave。 After passing Tipton； at which place one
leaves the great working district behind； I became for a
considerable time a yawning； listless Englishman； without pride；
enthusiasm； or feeling of any kind； from which state I was suddenly
roused by the sight of ruined edifices on the tops of hills。 They
were remains of castles built by Norman Barons。 Here； perhaps； the
reader will expect from me a burst of Norman enthusiasm： if so he
will be mistaken； I have no Norman enthusiasm； and hate and
abominate the name of Norman； for I have always associated that
name with the deflowering of helpless Englishwomen； the plundering
of English homesteads； and the tearing out of poor Englishmen's
eyes。 The sight of those edifices； now in ruins； but which were
once the strongholds of plunder； violence； and lust； made me almost
ashamed of being an Englishman； for they brought to my mind the
indignities to which poor English blood has been subjected。 I sat
silent and melancholy； till looking from the window I caught sight
of a long line of hills； which I guessed to be the Welsh hills； as
indeed they proved； which sight causing me to remember that I was
bound for Wales； the land of the bard； made me cast all gloomy
thoughts aside and glow with all the Welsh enthusiasm with which I
glowed when I first started in the direction of Wales。
On arriving at Chester； at which place we intended to spend two or
three days； we put up at an old…fashioned inn in Northgate Street；
to which we had been recommended； my wife and daughter ordered tea
and its accompaniments； and I ordered ale； and that which always
should accompany it； cheese。 〃The ale I shall find bad；〃 said I；
Chester ale had a villainous character in the time of old Sion
Tudor； who made a first…rate englyn upon it； and it has scarcely
improved since； 〃but I shall have a treat in the cheese； Cheshire
cheese has always been reckoned excellent； and now that I am in the
capital of the cheese country； of course I shall have some of the
very prime。〃 Well； the tea； loaf and butter made their appearance；
and with them my cheese and ale。 To my horror the cheese had much
the appearance of soap of the commonest kind； which indeed I found
it much resembled in taste； on putting a small portion into my
mouth。 〃Ah；〃 said I； after I had opened the window and ejected the
half…masticated morsel into the street； 〃those who wish to regale
on good Cheshire cheese must not come to Chester； no more than
those who wish to drink first…rate coffee must go to Mocha。 I'll
now see whether the ale is drinkable；〃 so I took a little of the
ale into my mouth； and instantly going to the window； spirted it
out after the cheese。 〃Of a surety；〃 said I； 〃Chester ale must be
of much the same quality as it was in the time of Sion Tudor； who
spoke of it to the following effect：…
〃Chester ale； Chester ale！ I could ne'er get it down；
'Tis made of ground…ivy； of dirt； and of bran；
'Tis as thick as a river below a huge town！
'Tis not lap for a dog； far less drink for a man。'
Well！ if I have been deceived in the cheese； I have at any rate not
been deceived in the ale； which I expected to find execrable。
Patience！ I shall not fall into a passion； more especially as there
are things I can fall back upon。 Wife！ I will trouble you for a
cup of tea。 Henrietta！ have the kindness to cut me a slice of
bread and butter。〃
Upon the whole we found ourselves very comfortable in the old…
fashioned inn； which was kept by a nice old…fashioned gentlewoman；
with the assistance of three servants； namely； a 〃boots〃 and two
strapping chambermaids； one of which was a Welsh girl； with whom I
soon scraped acquaintance； not； I assure the reader； for the sake
of the pretty Welsh eyes which she carried in her head； but for the
sake of the pretty Welsh tongue which she carried in her mouth；
from which I confess occasionally proceeded sounds which； however
pretty； I was quite unable to understand。
CHAPTER III
Chester … The Rows … Lewis Glyn Cothi … Tragedy of Mold … Native of
Antigua … Slavery and the Americans … The Tents … Saturday Night。
ON the morning after our arrival we went out together； and walked
up and down several streets； my wife and daughter； however； soon
leaving me to go into a shop； I strolled about by myself。 Chester
is an ancient town with walls and gates； a prison called a castle；
built on the site of an ancient keep； an unpretending…looking red
sandstone cathedral； two or three handsome churches； several good
streets； and certain curious places called rows。 The Chester row
is a broad arched stone gallery running parallel with the street
within the facades of the houses； it is partly open on the side of
the street； and just one story above it。 Within the rows； of which
there are three or four； are shops； every shop being on that side
which is farthest from the street。 All the best shops in Chester
are to be found in the rows。 These rows； to which you ascend by
stairs up narrow passages； were originally built for the security
of the wares of the principal merchants against the Welsh。 Should
the mountaineers break into the town； as they frequently did； they
might rifle some of the common shops； where their booty would be
slight； but those which cont
