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he had nearly silenced me; he observed that he did not deny that I 
had a good deal of book learning; but that in matters of baptism I 
was as ignorant as the rest of the people of the church were; and 
had always been。  He then said that many church people had entered 
into argument with him on the subject of baptism; but that he had 
got the better of them all; that Mr P。; the minister of the parish 
of L。; in which we then were; had frequently entered into argument 
with him; but quite unsuccessfully; and had at last given up the 
matter; as a bad job。  He added that a little time before; as Mr P。 
was walking close to the canal with his wife and daughter and a 
spaniel dog; Mr P。 suddenly took up the dog and flung it in; giving 
it a good ducking; whereupon he; Morgan; cried out:  〃Dyna y gwir 
vedydd!  That is the right baptism; sir!  I thought I should bring 
you to it at last!〃 at which words Mr P。 laughed heartily; but made 
no particular reply。

After a little time he began to talk about the great men who had 
risen up amongst the Baptists; and mentioned two or three 
distinguished individuals。

I said that he had not mentioned the greatest man who had been born 
amongst the Baptists。

〃What was his name?〃 said he。

〃His name was Joost Van Vondel;〃 I replied。

〃I never heard of him before;〃 said Morgan。

〃Very probably;〃 said I:  〃he was born; bred; and died in Holland。〃

〃Has he been dead long?〃 said Morgan。

〃About two hundred years;〃 said I。

〃That's a long time;〃 said Morgan; 〃and maybe is the reason that I 
never heard of him。  So he was a great man?〃

〃He was indeed;〃 said I。  〃He was not only the greatest man that 
ever sprang up amongst the Baptists; but the greatest; and by far 
the greatest; that Holland ever produced; though Holland has 
produced a great many illustrious men。〃

〃Oh I daresay he was a great man if he was a Baptist;〃 said Morgan。  
〃Well; it's strange I never read of him。  I thought I had read the 
lives of all the eminent people who lived and died in our 
communion。〃

〃He did not die in the Baptist communion;〃 said I。

〃Oh; he didn't die in it;〃 said Morgan; 〃What; did he go over to 
the Church of England? a pretty fellow!〃

〃He did not go over to the Church of England;〃 said I; 〃for the 
Church of England does not exist in Holland; he went over to the 
Church of Rome。〃

〃Well; that's not quite so bad;〃 said Morgan; 〃however; it's bad 
enough。  I daresay he was a pretty blackguard。〃

〃No;〃 said I:  〃he was a pure virtuous character; and perhaps the 
only pure and virtuous character that ever went over to Rome。  The 
only wonder is that so good a man could ever have gone over to so 
detestable a church; but he appears to have been deluded。〃

〃Deluded indeed!〃 said Morgan。  〃However; I suppose he went over 
for advancement's sake。〃

〃No;〃 said I; 〃he lost every prospect of advancement by going over 
to Rome:  nine…tenths of his countrymen were of the reformed 
religion; and he endured much poverty and contempt by the step he 
took。〃

〃How did he support himself?〃 said Morgan。

〃He obtained a livelihood;〃 said I; 〃by writing poems and plays; 
some of which are wonderfully fine。〃

〃What;〃 said Morgan; 〃a writer of Interludes?  One of Twm o'r 
Nant's gang!  I thought he would turn out a pretty fellow。〃  I told 
him that the person in question certainly did write Interludes; for 
example Noah; and Joseph at Goshen; but that he was a highly 
respectable; nay venerable character。

〃If he was a writer of Interludes;〃 said Morgan; 〃he was a 
blackguard; there never yet was a writer of Interludes; or a person 
who went about playing them; that was not a scamp。  He might be a 
clever man; I don't say he was not。  Who was a cleverer man than 
Twm o'r Nant with his Pleasure and Care; and Riches and Poverty; 
but where was there a greater blackguard?  Why; not in all Wales。  
And if you knew this other fellow … what's his name … Fondle's 
history; you would find that he was not a bit more respectable than 
Twm o'r Nant; and not half so clever。  As for his leaving the 
Baptists I don't believe a word of it; he was turned out of the 
connection; and then went about the country saying he left it。  No 
Baptist connection would ever have a writer of Interludes in it; 
not Twm o'r Nant himself; unless he left his ales and Interludes 
and wanton hussies; for the three things are sure to go together。  
You say he went over to the Church of Rome; of course he did; if 
the Church of England were not at hand to receive him; where should 
he go but to Rome?  No respectable church like the Methodist or the 
Independent would have received him。  There are only two churches 
in the world that will take in anybody without asking questions; 
and will never turn them out however bad they may behave; the one 
is the Church of Rome; and the other the Church of Canterbury; and 
if you look into the matter you will find that every rogue; rascal 
and hanged person since the world began; has belonged to one or 
other of those communions。〃

In the evening I took a walk with my wife and daughter past the 
Plas Newydd。  Coming to the little mill called the Melyn Bac; at 
the bottom of the gorge; we went into the yard to observe the 
water…wheel。  We found that it was turned by a very little water; 
which was conveyed to it by artificial means。  Seeing the miller's 
man; a short dusty figure; standing in the yard; I entered into 
conversation with him; and found to my great surprise that he had a 
considerable acquaintance with the ancient language。  On my 
repeating to him verses from Taliesin he understood them; and to 
show me that he did; translated some of the lines into English。  
Two or three respectable…looking lads; probably the miller's sons; 
came out; and listened to us。  One of them said we were both good 
Welshmen。  After a little time the man asked me if I had heard of 
Huw Morris; I told him that I was well acquainted with his 
writings; and enquired whether the place in which he had lived was 
not somewhere in the neighbourhood。  He said it was; and that it 
was over the mountains not far from Llan Sanfraid。  I asked whether 
it was not called Pont y Meibion。  He answered in the affirmative; 
and added that he had himself been there; and had sat in Huw 
Morris's stone chair which was still to be seen by the road's side。  
I told him that I hoped to visit the place in a few days。  He 
replied that I should be quite right in doing so; and that no one 
should come to these parts without visiting Pont y Meibion; for 
that Huw Morris was one of the columns of the Cumry。

〃What a difference;〃 said I to my wife; after we had departed; 
〃between a Welshman and an Englishman of the lower class。  What 
would a Suffolk miller's swain have said if I had repeated to him 
verses out of Beowulf or even Chaucer; and had asked him about the 
residence of Skelton。



CHAPTER XX



Huw Morris … Immortal Elegy … The Valley of Ceiriog … Tangled 
Wilderness … Perplexity … Chair of Huw Morris … The Walking Stick … 
Huw's Descendant … Pont y Meibion。


Two days after the last adventure I set off; over the Berwyn; to 
visit the birth…place of Huw Morris under the guidance of John 
Jones; who was well acquainted with the spot。

Huw Morus or Morris; was born in the year 1622 on the banks of the 
Ceiriog。  His life was a long one; for he died at the age of 
eighty…four; after living in six reigns。  He was the second son of 
a farmer; and was apprenticed to a tanner; with whom; however; he 
did not stay till the expiration of the term of his apprenticeship; 
for not liking the tanning art; he speedily returned to the house 
of his father; whom he assisted in husbandry till death called the 
old man away。  He then assisted his elder brother; and on his elder 
brother's death; lived with his son。  He did not distinguish 
himself as a husbandman; and appears never to have been fond of 
manual labour。  At an early period; however; he applied himself 
most assiduously to poetry; and before he had attained the age of 
thirty was celebrated; throughout Wales; as the best poet of his 
time。  When

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