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picked up the tongue。〃

〃Do you know what became of her?〃

〃I do; sir; her own people found her out; and wished to take her 
away with them; but she refused to let them; for by that time she 
was perfectly reclaimed; had been to chapel; renounced her heathen 
crefydd; and formed an acquaintance with a young Methodist who had 
a great gift of prayer; whom she afterwards married … she and her 
husband live at present not far from Mineira。〃

〃I almost wonder that her own people did not kill her。〃

〃They threatened to do so; sir; and would doubtless have put their 
threat into execution; had they not been prevented by the Man on 
High。〃

And here my guide pointed with his finger reverently upward。

〃Is it a long time since you have seen any of these Gwyddeliaid?〃

〃About two months; sir; and then a terrible fright they caused me。〃

〃How was that?〃

〃I will tell you; sir; I had been across the Berwyn to carry home a 
piece of weaving work to a person who employs me。  It was night as 
I returned; and when I was about halfway down the hill; at a place 
which is called Allt Paddy; because the Gwyddelod are in the habit 
of taking up their quarters there; I came upon a gang of them; who 
had come there and camped and lighted their fire; whilst I was on 
the other side of the hill。  There were nearly twenty of them; men 
and women; and amongst the rest was a man standing naked in a tub 
of water with two women stroking him down with clouts。  He was a 
large fierce…looking fellow and his body; on which the flame of the 
fire glittered; was nearly covered with red hair。  I never saw such 
a sight。  As I passed they glared at me and talked violently in 
their Paddy Gwyddel; but did not offer to molest me。  I hastened 
down the hill; and right glad I was when I found myself safe and 
sound at my house in Llangollen; with my money in my pocket; for I 
had several shillings there; which the man across the hill had paid 
me for the work which I had done。〃



CHAPTER XV



The Turf Tavern … Don't Understand … The Best Welsh … The Maids of 
Merion … Old and New … Ruthyn … The Ash Yggdrasill。


WE now emerged from the rough and narrow way which we had followed 
for some miles; upon one much wider; and more commodious; which my 
guide told me was the coach road from Wrexham to Ruthyn; and going 
on a little farther we came to an avenue of trees which shaded the 
road。  It was chiefly composed of ash; sycamore and birch; and 
looked delightfully cool and shady。  I asked my guide if it 
belonged to any gentleman's house。  He told me that it did not; but 
to a public…house; called Tafarn Tywarch; which stood near the end; 
a little way off the road。   〃Why is it called Tafarn Tywarch?〃 
said I; struck by the name which signifies 〃the tavern of turf。〃

〃It was called so; sir;〃 said John; 〃because it was originally 
merely a turf hovel; though at present it consists of good brick 
and mortar。〃

〃Can we breakfast there;〃 said I; 〃for I feel both hungry and 
thirsty?〃

〃Oh yes; sir;〃 said John; 〃I have heard there is good cheese and 
cwrw there。〃

We turned off to the 〃tafarn;〃 which was a decent public…house of 
rather an antiquated appearance。  We entered a sanded kitchen; and 
sat down by a large oaken table。  〃Please to bring us some bread; 
cheese and ale;〃 said I in Welsh to an elderly woman; who was 
moving about。

〃Sar?〃 said she。

〃Bring us some bread; cheese and ale;〃 I repeated in Welsh。

〃I do not understand you; sar;〃 said she in English。

〃Are you Welsh?〃 said I in English。

〃Yes; I am Welsh!〃

〃And can you speak Welsh?〃

〃Oh yes; and the best。〃

〃Then why did you not bring what I asked for?〃

〃Because I did not understand you。〃

〃Tell her;〃 said I to John Jones; 〃to bring us some bread; cheese 
and ale。〃

〃Come; aunt;〃 said John; 〃bring us bread and cheese and a quart of 
the best ale。〃

The woman looked as if she was going to reply in the tongue in 
which he addressed her; then faltered; and at last said in English 
that she did not understand。

〃Now;〃 said I; 〃you are fairly caught:  this man is a Welshman; and 
moreover understands no language but Welsh。〃

〃Then how can he understand you?〃 said she。

〃Because I speak Welsh;〃 said I。

〃Then you are a Welshman?〃 said she。

〃No I am not;〃 said I; 〃I am English。〃

〃So I thought;〃 said she; 〃and on that account I could not 
understand you。〃

〃You mean that you would not;〃 said I。  〃Now do you choose to bring 
what you are bidden?〃

〃Come; aunt;〃 said John; 〃don't be silly and cenfigenus; but bring 
the breakfast。〃

The woman stood still for a moment or two; and then biting her lips 
went away。

〃What made the woman behave in this manner?〃 said I to my 
companion。

〃Oh; she was cenfigenus; sir;〃 he replied; 〃she did not like that 
an English gentleman should understand Welsh; she was envious; you 
will find a dozen or two like her in Wales; but let us hope not 
more。〃

Presently the woman returned with the bread; cheese and ale; which 
she placed on the table。

〃Oh;〃 said I; 〃you have brought what was bidden; though it was 
never mentioned to you in English; which shows that your pretending 
not to understand was all a sham。  What made you behave so?〃

〃Why I thought;〃 said the woman; 〃that no Englishman could speak 
Welsh; that his tongue was too short。〃

〃Your having thought so;〃 said I; 〃should not have made you tell a 
falsehood; saying that you did not understand; when you knew that 
you understood very well。  See what a disgraceful figure you cut。〃

〃I cut no disgraced figure;〃 said the woman:  〃after all; what 
right have the English to come here speaking Welsh; which belongs 
to the Welsh alone; who in fact are the only people that understand 
it。〃

〃Are you sure that you understand Welsh?〃 said I。

〃I should think so;〃 said the woman; 〃for I come from the Vale of 
Clwyd; where they speak the best Welsh in the world; the Welsh of 
the Bible。〃

〃What do they call a salmon in the Vale of Clwyd?〃 said I。

〃What do they call a salmon?〃 said the woman。  〃Yes;〃 said I; 〃when 
they speak Welsh。〃

〃They call it … they call it … why a salmon。〃

〃Pretty Welsh!〃 said I。  〃I thought you did not understand Welsh。〃

〃Well; what do you call it?〃 said the woman。

〃Eawg;〃 said I; 〃that is the word for a salmon in general … but 
there are words also to show the sex … when you speak of a male 
salmon you should say cemyw; when of a female hwyfell。〃

〃I never heard the words before;〃 said the woman; 〃nor do I believe 
them to be Welsh。〃

〃You say so;〃 said I; 〃because you do not understand Welsh。〃

〃I not understand Welsh!〃 said she。  〃I'll soon show you that I do。  
Come; you have asked me the word for salmon in Welsh; I will now 
ask you the word for salmon…trout。  Now tell me that; and I will 
say you know something of the matter。〃

〃A tinker of my country can tell you that;〃 said I。  〃The word for 
salmon…trout is gleisiad。〃

The countenance of the woman fell。

〃I see you know something about the matter;〃 said she; 〃there are 
very few hereabouts; though so near to the Vale of Clwyd; who know 
the word for salmon…trout in Welsh; I shouldn't have known the word 
myself; but for the song which says:


Glan yw'r gleisiad yn y llyn。〃


〃And who wrote that song?〃 said I。

〃I don't know;〃 said the woman。

〃But I do;〃 said I; 〃one Lewis Morris wrote it。'

〃Oh;〃 said she; 〃I have heard all about Huw Morris。〃

〃I was not talking of Huw Morris;〃 said I; 〃but Lewis Morris; who 
lived long after Huw Morris。  He was a native of Anglesea; but 
resided for some time in Merionethshire; and whilst there composed 
a song about the Morwynion bro Meirionydd or the lasses of County 
Merion of a great many stanzas; in one of which the gleisiad is 
mentioned。  Here it is in English:


〃'Full fair the gleisiad in the flood;
Which sparkles 'neath the summer's sun;
And fair the thrush in green abode
Spreading his wings in sportive fun;
But fairer look if truth be spoke;
The maids of County Merion。'〃


The woman was about to reply; but I interrupted her。

〃There;〃 said I; 〃pray leave us to our breakfast; and t

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