wild wales-第18章
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decidedly certain ones connected with Owen Glendower。 Amongst
these is one in which he describes the Welsh chieftain's mansion at
Sycharth； and his hospitable way of living at that his favourite
residence； and another in which he hails the advent of the comet；
which made its appearance in the month of March； fourteen hundred
and two； as of good augury to his darling hero。
It was from knowing that this distinguished man lay buried in the
precincts of the old edifice； that I felt so anxious to see it。
After walking about two miles we perceived it on our right hand。
The abbey of the vale of the cross stands in a green meadow； in a
corner near the north…west end of the valley of Llangollen。 The
vale or glen； in which the abbey stands； takes its name from a
certain ancient pillar or cross； called the pillar of Eliseg； and
which is believed to have been raised over the body of an ancient
British chieftain of that name； who perished in battle against the
Saxons； about the middle of the tenth century。 In the Papist times
the abbey was a place of great pseudo…sanctity； wealth and
consequence。 The territory belonging to it was very extensive；
comprising； amongst other districts； the vale of Llangollen and the
mountain region to the north of it； called the Eglwysig Rocks；
which region derived its name Eglwysig； or ecclesiastical； from the
circumstance of its pertaining to the abbey of the vale of the
cross。
We first reached that part of the building which had once been the
church； having previously to pass through a farmyard； in which was
abundance of dirt and mire。
The church fronts the west and contains the remains of a noble
window； beneath which is a gate； which we found locked。 Passing on
we came to that part where the monks had lived； but which now
served as a farmhouse； an open doorway exhibited to us an ancient
gloomy hall； where was some curious old…fashioned furniture；
particularly an ancient rack； in which stood a goodly range of
pewter trenchers。 A respectable dame kindly welcomed us and
invited us to sit down。 We entered into conversation with her； and
asked her name； which she said was Evans。 I spoke some Welsh to
her； which pleased her。 She said that Welsh people at the present
day were so full of fine airs that they were above speaking the old
language … but that such was not the case formerly； and that she
had known a Mrs Price； who was housekeeper to the Countess of
Mornington； who lived in London upwards of forty years； and at the
end of that time prided herself upon speaking as good Welsh as she
did when a girl。 I spoke to her about the abbey； and asked if she
had ever heard of Iolo Goch。 She inquired who he was。 I told her
he was a great bard； and was buried in the abbey。 She said she had
never heard of him； but that she could show me the portrait of a
great poet； and going away； presently returned with a print in a
frame。
〃There；〃 said she； 〃is the portrait of Twm o'r Nant； generally
called the Welsh Shakespeare。〃
I looked at it。 The Welsh Shakespeare was represented sitting at a
table with a pen in his hand； a cottage…latticed window was behind
him； on his left hand； a shelf with plates； and trenchers behind
him； on his right。 His features were rude； but full of wild；
strange expression； below the picture was the following couplet：…
〃Llun Gwr yw llawn gwir Awen；
Y Byd a lanwodd o'i Ben。〃
〃Did you ever hear of Twm o'r Nant？〃 said the old dame。
〃I never heard of him by word of mouth；〃 said I； 〃but I know all
about him … I have read his life in Welsh； written by himself； and
a curious life it is。 His name was Thomas Edwards； but he
generally called himself Twm o'r Nant； or Tom of the Dingle；
because he was born in a dingle； at a place called Pen Porchell； in
the vale of Clwyd … which； by the bye； was on the estate which once
belonged to Iolo Goch； the poet I was speaking to you about just
now。 Tom was a carter by trade； but once kept a toll…bar in South
Wales； which； however； he was obliged to leave at the end of two
years； owing to the annoyance which he experienced from ghosts and
goblins； and unearthly things； particularly phantom hearses； which
used to pass through his gate at midnight without paying； when the
gate was shut。〃
〃Ah；〃 said the dame； 〃you know more about Tom o'r Nant than I do；
and was he not a great poet？〃
〃I daresay he was；〃 said I； 〃for the pieces which he wrote； and
which he called Interludes； had a great run； and he got a great
deal of money by them； but I should say the lines beneath the
portrait are more applicable to the real Shakespeare than to him。〃
〃What do the lines mean？〃 said the old lady； 〃they are Welsh； I
know； but they are far beyond my understanding。〃
〃They may be thus translated；〃 said I：
〃God in his head the Muse instill'd；
And from his head the world he fill'd。〃
〃Thank you； sir；〃 said the old lady。 〃I never found any one before
who could translate them。〃 She then said she would show me some
English lines written on the daughter of a friend of hers who was
lately dead； and put some printed lines in a frame into my hand。
They were an Elegy to Mary； and were very beautiful； I read them
aloud； and when I had finished she thanked me and said she had no
doubt that if I pleased I could put them into Welsh … she then
sighed and wiped her eyes。
On our enquiring whether we could see the interior of the abbey she
said we could； and that if we rang a bell at the gate a woman would
come to us； who was in the habit of showing the place。 We then got
up and bade her farewell … but she begged that we would stay and
taste the dwr santaidd of the holy well。
〃What holy well is that？〃 said I。
〃A well；〃 said she； 〃by the road's side； which in the time of the
popes was said to perform wonderful cures。〃
〃Let us taste it by all means；〃 said I； whereupon she went out； and
presently returned with a tray on which were a jug and tumbler； the
jug filled with the water of the holy well； we drank some of the
dwr santaidd； which tasted like any other water； and then after
shaking her by the hand； we went to the gate； and rang at the bell。
Presently a woman made her appearance at the gate … she was
genteelly drest； about the middle age； rather tall； and bearing in
her countenance the traces of beauty。 When we told her the object
of our coming she admitted us； and after locking the gate conducted
us into the church。 It was roofless； and had nothing remarkable
about it； save the western window； which we had seen from without。
Our attendant pointed out to us some tombs； and told us the names
of certain great people whose dust they contained。 〃Can you tell
us where Iolo Goch lies interred？〃 said I。
〃No；〃 said she； 〃indeed I never heard of such a person。〃
〃He was the bard of Owen Glendower；〃 said I； 〃and assisted his
cause wonderfully by the fiery odes； in which he incited the Welsh
to rise against the English。〃
〃Indeed！〃 said she； 〃well； I am sorry to say that I never heard of
him。〃
〃Are you Welsh？〃 said I。
〃I am；〃 she replied。
〃Did you ever hear of Thomas Edwards？〃
〃Oh； yes；〃 said she； 〃I have frequently heard of him。〃
〃How odd；〃 said I； 〃that the name of a great poet should be unknown
in the very place where he is buried； whilst that of one certainly
not his superior； should be well known in that same place； though
he is not buried there。〃
〃Perhaps；〃 said she； 〃the reason is that the poet； whom you
mentioned； wrote in the old measures and language which few people
now understand； whilst Thomas Edwards wrote in common verse and in
the language of the present day。〃
〃I daresay it is so；〃 said I。
From the church she led us to other parts of the ruin … at first
she had spoken to us rather cross and loftily； but she now became
kind and communicative。 She said that she resided near the ruins；
which she was permitted to show； that she lived alone； and wished
to be alone； there was something singular about her； and I believe
that she had a history of her own。 After showing us the ruins she
conducted u
