wild wales-第15章
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apparently of oak; between which and the ravine were small green
fields。 Both sides of the ravine were fringed with trees; chiefly
ash。 I descended the road which was zigzag and steep; and at last
arrived at the bottom of the valley; where there was a small
hamlet。 On the further side of the valley to the east was a steep
hill on which were a few houses … at the foot of the hill was a
brook crossed by an antique bridge of a single arch。 I directed my
course to the bridge; and after looking over the parapet for a
minute or two upon the water below; which was shallow and noisy;
ascended a road which led up the hill: a few scattered houses were
on each side。 I soon reached the top of the hill; where were some
more houses; those which I had seen from the valley below。 I was
in a Welsh mountain village; which put me much in mind of the
villages which I had strolled through of old in Castile and La
Mancha; there were the same silence and desolation here as yonder
away … the houses were built of the same material; namely stone。 I
should perhaps have fancied myself for a moment in a Castilian or
Manchegan mountain pueblicito; but for the abundance of trees which
met my eye on every side。
In walking up this mountain village I saw no one; and heard no
sound but the echo of my steps amongst the houses。 As I returned;
however; I saw a man standing at a door … he was a short figure;
about fifty。 He had an old hat on his head; a stick in his hand;
and was dressed in a duffel greatcoat。
〃Good…day; friend;〃 said I; 〃what be the name of this place?〃
〃Pont Fadog; sir; is its name; for want of a better。〃
〃That's a fine name;〃 said I; 〃it signifies in English the bridge
of Madoc。〃
〃Just so; sir; I see you know Welsh。〃
〃And I see you know English;〃 said I。
〃Very little; sir; I can read English much better than I can speak
it。〃
〃So can I Welsh;〃 said I。 〃I suppose the village is named after
the bridge。〃
〃No doubt it is; sir。〃
〃And why was the bridge called the bridge of Madoc?〃 said I。
〃Because one Madoc built it; sir。〃
〃Was he the son of Owain Gwynedd?〃 said I。
〃Ah; I see you know all about Wales; sir。 Yes; sir; he built it;
or I daresay he built it; Madawg ap Owain Gwynedd。 I have read
much about him … he was a great sailor; sir; and was the first to
discover Tir y Gorllewin or America。 Not many years ago his tomb
was discovered there with an inscription in old Welsh … saying who
he was; and how he loved the sea。 I have seen the lines which were
found on the tomb。〃
〃So have I;〃 said I; 〃or at least those which were said to be found
on a tomb: they run thus in English:…
〃'Here; after sailing far I Madoc lie;
Of Owain Gwynedd lawful progeny:
The verdant land had little charms for me;
From earliest youth I loved the dark…blue sea。'〃
〃Ah; sir;〃 said the man; 〃I see you know all about the son of Owain
Gwynedd。 Well; sir; those lines; or something like them; were
found upon the tomb of Madoc in America。〃
〃That I doubt;〃 said I。
〃Do you doubt; sir; that Madoc discovered America?〃
〃Not in the least;〃 said I; 〃but I doubt very much that his tomb
was ever discovered with the inscription which you allude to upon
it。〃
〃But it was; sir; I do assure you; and the descendants of Madoc and
his people are still to be found in a part of America speaking the
pure iaith Cymraeg better Welsh than we of Wales do。〃
〃That I doubt〃 said I。 〃However; the idea is a pretty one;
therefore cherish it。 This is a beautiful country。〃
〃A very beautiful country; sir; there is none more beautiful in all
Wales。〃
〃What is the name of the river; which runs beneath the bridge?〃
〃The Ceiriog; sir。〃
〃The Ceiriog;〃 said I; 〃the Ceiriog!〃
〃Did you ever hear the name before; sir?〃
〃I have heard of the Eos Ceiriog;〃 said I; 〃the Nightingale of
Ceiriog。〃
〃That was Huw Morris; sir; he was called the Nightingale of
Ceiriog。〃
〃Did he live hereabout?〃
〃Oh no; sir; he lived far away up towards the head of the valley;
at a place called Pont y Meibion。〃
〃Are you acquainted with his works?〃 said I。
〃Oh yes; sir; at least with some of them。 I have read the Marwnad
on Barbara Middleton; and likewise the piece on Oliver and his men。
Ah; it is a funny piece that … he did not like Oliver nor his men。〃
〃Of what profession are you?〃 said I; 〃are you a schoolmaster or
apothecary?〃
〃Neither; sir; neither; I am merely a poor shoemaker。〃
〃You know a great deal for a shoemaker;〃 said I。
〃Ah; sir; there are many shoemakers in Wales who know much more
than I。〃
〃But not in England;〃 said I。 〃Well; farewell。〃
〃Farewell; sir。 When you have any boots to mend or shoes; sir … I
shall be happy to serve you。〃
〃I do not live in these parts;〃 said I。
〃No; sir; but you are coming to live here。〃
〃How do you know that?〃 said I。
〃I know it very well; sir; you left these parts very young; and
went far away … to the East Indies; sir; where you made a large
fortune in the medical line; sir; you are now coming back to your
own valley; where you will buy a property; and settle down; and try
to recover your language; sir; and your health; sir; for you are
not the person you pretend to be; sir: I know you very well; and
shall be happy to work for you。〃
〃Well;〃 said I; 〃if I ever settle down here; I shall be happy to
employ you。 Farewell。〃
I went back the way I had come; till I reached the little hamlet。
Seeing a small public…house; I entered it。 A good…looking woman;
who met me in the passage; ushered me into a neat sanded kitchen;
handed me a chair and inquired my commands; I sat down; and told
her to bring me some ale; she brought it; and then seated herself
by a bench close by the door。
〃Rather a quiet place this;〃 said I; 〃I have seen but two faces
since I came over the hill; and yours is one。〃
〃Rather too quiet; sir;〃 said the good woman; 〃one would wish to
have more visitors。〃
〃I suppose;〃 said I; 〃people from Llangollen occasionally come to
visit you。〃
〃Sometimes; sir; for curiosity's sake; but very rarely … the way is
very steep。〃
〃Do the Tylwyth Teg ever pay you visits?〃
〃The Tylwyth Teg; sir?〃
〃Yes; the fairies。 Do they never come to have a dance on the green
sward in this neighbourhood?〃
〃Very rarely; sir; indeed; I do not know how long it is since they
have been seen。〃
〃You have never seen them?〃
〃I have not; sir; but I believe there are people living who have。〃
〃Are corpse candles ever seen on the bank of that river?〃
〃I have never heard of more than one being seen; sir; and that was
at a place where a tinker was drowned a few nights after … there
came down a flood; and the tinker in trying to cross by the usual
ford was drowned。〃
〃And did the candle prognosticate; I mean foreshow his death?〃
〃It did; sir。 When a person is to die his candle is seen a few
nights before the time of his death。〃
〃Have you ever seen a corpse candle?〃
〃I have; sir; and as you seem to be a respectable gentleman; I will
tell you all about it。 When I was a girl I lived with my parents a
little way from here。 I had a cousin; a very good young man; who
lived with his parents in the neighbourhood of our house。 He was
an exemplary young man; sir; and having a considerable gift of
prayer; was intended for the ministry; but he fell sick; and
shortly became very ill indeed。 One evening when he was lying in
this state; as I was returning home from milking; I saw a candle
proceeding from my cousin's house。 I stood still and looked at it。
It moved slowly forward for a little way; and then mounted high in
the air above the wood; which stood not far in front of the house;
and disappeared。 Just three nights after that my cousin died。〃
〃And you think that what you saw was his corpse candle?〃
〃I do; sir! what else should it be?〃
〃Are deaths prognosticated by any other means than corpse candles?〃
〃They are; sir; by the knockers; and by a supernatural voice heard
at night。〃
〃Have you ever heard the knockers; or the supernatural voice?〃
〃I have not; sir; but my father and moth