wild wales-第122章
按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
he ever wrote：…
〃Twm or Nant mae cant a'm galw；
Tomas Edwards yw fy enw；〃
Tom O Nant is a nickname I've got；
My name's Thomas Edwards； I wot。〃
CHAPTER LXXXIV
The Hospice … The Two Rivers … The Devil's Bridge … Pleasant
Recollections。
I ARRIVED at the Devil's Bridge at about eleven o'clock of a fine
but cold day； and took up my quarters at the inn； of which I was
the sole guest during the whole time that I continued there； for
the inn； standing in a lone； wild district； has very few guests
except in summer； when it is thronged with tourists； who avail
themselves of that genial season to view the wonders of Wales； of
which the region close by is considered amongst the principal。
The inn； or rather hospice … for the sounding name of hospice is
more applicable to it than the common one of inn … was built at a
great expense by the late Duke of Newcastle。 It is an immense
lofty cottage with projecting eaves； and has a fine window to the
east which enlightens a stately staircase and a noble gallery。 It
fronts the north； and stands in the midst of one of the most
remarkable localities in the world； of which it would require a far
more vigorous pen than mine to convey an adequate idea。
Far to the west is a tall； strange…looking hill； the top of which
bears no slight resemblance to that of a battlemented castle。 This
hill； which is believed to have been in ancient times a stronghold
of the Britons； bears the name of Bryn y Castell； or the hill of
the castle。 To the north…west are russet hills； to the east two
brown paps； whilst to the south is a high； swelling mountain。 To
the north； and just below the hospice； is a profound hollow with
all the appearance of the crater of an extinct volcano； at the
bottom of this hollow the waters of two rivers unite； those of the
Rheidol from the north； and those of the Afon y Mynach； or the
Monks' River； from the south…east。 The Rheidol； falling over a
rocky precipice at the northern side of the hollow； forms a
cataract very pleasant to look upon from the middle upper window of
the inn。 Those of the Mynach which pass under the celebrated
Devil's Bridge are not visible； though they generally make
themselves heard。 The waters of both； after uniting； flow away
through a romantic glen towards the west。 The sides of the hollow；
and indeed of most of the ravines in the neighbourhood； which are
numerous； are beautifully clad with wood。
Penetrate now into the hollow above which the hospice stands。 You
descend by successive flights of steps； some of which are very
slippery and insecure。 On your right is the Monks' River； roaring
down its dingle in five successive falls； to join its brother the
Rheidol。 Each of the falls has its own peculiar basin； one or two
of which are said to be of awful depth。 The length which these
falls with their basins occupy is about five hundred feet。 On the
side of the basin of the last but one is the cave； or the site of
the cave； said to have been occupied in old times by the Wicked
Children … the mysterious Plant de Bat … two brothers and a sister；
robbers and murderers。 At present it is nearly open on every side；
having； it is said； been destroyed to prevent its being the haunt
of other evil people。 There is a tradition in the country that the
fall at one time tumbled over its mouth。 This tradition； however；
is evidently without foundation； as from the nature of the ground
the river could never have run but in its present channel。 Of all
the falls； the fifth or last is the most considerable： you view it
from a kind of den； to which the last flight of steps； the
ruggedest and most dangerous of all； has brought you。 Your
position here is a wild one。 The fall； which is split into two； is
thundering beside you； foam； foam； foam is flying all about you；
the basin or cauldron is boiling frightfully below you； hirsute
rocks are frowning terribly above you； and above them forest trees；
dank and wet with spray and mist； are distilling drops in showers
from their boughs。
But where is the bridge； the celebrated bridge of the Evil Man？
From the bottom of the first flight of steps leading down into the
hollow you see a modern…looking bridge； bestriding a deep chasm or
cleft to the south…east； near the top of the dingle of the Monks'
River； over it lies the road to Pont Erwyd。 That； however； is not
the Devil's Bridge； but about twenty feet below that bridge； and
completely overhung by it； don't you see a shadowy； spectral
object； something like a bow； which likewise bestrides the chasm？
You do！ Well； that shadowy； spectral object is the celebrated
Devil's Bridge； or； as the timorous peasants of the locality call
it； the Pont y Gwr Drwg。 It is now merely preserved as an object
of curiosity； the bridge above being alone used for transit； and is
quite inaccessible except to birds and the climbing wicked boys of
the neighbourhood； who sometimes at the risk of their lives
contrive to get upon it from the frightfully steep northern bank；
and snatch a fearful joy； as； whilst lying on their bellies； they
poke their heads over its sides worn by age； without parapet to
prevent them from falling into the horrid gulf below。 But from the
steps in the hollow the view of the Devil's Bridge； and likewise of
the cleft； is very slight and unsatisfactory。 To view it properly；
and the wonders connected with it； you must pass over the bridge
above it； and descend a precipitous dingle on the eastern side till
you come to a small platform in a crag。 Below you now is a
frightful cavity； at the bottom of which the waters of the Monks'
River； which comes tumbling from a glen to the east； whirl； boil；
and hiss in a horrid pot or cauldron； called in the language of the
country Twll yn y graig； or the hole in the rock； in a manner truly
tremendous。 On your right is a slit； probably caused by volcanic
force； through which the waters after whirling in the cauldron
eventually escape。 The slit is wonderfully narrow； considering its
altitude which is very great … considerably upwards of a hundred
feet。 Nearly above you； crossing the slit； which is partially
wrapt in darkness； is the far…famed bridge； the Bridge of the Evil
Man； a work which； though crumbling and darkly grey； does much
honour to the hand which built it； whether it was the hand of Satan
or of a monkish architect； for the arch is chaste and beautiful；
far superior in every respect； except in safety and utility； to the
one above it； which from this place you have not the mortification
of seeing。 Gaze on these objects； namely； the horrid seething pot
or cauldron； the gloomy volcanic slit； and the spectral； shadowy
Devil's Bridge for about three minutes； allowing a minute to each；
then scramble up the bank and repair to your inn； and have no more
sight…seeing that day； for you have seen enough。 And if pleasant
recollections do not haunt you through life of the noble falls and
the beautiful wooded dingles to the west of the bridge of the Evil
One； and awful and mysterious ones of the monks' boiling cauldron；
the long； savage； shadowy cleft； and the grey； crumbling； spectral
bridge； I say boldly that you must be a very unpoetical person
indeed。
CHAPTER LXXXV
Dinner at the Hospice … Evening Gossip … A Day of Rain … A Scanty
Flock … The Bridge of the Minister … Legs in Danger。
I DINED in a parlour of the inn commanding an excellent view of the
hollow and the Rheidol fall。 Shortly after I had dined； a fierce
storm of rain and wind came on。 It lasted for an hour； and then
everything again became calm。 Just before evening was closing in I
took a stroll to a village which stands a little way to the west of
the inn。 It consists only of a few ruinous edifices； and is
chiefly inhabited by miners and their families。 I saw no men； but
plenty of women and children。 Seeing a knot of women and girls
chatting I went up and addressed them。 Some of the girls were very
good…looking； none of the party had any English； all of them were
very civil。 I first talked to the
