wild wales-第12章
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catch a hundredth part of the fish which were caught in the river：
that the proprietors went with their keepers； and perhaps caught
two or three stone of fish； or that strangers went with the
keepers； whom they paid for teaching them how to fish； and perhaps
caught half…a…dozen fish； and that shortly after the keepers would
return and catch on their own account sixty stone of fish from the
very spot where the proprietors or strangers had great difficulty
in catching two or three stone or the half…dozen fish； or the
poachers would go and catch a yet greater quantity。 He added that
gentry did not understand how to catch fish； and that to attempt to
preserve was nonsense。 I told him that if the river was flung open
everybody would fish； he said that I was much mistaken； that
hundreds who were now poachers； would then keep at home； mind their
proper trades； and never use line or spear； that folks always
longed to do what they were forbidden； and that Shimei would never
have crossed the brook provided he had not been told he should be
hanged if he did。 That he himself had permission to fish in the
river whenever he pleased； but never availed himself of it； though
in his young time； when he had no leave； he had been an arrant
poacher。
The manners and way of speaking of this old personage put me very
much in mind of those of Morgan； described by Smollett in his
immortal novel of 〃Roderick Random。〃 I had more discourse with
him： I asked him in what line of business he was； he told me that
he sold coals。 From his complexion； and the hue of his shirt； I
had already concluded that he was in some grimy trade。 I then
inquired of what religion he was； and received for answer that he
was a Baptist。 I thought that both himself and part of his apparel
would look all the better for a good immersion。 We talked of the
war then raging … he said it was between the false prophet and the
Dragon。 I asked him who the Dragon was … he said the Turk。 I told
him that the Pope was far worse than either the Turk or the
Russian； that his religion was the vilest idolatry； and that he
would let no one alone。 That it was the Pope who drove his fellow
religionists the Anabaptists out of the Netherlands。 He asked me
how long ago that was。 Between two and three hundred years I
replied。 He asked me the meaning of the word Anabaptist； I told
him； whereupon he expressed great admiration for my understanding；
and said that he hoped he should see me again。
I inquired of him to what place the bridge led； he told me that if
I passed over it； and ascended a high bank beyond； I should find
myself on the road from Llangollen to Corwen and that if I wanted
to go to Llangollen I must turn to the left。 I thanked him； and
passing over the bridge； and ascending the bank； found myself upon
a broad road。 I turned to the left； and walking briskly in about
half an hour reached our cottage in the northern suburb； where I
found my family and dinner awaiting me。
CHAPTER IX
The Dinner … English Foibles … Pengwern … The Yew…Tree … Carn…
Lleidyr … Applications of a Term。
FOR dinner we had salmon and leg of mutton； the salmon from the
Dee； the leg from the neighbouring Berwyn。 The salmon was good
enough； but I had eaten better； and here it will not be amiss to
say； that the best salmon in the world is caught in the Suir； a
river that flows past the beautiful town of Clonmel in Ireland。 As
for the leg of mutton it was truly wonderful； nothing so good had I
ever tasted in the shape of a leg of mutton。 The leg of mutton of
Wales beats the leg of mutton of any other country； and I had never
tasted a Welsh leg of mutton before。 Certainly I shall never
forget that first Welsh leg of mutton which I tasted； rich but
delicate； replete with juices derived from the aromatic herbs of
the noble Berwyn； cooked to a turn； and weighing just four pounds。
〃O its savoury smell was great；
Such as well might tempt； I trow；
One that's dead to lift his brow。〃
Let any one who wishes to eat leg of mutton in perfection go to
Wales； but mind you to eat leg of mutton only。 Welsh leg of mutton
is superlative； but with the exception of the leg； the mutton of
Wales is decidedly inferior to that of many other parts of Britain。
Here； perhaps； as I have told the reader what we ate for dinner； it
will be as well to tell him what we drank at dinner。 Let him know
then； that with our salmon we drank water； and with our mutton ale；
even ale of Llangollen； but not the best ale of Llangollen； it was
very fair； but I subsequently drank far better Llangollen ale than
that which I drank at our first dinner in our cottage at
Llangollen。
In the evening I went across the bridge and strolled along in a
south…east direction。 Just as I had cleared the suburb a man
joined me from a cottage； on the top of a high bank； whom I
recognised as the mower with whom I had held discourse in the
morning。 He saluted me and asked me if I were taking a walk； I
told him I was； whereupon he said that if I were not too proud to
wish to be seen walking with a poor man like himself； he should
wish to join me。 I told him I should be glad of his company； and
that I was not ashamed to be seen walking with any person； however
poor； who conducted himself with propriety。 He replied that I must
be very different from my countrymen in general； who were ashamed
to be seen walking with any people； who were not； at least； as
well…dressed as themselves。 I said that my country…folk in general
had a great many admirable qualities； but at the same time a great
many foibles； foremost amongst which last was a crazy admiration
for what they called gentility； which made them sycophantic to
their superiors in station； and extremely insolent to those whom
they considered below them。 He said that I had spoken his very
thoughts； and then asked me whether I wished to be taken the most
agreeable walk near Llangollen。
On my replying by all means； he led me along the road to the south…
east。 A pleasant road it proved： on our right at some distance
was the mighty Berwyn； close on our left the hill called Pen y
Coed。 I asked him what was beyond the Berwyn？
〃A very wild country； indeed；〃 he replied； 〃consisting of wood；
rock； and river； in fact； an anialwch。〃
He then asked if I knew the meaning of anialwch。
〃A wilderness；〃 I replied； 〃you will find the word in the Welsh
Bible。〃
〃Very true； sir；〃 said he； 〃it was there I met it； but I did not
know the meaning of it； till it was explained to me by one of our
teachers。〃
On my inquiring of what religion he was； he told me he was a
Calvinistic…Methodist。
We passed an ancient building which stood on our right。 I turned
round to look at it。 Its back was to the road： at its eastern end
was a fine arched window like the oriel window of a church
〃That building；〃 said my companion； 〃is called Pengwern Hall。 It
was once a convent of nuns； a little time ago a farm…house； but is
now used as a barn； and a place of stowage。 Till lately it
belonged to the Mostyn family； but they disposed of it； with the
farm on which it stood； together with several other farms； to
certain people from Liverpool； who now live yonder；〃 pointing to a
house a little way farther on。 I still looked at the edifice。
〃You seem to admire the old building；〃 said my companion。
〃I was not admiring it；〃 said I； 〃I was thinking of the difference
between its present and former state。 Formerly it was a place
devoted to gorgeous idolatry and obscene lust； now it is a quiet
old barn in which hay and straw are placed； and broken tumbrels
stowed away： surely the hand of God is visible here？〃
〃It is so； sir；〃 said the man in a respectful tone； 〃and so it is
in another place in this neighbourhood。 About three miles from
here； in the north…west part of the valley； is an old edifice。 It
is now a farm…house； but was once a splendid abbey； and was called
… 〃
〃The abbey of the vale of the cross；〃 said I； 〃I have read a deal
about it。 Iolo Goch； the bard of your celebrated her
