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〃No; it hasn't;〃 said the old fellow; 〃it never produced one。  If 
it had; you wouldn't have needed to come here to see the grave of a 
poet; you would have found one at home。〃

As he said these words he got up; took his stick; and seemed about 
to depart。  Just then in burst a rabble rout of game…keepers and 
river…watchers who had come from the petty sessions; and were in 
high glee; the two poachers whom the landlord had mentioned having 
been convicted and heavily fined。  Two or three of them were 
particularly boisterous; running against some of the guests who 
were sitting or standing in the kitchen; and pushing the landlord 
about; crying at the same time that they would stand by Sir Watkin 
to the last; and would never see him plundered。  One of them; a 
fellow of about thirty; in a hairy cap; black coat; dirty yellow 
breeches; and dirty white top…boots; who was the most obstreperous 
of them all; at last came up to the old chap who disliked South 
Welshmen and tried to knock off his hat; swearing that he would 
stand by Sir Watkin; he; however; met a Tartar。  The enemy of the 
South Welsh; like all crusty people; had lots of mettle; and with 
the stick which he held in his hand forthwith aimed a blow at the 
fellow's poll; which; had he not jumped back; would probably have 
broken it。

〃I will not be insulted by you; you vagabond;〃 said the old chap; 
〃nor by Sir Watkin either; go and tell him so。〃

The fellow looked sheepish; and turning away proceeded to take 
liberties with other people less dangerous to meddle with than old 
crabstick。  He; however; soon desisted; and sat down evidently 
disconcerted。

〃Were you ever worse treated in South Wales by the people there 
than you have been here by your own countrymen?〃 said I to the old 
fellow。

〃My countrymen?〃 said he; 〃this scamp is no countryman of mine; nor 
is one of the whole kit。  They are all from Wrexham; a mixture of 
broken housekeepers and fellows too stupid to learn a trade; a set 
of scamps fit for nothing in the world but to swear bodily against 
honest men。  They say they will stand up for Sir Watkin; and so 
they will; but only in a box in the Court to give false evidence。  
They won't fight for him on the banks of the river。  Countrymen of 
mine; indeed! they are no countrymen of mine; they are from 
Wrexham; where the people speak neither English nor Welsh; not even 
South Welsh as you do。〃

Then giving a kind of flourish with his stick he departed。



CHAPTER LXVIII



Llan Silin Church … Tomb of Huw Morris … Barbara and Richard … 
Welsh Country Clergyman … The Swearing Lad … Anglo…Saxon Devils。


HAVING discussed my ale I asked the landlord if he would show me 
the grave of Huw Morris。  〃With pleasure; sir;〃 said he; 〃pray 
follow me。〃  He led me to the churchyard; in which several enormous 
yew trees were standing; probably of an antiquity which reached as 
far back as the days of Henry the Eighth; when the yew bow was 
still the favourite weapon of the men of Britain。  The church 
fronts the south; the portico being in that direction。  The body of 
the sacred edifice is ancient; but the steeple which bears a gilded 
cock on its top is modern。  The innkeeper led me directly up to the 
southern wall; then pointing to a broad discoloured slab; which lay 
on the ground just outside the wall; about midway between the 
portico and the oriel end; he said:

〃Underneath this stone lies Huw Morris; sir。〃  Forthwith taking off 
my hat I went down on my knees and kissed the cold slab covering 
the cold remains of the mighty Huw; and then; still on my knees; 
proceeded to examine it attentively。  It is covered over with 
letters three parts defaced。  All I could make out of the 
inscription was the date of the poet's death; 1709。  〃A great 
genius; a very great genius; sir;〃 said the inn…keeper; after I had 
got on my feet and put on my hat。

〃He was indeed;〃 said I; 〃are you acquainted with his poetry?〃

〃Oh yes;〃 said the innkeeper; and then repeated the four lines 
composed by the poet shortly before his death; which I had heard 
the intoxicated stonemason repeat in the public…house of the Pandy; 
the day I went to visit the poet's residence with John Jones。

〃Do you know any more of Huw's poetry?〃 said I。

〃No;〃 said the innkeeper。  〃Those lines; however; I have known ever 
since I was a child and repeated them; more particularly of late 
since age has come upon me and I have felt that I cannot last 
long。〃

It is very odd how few of the verses of great poets are in people's 
mouths。  Not more than a dozen of Shakespear's lines are in 
people's mouths:  of those of Pope not more than half that number。  
Of Addison's poetry two or three lines may be in people's mouths; 
though I never heard one quoted; the only line which I ever heard 
quoted as Addison's not being his but Garth's:


〃'Tis best repenting in a coach and six。'


Whilst of the verses of Huw Morris I never knew any one but myself; 
who am not a Welshman; who could repeat a line beyond the four 
which I have twice had occasion to mention; and which seem to be 
generally known in North if not in South Wales。

From the flagstone I proceeded to the portico and gazed upon it 
intensely。  It presented nothing very remarkable; but it had the 
greatest interest for me; for I remembered how many times Huw 
Morris had walked out of that porch at the head of the 
congregation; the clergyman yielding his own place to the inspired 
bard。  I would fain have entered the church; but the landlord had 
not the key; and told me that he imagined there would be some 
difficulty in procuring it。  I was therefore obliged to content 
myself with peeping through a window into the interior; which had a 
solemn and venerable aspect。

〃Within there;〃 said I to myself; 〃Huw Morris; the greatest 
songster of the seventeenth century; knelt every Sunday during the 
latter thirty years of his life; after walking from Pont y Meibion 
across the bleak and savage Berwyn。  Within there was married 
Barbara Wynn; the Rose of Maelai; to Richard Middleton; the 
handsome cavalier of Maelor; and within there she lies buried; even 
as the songster who lamented her untimely death in immortal verse 
lies buried out here in the graveyard。  What interesting 
associations has this church for me; both outside and in; but all 
connected with Huw; for what should I have known of Barbara; the 
Rose; and gallant Richard but for the poem on their affectionate 
union and untimely separation; the dialogue between the living and 
the dead; composed by humble Huw; the farmer's son of Ponty y 
Meibion?〃

After gazing through the window till my eyes watered I turned to 
the innkeeper; and inquired the way to Llan Rhyadr。  Having 
received from him the desired information I thanked him for his 
civility; and set out on my return。

Before I could get clear of the town I suddenly encountered my 
friend R…; the clever lawyer and magistrate's clerk of Llangollen。

〃I little expected to see you here;〃 said he。

〃Nor I you;〃 I replied。

〃I came in my official capacity;〃 said he; 〃the petty sessions have 
been held here to…day。〃

〃I know they have;〃 I replied; 〃and that two poachers have been 
convicted。  I came here on my way to South Wales to see the grave 
of Huw Morris; who; as you know; is buried in the churchyard。〃

〃Have you seen the clergyman?〃 said R…。

〃No;〃 I replied。

〃Then come with me;〃 said he; 〃I am now going to call upon him。  I 
know he will be rejoiced to make your acquaintance。〃

He led me to the clergyman's house; which stood at the south…west 
end of the village within a garden fenced with an iron paling。  We 
found the clergyman in a nice comfortable parlour or study; the 
sides of which were decorated with books。  He was a sharp clever…
looking man; of about the middle age。  On my being introduced to 
him he was very glad to see me; as my friend R… told me he would 
be。  He seemed to know all about me; even that I understood Welsh。  
We conversed on various subjects:  on the power of the Welsh 
language; its mutable letters; on Huw Morris; and likewise on ale; 
with an ex

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