the book of tea-第2章
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preme。
The earliest record of tea in European writing is said to be found in the statement of an Arabian traveller； that after the year 879 the main sources of revenue in Canton were the duties on salt and tea。 Marco Polo records the deposition of a Chinese minister of finance in 1285 for his arbitrary augmentation of the tea…taxes。 It was at the period of the great discoveries that the European people began to know more about the extreme Orient。 At the end of the sixteenth century the Hollanders brought the news that a pleasant drink was made in the East from the leaves of a bush。 The travellers Giovanni Batista Ramusio （1559）； L。 Almeida （1576）； Maffeno （1588）； Tareira （1610）； also mentioned tea。 In the last…named year ships of the Dutch East India Company brought the first tea into Europe。 It was known in France in 1636； and reached Russia in 1638。 England welcomed it in 1650 and spoke of it as 〃That excellent and by all physicians approved China drink； called by the Chineans Tcha； and by other nations Tay； alias Tee。〃
Like all good things of the world； the propaganda of Tea met with opposition。 Heretics like Henry Saville （1678） denounced drinking it as a filthy custom。 Jonas Hanway （Essay on Tea； 1756） said that men seemed to lose their stature and comeliness； women their beauty through the use of tea。 Its cost at the start （about fifteen or sixteen shillings a pound） forbade popular consumption； and made it 〃regalia for high treatments and entertainments； presents being made thereof to princes and grandees。〃 Yet in spite of such drawbacks tea…drinking spread with marvellous rapidity。 The coffee…houses of London in the early half of the eighteenth century became； in fact； tea…houses； the resort of wits like Addison and Steele； who beguiled themselves over their 〃dish of tea。〃 The beverage soon became a necessity of lifea taxable matter。 We are reminded in this connection what an important part it plays in modern history。 Colonial America resigned herself to oppression until human endurance gave way before the heavy duties laid on Tea。 American independence dates from the throwing of tea…chests into Boston harbour。
There is a subtle charm in the taste of tea which makes it irresistible and capable of idealisation。 Western humourists were not slow to mingle the fragrance of their thought with its aroma。 It has not the arrogance of wine； the self… consciousness of coffee； nor the simpering innocence of cocoa。 Already in 1711； says the Spectator： 〃I would therefore in a particular manner recommend these my speculations to all well…regulated families that set apart an hour every morning for tea； bread and butter； and would earnestly advise them for their good to order this paper to be punctually served up and to be looked upon as a part of the tea…equipage。〃 Samuel Johnson draws his own portrait as 〃a hardened and shameless tea drinker； who for twenty years diluted his meals with only the infusion of the fascinating plant； who with tea amused the evening； with tea solaced the midnight； and with tea welcomed the morning。〃
Charles Lamb； a professed devotee； sounded the true note of Teaism when he wrote that the greatest pleasure he knew was to do a good action by stealth； and to have it found out by accident。 For Teaism is the art of concealing beauty that you may discover it； of suggesting what you dare not reveal。 It is the noble secret of laughing at yourself； calmly yet thoroughly； and is thus humour itself；the smile of philosophy。 All genuine humourists may in this sense be called tea…philosophers；Thackeray； for instance； and of course； Shakespeare。 The poets of the Decadence （when was not the world in decadence？）； in their protests against materialism； have； to a certain extent； also opened the way to Teaism。 Perhaps nowadays it is our demure contemplation of the Imperfect that the West and the East can meet in mutual consolation。
The Taoists relate that at the great beginning of the No…Beginning； Spirit and Matter met in mortal combat。 At last the Yellow Emperor； the Sun of Heaven； triumphed over Shuhyung； the demon of darkness and earth。 The Titan； in his death agony； struck his head against the solar vault and shivered the blue dome of jade into fragments。 The stars lost their nests； the moon wandered aimlessly among the wild chasms of the night。 In despair the Yellow Emperor sought far and wide for the repairer of the Heavens。 He had not to search in vain。 Out of the Eastern sea rose a queen； the divine Niuka； horn…crowned and dragon…tailed； resplendent in her armor of fire。 She welded the five…coloured rainbow in her magic cauldron and rebuilt the Chinese sky。 But it is told that Niuka forgot to fill two tiny crevices in the blue firmament。 Thus began the dualism of lovetwo souls rolling through space and never at rest until they join together to complete the universe。 Everyone has to build anew his sky of hope and peace。
The heaven of modern humanity is indeed shattered in the Cyclopean struggle for wealth and power。 The world is groping in the shadow of egotism and vulgarity。 Knowledge is bought through a bad conscience； benevolence practiced for the sake of utility。 The East and the West； like two dragons tossed in a sea of ferment； in vain strive to regain the jewel of life。 We need a Niuka again to repair the grand devastation； we await the great Avatar。 Meanwhile； let us have a sip of tea。 The afternoon glow is brightening the bamboos； the fountains are bubbling with delight； the soughing of the pines is heard in our kettle。 Let us dream of evanescence； and linger in the beautiful foolishness of things。
II。 The Schools of Tea。
Tea is a work of art and needs a master hand to bring out its noblest qualities。 We have good and bad tea； as we have good and bad paintingsgenerally the latter。 There is no single recipe for making the perfect tea； as there are no rules for producing a Titian or a Sesson。 Each preparation of the leaves has its individuality； its special affinity with water and heat； its own method of telling a story。 The truly beautiful must always be in it。 How much do we not suffer through the constant failure of society to recognise this simple and fundamental law of art and life； Lichilai； a Sung poet； has sadly remarked that there were three most deplorable things in the world： the spoiling of fine youths through false education； the degradation of fine art through vulgar admiration； and the utter waste of fine tea through incompetent manipulation。
Like Art； Tea has its periods and its schools。 Its evolution may be roughly divided into three main stages： the Boiled Tea； the Whipped Tea； and the Steeped Tea。 We moderns belong to the last school。 These several methods of appreciating the beverage are indicative of the spirit of the age in which they prevailed。 For life is an expression； our unconscious actions the constant betrayal of our innermost thought。 Confucius said that 〃man hideth not。〃 Perhaps we reveal ourselves too much in small things because we have so little of the great to conceal。 The tiny incidents of daily routine are as much a commentary of racial ideals as the highest flight of philosophy or poetry。 Even as the difference in favorite vintage marks the separate idiosyncrasies of different periods and nationalities of Europe； so the Tea…ideals characterise the various moods of Oriental culture。 The Cake…tea which was boiled； the Powdered…tea which was whipped； the Leaf…tea which was steeped； mark the distinct emotional impulses of the Tang； the Sung； and the Ming dynasties of China。 If we were inclined to borrow the much…abused terminology of art…classification； we might designate them respectively； the Classic； the Romantic； and the Naturalistic schools of Tea。
The tea…plant； a native of southern China； was known from very early times to Chinese botany and medicine。 It is alluded to in the classics under the various names of Tou； Tseh； Chung； Kha； and Ming； and was highly prized for possessing the virtues of relieving fatigue； delighting the soul； strengthening the will； and repairing the eyesight。 It was not only administered as an internal dose； but often applied externally in fo
