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第3章

the confessions of a summer colonist-第3章

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lolling groups of men; women; and children on the sand。  In the more
active gayeties; I have seen nothing so decided during the whole season
as the behavior of three young girls who once came up out of the sea; and
obliged me by dancing a measure on the smooth; hard beach in their
bathing…dresses。

I thought it very pretty; but I do not believe such a thing could have
been seen on OUR beach; which is safe from all excursionists; and sacred
to the cottage and hotel life of the Port。

Besides our beach and its bathing; we have a reading…club for the men;
evolved from one of the old native houses; and verandaed round for summer
use; and we have golf…links and a golf club…house within easy trolley
reach。  The links are as energetically; if not as generally; frequented
as the sands; and the sport finds the favor which attends it everywhere
in the decay of tennis。  The tennis…courts which I saw thronged about by
eager girl…crowds; here; seven years ago; are now almost wholly abandoned
to the lovers of the game; who are nearly always men。

Perhaps the only thing (besides; of course; our common mortality) which
we have in common with the excursionists is our love of the trolley…line。
This; by its admirable equipment; and by the terror it inspires in
horses; has well…nigh abolished driving; and following the old country
roads; as it does; with an occasional short…cut though the deep; green…
lighted woods or across the prismatic salt meadows; it is of a
picturesque variety entirely satisfying。  After a year of fervent
opposition and protest; the whole communitywhether of summer or of
winter folksnow gladly accepts the trolley; and the grandest cottager
and the lowliest hotel dweller meet in a grateful appreciation of its
beauty and comfort。

Some pass a great part of every afternoon on the trolley; and one lady
has achieved celebrity by spending four dollars a week in trolley…rides。
The exhilaration of these is varied with an occasional apprehension when
the car pitches down a sharp incline; and twists almost at right angles
on a sudden curve at the bottom without slacking its speed。  A lady who
ventured an appeal to the conductor at one such crisis was reassured; and
at the same time taught her place; by his reply: 〃That motorman's life;
ma'am; is just as precious to him as what yours is to you。〃

She had; perhaps; really ventured too far; for ordinarily the employees
of the trolley do not find occasion to use so much severity with their
passengers。  They look after their comfort as far as possible; and seek
even to anticipate their wants in unexpected cases; if I may believe a
story which was told by a witness。  She had long expected to see some one
thrown out of the open car at one of the sharp curves; and one day she
actually saw a woman hurled from the seat into the road。  Luckily the
woman slighted on her feet; and stood looking round in a daze。

〃Oh! oh!〃 exclaimed another woman in the seat behind; 〃she's left her
umbrella!〃

The conductor promptly threw it out to her。

〃Why;〃 demanded the witness; 〃did that lady wish to get out here?〃

The conductor hesitated before he jerked the bellpull to go on: Then he
said; 〃Well; she'll want her umbrella; anyway。〃

The conductors are; in fact; very civil as well as kind。  If they see a
horse in anxiety at the approach of the car; they considerately stop; and
let him get by with his driver in safety。  By such means; with their
frequent trips and low fares; and with the ease and comfort of their
cars; they have conciliated public favor; and the trolley has drawn
travel away from the steam railroad in such measure that it ran no trains
last winter。

The trolley; in fact; is a fad of the summer folks this year; but what it
will be another no one knows; it may be their hissing and by…word。  In
the mean time; as I have already suggested; they have other amusements。
These are not always of a nature so general as the trolley; or so
particular as the tea。  But each of the larger hotels has been fully
supplied with entertainments for the benefit of their projectors; though
nearly everything of the sort had some sort of charitable slant。  I
assisted at a stereopticon lecture on Alaska for the aid of some youthful
Alaskans of both sexes; who were shown first in their savage state; and
then as they appeared after a merely rudimental education; in the
costumes and profiles of our own civilization。  I never would have
supposed that education could do so much in so short a time; and I gladly
gave my mite for their further development in classic beauty and a final
elegance。  My mite was taken up in a hat; which; passed round among the
audience; is a common means of collecting the spectators' expressions of
appreciation。  Other entertainments; of a prouder frame; exact an
admission fee; but I am not sure that these are better than some of the
hat…shows; as they are called。

The tale of our summer amusements would be sadly incomplete without some
record of the bull…fights given by the Spanish prisoners of war on the
neighboring island; where they were confined the year of the war。
Admission to these could be had only by favor of the officers in charge;
and even among the Elite of the colony those who went were a more elect
few。  Still; the day I went; there were some fifty or seventy…five
spectators; who arrived by trolley near the island; and walked to the
stockade which confined the captives。  A real bull…fight; I believe; is
always given on Sunday; and Puritan prejudice yielded to usage even in
the case of a burlesque bull…fight; at any rate; it was on a Sunday that
we crouched in an irregular semicircle on a rising ground within the
prison pale; and faced the captive audience in another semicircle; across
a little alley for the entrances and exits of the performers。  The
president of the bull…fight was first brought to the place of honor in a
hand…cart; and then came the banderilleros; the picadores; and the
espada; wonderfully effective and correct in white muslin and colored
tissue…paper。  Much may be done in personal decoration with advertising
placards; and the lofty mural crown of the president urged the public on
both sides to Use Plug Cut。  The picador's pasteboard horse was attached
to his middle; fore and aft; and looked quite the sort of hapless jade
which is ordinarily sacrificed to the bulls。  The toro himself was
composed of two prisoners; whose horizontal backs were covered with a
brown blanket; and his feet; sometimes bare and sometimes shod with
india…rubber boots; were of the human pattern。  Practicable horns; of a
somewhat too yielding substance; branched from a front of pasteboard; and
a cloth tail; apt to come off in the charge; swung from his rear。  I have
never seen a genuine corrida; but a lady present; who had; told me that
this was conducted with all the right circumstance; and it is certain
that the performers entered into their parts with the artistic gust of
their race。  The picador sustained some terrific falls; and in his
quality of horse had to be taken out repeatedly and sewed up; the
banderilleros tormented and eluded the toro with table…covers; one red
and two drab; till the espada took him from them; and with due ceremony;
after a speech to the president; drove his blade home to the bull's
heart。  I stayed to see three bulls killed; the last was uncommonly
fierce; and when his hindquarters came off or out; his forequarters
charged joyously among the aficionados on the prisoners' side; and made
havoc in their thickly packed ranks。  The espada who killed this bull was
showered with cigars and cigarettes from our side。

I do not know what the Sabbath…keeping shades of the old Puritans made of
our presence at such a fete on Sunday; but possibly they had got on so
far in a better life as to be less shocked at the decay of piety among us
than pleased at the rise of such Christianity as had brought us; like
friends and comrades; together with our public enemies in this harmless
fun。  I wish to say that the tobacco lavished upon the espada was
collected for the behoof of all the prisoners。

Our fiction has made so much of our summer places as the mise en

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