part07-第2章
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The deepening twilight; which; in this climate; is of short
duration; admonished us to leave this haunted ground。 As we
descended the mountain defile; there was no longer herdsman nor
muleteer to be seen; nor any thing to be heard but our own footsteps
and the lonely chirping of the cricket。 The shadows of the valley grew
deeper and deeper; until all was dark around us。 The lofty summit of
the Sierra Nevada alone retained a lingering gleam of daylight; its
snowy peaks glaring against the dark blue firmament; and seeming close
to us; from the extreme purity of the atmosphere。
〃How near the Sierra looks this evening!〃 said Mateo; 〃it seems as
if you could touch it with your hand; and yet it is many long
leagues off。〃 While he was speaking; a star appeared over the snowy
summit of the mountain; the only one yet visible in the heavens; and
so pure; so large; so bright and beautiful; as to call forth
ejaculations of delight from honest Mateo。
〃Que estrella hermosa! que clara y limpia es!… No pueda ser estrella
mas brillante!〃 (〃What a beautiful star! how clear and lucid… a star
could not be more brilliant!〃)
I have often remarked this sensibility of the common people of Spain
to the charms of natural objects。 The lustre of a star; the beauty
or fragrance of a flower; the crystal purity of a fountain; will
inspire them with a kind of poetical delight; and then; what
euphonious words their magnificent language affords; with which to
give utterance to their transports!
〃But what lights are those; Mateo; which I see twinkling along the
Sierra Nevada; just below the snowy region; and which might be taken
for stars; only that they are ruddy; and against the dark side of
the mountain?〃
〃Those; senor; are fires; made by the men who gather snow and ice
for the supply of Granada。 They go up every afternoon with mules and
asses; and take turns; some to rest and warm themselves by the
fires; while others fill the panniers with ice。 They then set off down
the mountains; so as to reach the gates of Granada before sunrise。
That Sierra Nevada; senor; is a lump of ice in the middle of
Andalusia; to keep it all cool in summer。〃
It was now completely dark; we were passing through the barranco;
where stood the cross of the murdered muleteer; when I beheld a number
of lights moving at a distance; and apparently advancing up the
ravine。 On nearer approach; they proved to be torches borne by a train
of uncouth figures arrayed in black: it would have been a procession
dreary enough at any time; but was peculiarly so in this wild and
solitary place。
Mateo drew near; and told me; in a low voice; that it was a
funeral train bearing a corpse to the burying…ground among the hills。
As the procession passed by; the lugubrious light of the torches;
falling on the rugged features and funeral…weeds of the attendants;
had the most fantastic effect; but was perfectly ghastly; as it
revealed the countenance of the corpse; which; according to the
Spanish custom; was borne uncovered on an open bier。 I remained for
some time gazing after the dreary train as it wound up the dark defile
of the mountain。 It put me in mind of the old story of a procession of
demons bearing the body of a sinner up the crater of Stromboli。
〃Ah! senor;〃 cried Mateo; 〃I could tell you a story of a
procession once seen among these mountains; but then you'd laugh at
me; and say it was one of the legacies of my grandfather the tailor。〃
〃By no means; Mateo。 There is nothing I relish more than a
marvellous tale。〃
〃Well; senor; it is about one of those very men we have been talking
of; who gather snow on the Sierra Nevada。
〃You must know; that a great many years since; in my grandfather's
time; there was an old fellow; Tio Nicolo (Uncle Nicholas) by name;
who had filled the panniers of his mule with snow and ice; and was
returning down the mountain。 Being very drowsy; he mounted upon the
mule; and soon falling asleep; went with his head nodding and
bobbing about from side to side; while his surefooted old mule stepped
along the edge of precipices; and down steep and broken barrancos;
just as safe and steady as if it had been on plain ground。 At
length; Tio Nicolo awoke; and gazed about him; and rubbed his eyes…
and; in good truth; he had reason。 The moon shone almost as bright
as day; and he saw the city below him; as plain as your hand; and
shining with its white buildings; like a silver platter in the
moonshine; but; Lord! senor; it was nothing like the city he had
left a few hours before! Instead of the cathedral; with its great dome
and turrets; and the churches with their spires; and the convents with
their pinnacles; all surmounted with the blessed cross; he saw nothing
but Moorish mosques; and minarets; and cupolas; all topped off with
glittering crescents; such as you see on the Barbary flags。
〃Well; senor; as you may suppose; Tio Nicolo was mightily puzzled at
all this; but while he was gazing down upon the city; a great army
came marching up the mountains; winding along the ravines; sometimes
in the moonshine sometimes in the shade。 As it drew nigh; he saw
that there were horse and foot all in Moorish armor。 Tio Nicolo
tried to scramble out of their way; but his old mule stood stock
still; and refused to budge; trembling; at the same time; like a leaf…
for dumb beasts; senor; are just as much frightened at such things
as human beings。 Well; senor; the hobgoblin army came marching by;
there were men that seemed to blow trumpets; and others to beat
drums and strike cymbals; yet never a sound did they make; they all
moved on without the least noise; just as I have seen painted armies
move across the stage in the theatre of Granada; and all looked as
pale as death。 At last; in the rear of the army; between two black
Moorish horsemen; rode the Grand Inquisitor of Granada; on a mule as
white as snow。 Tio Nicolo wondered to see him in such company; for the
Inquisitor was famous for his hatred of Moors; and indeed; of all
kinds of Infidels; Jews; and Heretics; and used to hunt them out
with fire and scourge。
〃However; Tio Nicolo felt himself safe; now that there was a
priest of such sanctity at hand。 So making the sign of the cross; he
called out for his benediction; when hombre! he received a blow that
sent him and his old mule over the edge of a steep bank; down which
they rolled; head over heels; to the bottom! Tio Nicolo did not come
to his senses until long after sunrise; when he found himself at the
bottom of a deep ravine; his mule grazing beside him; and his panniers
of snow completely melted。 He crawled back to Granada sorely bruised
and battered; but was glad to find the city looking as usual; with
Christian churches and crosses。
〃When he told the story of his night's adventure; every one
laughed at him; some said he had dreamed it all; as he dozed on his
mule; others thought it all a fabrication of his own… but what was
strange; senor; and made people afterwards think more seriously of the
matter; was; that the Grand Inquisitor died within the year。 I have
often heard my grandfather; the tailor; say that there was more
meant by that hobgoblin army bearing off the resemblance of the
priest; than folks dared to surmise。〃
〃Then you would insinuate; friend Mateo; that there is a kind of
Moorish limbo; or purgatory; in the bowels of these mountains; to
which the padre Inquisitor was borne off。〃
〃God forbid; senor! I know nothing of the matter。 I only relate what
I heard from my grandfather。〃
By the time Mateo had finished the tale which I have more succinctly
related; and which was interlarded with many comments; and spun out
with minute details; we reached the gate of the Alhambra。
The marvellous stories hinted at by Mateo; in the early part of
our ramble about the Tower of the Seven Floors; set me as usual upon
my goblin researches。 I found that the redoubtable phantom; the
Belludo; had bee