the land of footprints-第13章
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little excursion with the lancet and permanganate。 The African traveller gets to be heap big medicine man within these narrow limits。
All the red cowls squatted miserably； oh； very miserably； in a row。 The headman stood over them rather fiercely。 We surveyed the lot contemplatively； hoping to heaven that nothing complicated was going to turn up。 One of the tent boys hovered in the background as dispensing chemist。
〃Well；〃 said F。 at last； 〃what's the matter with you？〃
The man indicated pointed to his head and the back of his neck and groaned。 If he had a slight headache he groaned just as much as though his head were splitting。 F。 asked a few questions； and took his temperature。 The clinical thermometer is in itself considered big medicine； and often does much good。
〃Too much meat； my friend；〃 remarked F。 in English； and to his boy in Swahili； 〃bring the cup。〃
He put in this cup a triple dose of Epsom salts。 The African requires three times a white man's dose。 This； pathologically； was all that was required： but psychologically the job was just begun。 Your African can do wonderful things with his imagination。 If he thinks he is going to die； die he will； and very promptly； even though he is ailing of the most trivial complaint。 If he thinks he is going to get well； he is very apt to do so in face of extraordinary odds。 Therefore the white man desires not only to start his patient's internal economy with Epsom salts； but also to stir his faith。 To this end F。 added to that triple dose of medicine a spoonful of Chutney； one of Worcestershire sauce； a few grains of quinine； Sparklets water and a crystal or so of permanganate to turn the mixture a beautiful pink。 This assortment the patient drank with gratitude…and the tears running down his cheeks。
〃He will carry a load to…morrow；〃 F。 told the attentive M'ganga。
The next patient had fever。 This one got twenty grains of quinine in water。
〃This man carries no load to…morrow；〃 was the direction； 〃but he must not drop behind。〃
Two or three surgical cases followed。 Then a big Kavirondo rose to his feet。
〃Nini？〃 demanded F。
〃Homa…fever；〃 whined the man。
F。 clapped his hand on the back of the other's neck。
〃I think；〃 he remarked contemplatively in English； 〃that you're a liar； and want to get out of carrying your load。〃
The clinical thermometer showed no evidence of temperature。
〃I'm pretty near sure you're a liar；〃 observed F。 in the pleasantest conversational tone and still in English； 〃but you may be merely a poor diagnostician。 Perhaps your poor insides couldn't get away with that rotten meat I saw you lugging around。 We'll see。〃
So he mixed a pint of medicine。
〃There's Epsom salts for the real part of trouble；〃 observed F。； still talking to himself； 〃and here's a few things for the fake。〃
He then proceeded to concoct a mixture whose recoil was the exact measure of his imagination。 The imagination was only limited by the necessity of keeping the mixture harmless。 Every hot； biting； nauseous horror in camp went into that pint measure。
〃There；〃 concluded F。； 〃if you drink that and come back again to…morrow for treatment； I'll believe you ARE sick。〃
Without undue pride I would like to record that I was the first to think of putting in a peculiarly nauseous gun oil； and thereby acquired a reputation of making tremendous medicine。
So implicit is this faith in white man's medicine that at one of the Government posts we were approached by one of the secondary chiefs of the district。 He was a very nifty savage； dressed for calling； with his hair done in ropes like a French poodle's； his skin carefully oiled and reddened； his armlets and necklets polished； and with the ceremonial ball of black feathers on the end of his long spear。 His gait was the peculiar mincing teeter of savage conventional society。 According to custom； he approached unsmiling； spat carefully in his palm； and shook hands。 Then he squatted and waited。
〃What is it？〃 we asked after it became evident he really wanted something besides the pleasure of our company。
〃N'dowa…medicine；〃 said he。
〃Why do you not go the Government dispensary？〃 we demanded。
〃The doctor there is an Indian； I want REAL medicine； white man's medicine；〃 he explained。
Immensely flattered； of course； we wanted further to know what ailed him。
〃Nothing；〃 said he blandly； 〃nothing at all； but it seemed an excellent chance to get good medicine。〃
After the clinic was all attended to； we retired to our tents and the screeching…hot bath so grateful in the tropics。 When we emerged； in our mosquito boots and pajamas； the daylight was gone。 Scores of little blazes licked and leaped in the velvet blackness round about； casting the undergrowth and the lower branches of the trees into flat planes like the cardboard of a stage setting。 Cheerful； squatted figures sat in silhouette or in the relief of chance high light。 Long switches of meat roasted before the fires。 A hum of talk； bursts of laughter； the crooning of minor chants mingled with the crackling of thorns。 Before our tents stood the table set for supper。 Beyond it lay the pile of firewood； later to be burned on the altar of our safety against beasts。 The moonlight was casting milky shadows over the river and under the trees opposite。 In those shadows gleamed many fireflies。 Overhead were millions of stars； and a little breeze that wandered through upper branches。
But in Equatorial Africa the simple bands of velvet black； against the spangled brightnesses that make up the visual night world； must give way in interest to the other world of sound。 The air hums with an undertone of insects； the plain and hill and jungle are populous with voices furtive or bold。 In daytime one sees animals enough； in all conscience； but only at night does he sense the almost oppressive feeling of the teeming life about him。 The darkness is peopled。 Zebra bark； bucks blow or snort or make the weird noises of their respective species； hyenas howl； out of an immense simian silence a group of monkeys suddenly break into chatterings； ostriches utter their deep hollow boom； small things scurry and squeak； a certain weird bird of the curlew or plover sort wails like a lonesome soul。 Especially by the river； as here； are the boomings of the weirdest of weird bullfrogs； and the splashings and swishings of crocodile and hippopotamus。 One is impressed with the busyness of the world surrounding him； every bird or beast； the hunter and the hunted； is the centre of many important affairs。 The world swarms。
And then； some miles away a lion roars； the earth and air vibrating to the sheer power of the sound。 The world falls to a blank dead silence。 For a full minute every living creature of the jungle or of the veldt holds its breath。 Their lord has spoken。
After dinner we sat in our canvas chairs； smoking。 The guard fire in front of our tent had been lit。 On the other side of it stood one of our askaris leaning on his musket。 He and his three companions； turn about； keep the flames bright against the fiercer creatures。
After a time we grew sleepy。 I called Saa…sita and entrusted to him my watch。 On the crystal of this I had pasted a small piece of surgeon's plaster。 When the hour hand reached the surgeon's plaster； he must wake us up。 Saa…sita was a very conscientious and careful man。 One day I took some time hitching my pedometer properly to his belt： I could not wear it effectively myself because I was on horseback。 At the end of the ten…hour march it registered a mile and a fraction。 Saa…sita explained that he wished to take especial care of it； so he had wrapped it in a cloth and carried it all day in his hand！
We turned in。 As I reached over to extinguish the lantern I issued my last command for the day。
〃Watcha kalele； Saa…sita；〃 I told the askari； at once he lifted up his voice to repeat my words。 〃Watcha kalele！〃 Immediately from the Responsible all over camp the word came back…from gunbearers； from M'ganga； from tent boys…〃kalele！ kalele！ kalele！〃
Thus commanded； the boisterous fun； the croon of intimate talk； the gently rising and falling tide of melody fell to complete silence。 Only remained the crackling of the fire and the innumerable voic
