the land of footprints-第12章
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peered over the edge of a horizon。 Lesser mountain peaks of fantastic shapes…sheer Yosemite cliffs； single buttes； castles…had ventured singly from behind that same horizon barricade。 The course of a river was marked by a meandering line of green jungle。
It took us two days to get to that river。 Our intermediate camp was halfway down the pass。 We ousted a hundred indignant straw…coloured monkeys and twice as many baboons from the tiny flat above the water hole。 They bobbed away cursing over their shoulders at us。 Next day we debouched on the plains。 They were rolling； densely grown； covered with volcanic stones； swarming with game of various sorts。 The men marched well。 They were happy； for they had had a week of meat； and each carried a light lunch of sun…dried biltong or jerky。 Some mistaken individuals had attempted to bring along some 〃fresh〃 meat。 We found it advisable to pass to windward of these； but they themselves did not seem to mind。
It became very hot； for we were now descending to the lower elevations。 The marching through long grass and over volcanic stones was not easy。 Shortly we came out on stumbly hills； mostly rock； very dry； grown with cactus and discouraged desiccated thorn scrub。 Here the sun reflected powerfully and the bearers began to flag。
Then suddenly； without warning； we pitched over a little rise to the river。
No more marvellous contrast could have been devised。 From the blasted barren scrub country we plunged into the lush jungle。 It was not a very wide jungle； but it was sufficient。 The trees were large and variegated； reaching to a high and spacious upper story above the ground tangle。 From the massive limbs hung vines； festooned and looped like great serpents。 Through this upper corridor flitted birds of bright hue or striking variegation。 We did not know many of them by name； nor did we desire to； but were content with the impression of vivid flashing movement and colour。 Various monkeys swung； leaped and galloped slowly away before our advance； pausing to look back at us curiously； the ruffs of fur standing out all around their little black faces。 The lower half of the forest jungle； however； had no spaciousness at all； but a certain breathless intimacy。 Great leaved plants as tall as little trees； and trees as small as big plants； bound together by vines； made up the 〃deep impenetrable jungle〃 of our childhood imagining。 Here were rustlings； sudden scurryings； half…caught glimpses； once or twice a crash as some greater animal made off。 Here and there through the thicket wandered well beaten trails； wide； but low； so that to follow them one would have to bend double。 These were the paths of rhinoceroses。 The air smelt warm and moist and earthy； like the odour of a greenhouse。
We skirted this jungle until it gave way to let the plain down to the river。 Then； in an open grove of acacias； and fairly on the river's bank； we pitched our tents。
These acacia trees were very noble big chaps； with many branches and a thick shade。 In their season they are wonderfully blossomed with white； with yellow； sometimes even with vivid red flowers。 Beneath them was only a small matter of ferns to clear away。
Before us the sodded bank rounded off ten feet the river itself。 At this point far up in its youth it was a friendly river。 Its noble width ran over shallows of yellow sand or of small pebbles。 Save for unexpected deep holes one could wade across it anywhere。 Yet it was very wide； with still reaches of water； with islands of gigantic papyrus； with sand bars dividing the current； and with always the vista for a greater or lesser distance down through the jungle along its banks。 From our canvas chairs we could look through on one side to the arid country； and on the other to this tropical wonderland。
Yes； at this point in its youth it was indeed a friendly river in every sense of the word。 There are three reasons； ordinarily； why one cannot bathe in the African rivers。 In the first place； they are nearly all disagreeably muddy； in the second place； cold water in a tropical climate causes horrible congestions； in the third place they swarm with crocodiles and hippos。 But this river was as yet unpolluted by the alluvial soil of the lower countries； the sun on its shallows had warmed its waters almost to blood heat； and the beasts found no congenial haunts in these clear shoals。 Almost before our tents were up the men were splashing。 And always my mental image of that river's beautiful expanse must include round black heads floating like gourds where the water ran smoothest。
Our tents stood all in a row facing the stream； the great trees at their backs。 Down in the grove the men had pitched their little white shelters。 Happily they settled down to ease。 Settling down to ease； in the case of the African porter； consists in discarding as many clothes as possible。 While on the march he wears everything he owns； whether from pride or a desire to simplify transportation I am unable to say。 He is supplied by his employer with a blanket and jersey。 As supplementals he can generally produce a half dozen white man's ill…assorted garments： an old shooting coat； a ragged pair of khaki breeches； a kitchen tablecloth for a skirt； or something of the sort。 If he can raise an overcoat he is happy； especially if it happen to be a long； thick WINTER overcoat。 The possessor of such a garment will wear it conscientiously throughout the longest journey and during the hottest noons。 But when he relaxes in camp； he puts away all these prideful possessions and turns out in the savage simplicity of his red blanket。 Draped negligently； sometimes very negligently； in what may be termed semi…toga fashion； he stalks about or squats before his little fire in all the glory of a regained savagery。 The contrast of the red with his red bronze or black skin； the freedom and grace of his movements； the upright carriage of his fine figure； and the flickering savagery playing in his eyes are very effective。
Our men occupied their leisure variously and happily。 A great deal of time they spent before their tiny fires roasting meat and talking。 This talk was almost invariably of specific personal experiences。 They bathed frequently and with pleasure。 They slept。 Between times they fashioned ingenious affairs of ornament or use： bows and arrows； throwing clubs； snuff…boxes of the tips of antelope horns； bound prettily with bright wire； wooden swords beautifully carved in exact imitation of the white man's service weapon； and a hundred other such affairs。 At this particular time also they were much occupied in making sandals against the thorns。 These were flat soles of rawhide； the edges pounded to make them curl up a trifle over the foot； fastened by thongs； very ingenious； and very useful。 To their task they brought song。 The labour of Africa is done to song； weird minor chanting starting high in the falsetto to trickle unevenly down to the lower registers； or where the matter is one of serious effort； an antiphony of solo and chorus。 From all parts of the camp come these softly modulated chantings； low and sweet； occasionally breaking into full voice as the inner occasion swells； then almost immediately falling again to the murmuring undertone of more concentrated attention。
The red blanket was generally worn knotted from one shoulder or bound around the waist Malay fashion。 When it turned into a cowl； with a miserable and humpbacked expression； it became the Official Badge of Illness。 No matter what was the matter that was the proper thing to do…to throw the blanket over the head and to assume as miserable a demeanour as possible。 A sore toe demanded just as much concentrated woe as a case of pneumonia。 Sick call was cried after the day's work was finished。 Then M'ganga or one of the askaris lifted up his voice。
〃N'gonjwa！ n'gonjwa！〃 he shouted； and at the shout the red cowls gathered in front of the tent。 Three things were likely to be the matter： too much meat； fever； or pus infection from slight wounds。 To these in the rainy season would be added the various sorts of colds。 That meant either Epsom salts； quinine； or a little excursion with the lancet and permanganate。 The African traveller gets to be heap big medicin
