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monuments; the old historic scenes of four hundred years ago came
up before me; with memories almost overpowering of my first visit
thirty…five years ago。 And all then with me are now dead。
June 25。
At nine in the morning off with Holls to Rotterdam; and on
arriving took the tram through the city to the steamboat wharf;
going thence by steamer to Dort。 Arrived; just before the close
of service; at the great church where various sessions of the
synod were held。 The organ was very fine; the choir…stalls; where
those wretched theologians wrangled through so many sessions and
did so much harm to their own country and others; were the only
other fine things in the church; and they were much dilapidated。
I could not but reflect bitterly on the monstrous evils provoked
by these men who sat so long there spinning a monstrous theology
to be substituted for the teachings of Christ himself。
Thence back to The Hague and to Scheveningen; and talked over
conference matters with Count Munster。 Received telegrams from
Count von Bulow in answer to mine congratulating him on his
promotion; also one from Baron von Mumm; the German minister at
Luxemburg; who goes temporarily to Washington。
June 26。
At work all the morning on my Grotius address Lunched at the
〃House in the Wood;〃 and walked to town with sundry delegates。 In
the afternoon went to a 〃tea〃 at the house of Madame Boreel and
met a number of charming people; but the great attraction was the
house; which is that formerly occupied by John De Wittthat from
which he went to prison and to assassination。 Here also Motley
lived; and I was shown the room in which a large part of his
history was written; and where Queen Sophia used to discuss Dutch
events and personages with him。
The house is beautiful; spacious; and most charmingly decorated;
many of the ornaments and paintings having been placed there in
the time of De Witt。
June 27。
At all sorts of work during the morning; and then; on invitation
of President Low; went with the other members of the delegation
to Haarlem; where we saw the wonderful portraits by Frans Hals;
which impressed me more than ever; and heard the great organ。 It
has been rebuilt since I was there thirty…five years ago; but it
is still the same great clumsy machine; and very poorly
played;that is; with no spirit; and without any effort to
exhibit anything beyond the ordinary effects for which any little
church organ would do as well。
In the evening dined with Count Zanini; the Italian minister and
delegate; and discussed French matters with Baron d'Estournelles。
He represents the best type of French diplomatist; and is in
every way attractive。
Afterward to Mr。 van Karnebeek's reception; meeting various
people in a semi…satisfactory way。
June 29。
In the morning; in order to work off the beginnings of a
headache; I went to Rotterdam and walked until noon about the
streets and places; recalling my former visit; which came very
vividly before me as I gazed upon the statue of Erasmus; and
thought upon his life here。 No man in history has had more
persistent injustice done him。 If my life were long enough I
would gladly use my great collection of Erasmiana in illustrating
his services to the world。 To say nothing of other things; the
modern 〃Higher Criticism〃 has its roots in his work。
June 30。
Engaged on the final revision of my Grotius speech; and on
various documents。
At noon to the 〃House in the Wood〃 for lunch; and afterward took
a walk in the grounds with Beldiman; the Roumanian delegate; who
explained to me the trouble in Switzerland over the vote on the
Red Cross Conference。
It appears that whereas Switzerland initiated the Red Cross
movement; has ever since cherished it; and has been urged by
Italy and other powers to take still further practical measures
for it; the Dutch delegation recently interposed; secured for one
of their number the presidency of the special conference; and
thus threw out my Berlin colleague; Colonel Roth; who had been
previously asked to take the position and had accepted it; with
the result that the whole matter has been taken out of the hands
of Switzerland; where it justly belonged; and put under the care
of the Netherlands。 This has provoked much ill feeling in
Switzerland; and there is especial astonishment at the fact that
when Beldiman moved an amendment undoing this unjust arrangement
it was; by some misunderstanding lost; and that therefore there
has been perpetuated what seems much like an injustice against
Switzerland。 I promised to exert myself to have the matter
rectified so far as the American delegation was concerned; and
later was successful in doing so。
In the evening dined at Minister Newel's。 Sat between Minister
Okolicsanyi of the Austrian delegation; and Count Welsersheimb;
the chairman of that delegation; and had interesting talks with
them; with the Duke of Tetuan; and others。 It appears that the
Duke; who is a very charming; kindly man; has; like myself; a
passion both for cathedral architecture and for organ music; he
dwelt much upon Burgos; which he called the gem of Spanish
cathedrals。
Thence to the final reception at the house of M。 de Beaufort;
minister of foreign affairs; who showed me a contemporary
portrait of Grotius which displays the traits observable in the
copies which Burleigh painted for me twenty years ago at
Amsterdam and Leyden。 Talked with Sir Julian Pauncefote regarding
the Swiss matter; he had abstained from voting for the reason
that he had no instructions in the premises。
July 2。
In the morning Major Allen; military attache of our embassy at
Berlin; arrived; bringing the Grotius wreath。 Under Secretary
Hay's permission; I had given to one of the best Berlin
silversmiths virtually carte blanche; and the result is most
satisfactory。 The wreath is very large; being made up; on one
side; of a laurel branch with leaves of frosted silver and
berries of gold; and; on the other; of an oak branch with silver
leaves and gold acorns; both boughs being tied together at the
bottom by a large knot of ribbon in silver gilded; bearing the
arms of the Netherlands and the United States on enameled
shields; and an inscription as follows:
To the Memory of HUGO GROTIUS;
In Reverence and Gratitude;
From the United States of America;
On the Occasion of the International Peace Conference
of The Hague。
July 4th; 1899。
It is a superb piece of work; and its ebony case; with silver
clasps; and bearing a silver shield with suitable inscription; is
also perfect: the whole thing attracts most favorable attention。
CHAPTER XLIX
AS PRESIDENT OF THE AMERICAN DELEGATION AT THE PEACE CONFERENCE
OF THE HAGUE: V1899
July 4。
On this day the American delegation invited their colleagues to
celebrate our national anniversary at the tomb of Grotius; first
in the great church; and afterward in the town hall of Delft。
Speeches were made by the minister of foreign affairs of the
Netherlands De Beaufort; by their first delegate; Van Karnebeek;
by Mr。 Asser; one of their leading jurists; by the burgomaster of
Delft; and