voyage of the paper canoe-第8章
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n's account of his singular boat; one of the lightest yet constructed; and weighing only as much as a hunter's double…barrelled gun。
Mr。 Colvin says:
〃I also had constructed a canvas boat; of my own invention; for use in the interior of the wilderness on such of the mountain lakes as were inaccessible to boats; and which it would be necessary to map。 This boat was peculiar; no more frame being needed than could be readily cut in thirty minutes in the first thicket。 It was twelve feet long; with thin sheet brass prows; riveted on; and so fitted as to receive the keelson; prow pieces; and ribs (of boughs); when required; the canoe being made water…proof with pure rubber gum; dissolved in naphtha; rubbed into it。〃
Page 43 of Mr。 Colvin's report informs the reader how well this novel craft served the purpose for which it was built。
〃September 12 was devoted to levelling and topographical work at Ampersand Pond; a solitary lake locked in by mountains; and seldom visited。 There was no boat upon its surface; and in order to complete the hydrographical work we had now; of necessity; to try my portable canvas boat; which had hitherto done service as bed or tent。 Cutting green rods for ribs; we unrolled the boat and tied them in; lashing poles for gunwales at the sides; and in a short time our canvas canoe; buoyant as a cork; was floating on the water。 The guides; who had been unable to believe that the flimsy bag they carried could be used as a boat; were in ecstasies。 Rude but efficient paddles were hastily hewn from the nearest tree; and soon we were all gliding in our ten…pound boat over the waves of Ampersand; which glittered in the morning sunlight。 To the guides the boat was something astonishing; they could not refrain from laughter to find that they were really afloat in it; and pointed with surprise at the waves; which could be seen through the boat; rippling against its sides。 With the aid of the boat; with prismatic compass and sextant; I was able to secure an excellent map of the lake; and we almost succeeded in catching a deer; which was driven into the lake by a strange hound。 The dog lost the trail at the water; and desiring to put him on the track; we paddled to him。 He scrambled into the boat with an air of satisfaction; as if he had always travelled in just such a thing。 Soon we had regained the trail; and making the mountains echo to his voice; he again pursued the deer on into the trackless forest。
〃Continuing our work; we passed down into the outlet; where; in trying to effect a landing; we suddenly came face to face with a large panther; which had evidently been watching us。 He fled at our approach。
〃Our baggage was quickly packed; and the temporary frame of the canoe having been taken out and thrown away; we rolled up our boat and put it in the bottom of a knapsack。 。 。 。 The same day by noon we reached Cold Brook again; here navigable。 In an hour and a half we had re…framed the canvas; cut out two paddles from a dry cedar…tree; had dinner; loaded the boat; and were off; easily gliding down stream to the Saranac River。 Three men; the heaped baggage in the centre; and the solemn hound; who seemed to consider himself part of the company; sitting upright near the prow; forming in all a burden of about one third of a ton; was a severe test of the green boughs of which we had made the frame。
〃Ascending the Saranac River; we struck out into the broad Saranac Lake; some six miles in length; and though the winds and the waves buffeted us; the canvas sides of the boat responding elastically to each beat of the waves; we got safely along till near the Sister Islands; when; the wind blowing very fresh; the white…capped rollers began to pitch into the boat。 The exertions of the guides brought us under the lee shore; and at evening we disembarked at Martin's。〃
Geographies; guide…books; and historical works frequently give the length of Lake Champlain as one hundred and fifty; or at the least one hundred and forty miles。 These distances are not correct。 The lake proper begins at a point near Ticonderoga and ends not far from the boundary line of the United States and Canada。 Champlain is not less than one hundred nor more than one hundred and twelve miles long。 The Champlain Canal; which connects the river that flows from Whitehall into the lake with the Hudson River; is sixty…four miles long; ending at the Erie Canal at Junction Lock; near Troy。 From Junction Lock to Albany; along the Erie Canal; it is six miles; or seventy miles from Whitehall to Albany by canal route。 This distance has frequently been given as fifty…one miles。
From the United States boundary line south…ward it is a distance of seven miles to Isle la Motte; which island is five and a half miles long by one and three quarters wide; with a lighthouse upon its northwest point。 From the New York shore of Monti Bay; across the end of Isle la Motte to St。 Albans; Vermont; is a distance of thirteen and a half miles。 Two miles south of the island; on the west shore; is Point au Roche light; and two miles and three quarters south of it is Rocky Point; the terminus of Long Point。 Next comes Treadwell Bay; three miles across; then two miles further on is Cumberland Head and its light…house。 West from Cumberland; three miles across a large bay; is Plattsburgh; at the mouth of the Saranac River; a town of five thousand inhabitants。 In this vicinity Commodore Macdonough fought the British fleet in 1814。 These are historic waters; which have witnessed the scene of many a bloody struggle between French; English; and Indian adversaries。 Off Cumberland Head; and dividing the lake; is Grand Isle; twelve miles in length and from three to four in width。
The village of Port Kent is near the mouth of the Ausable River; which flows out of the northern Adirondack country。 A few miles from the lake is the natural wonder; the Ausable Chasm; which is nearly two miles in length。 The river has worn a channel in the Potsdam sandstone formation to a depth; in places; of two hundred feet。 Between high walls of rock the river is compressed in one place to ten feet in breadth; and dashes wildly over falls and rapids on its way to Lake Champlain。 It is said to rival the famous Swiss Gorge du Triant。
Schuyler's Island; upon the shore of which we passed Tuesday night; is nearly in the latitude of Burlington; Vermont。 The distance from Port Douglass on the west; to Burlington on the east side of Champlain; over an open expanse of water; is nine miles and three quarters。 We breakfasted by starlight; and passed Ligonier's Point early in the day。 One mile and a half east of it is the group of little islands called Four Brothers。 The lake grew narrower as we rowed southward; until; after passing Port Henry Iron Works; and the high promontory of Crown Point; upon which are the ruins of the French Fort Frederic; built in 1731; it has a width of only two miles。
At eight o'clock P。 M。 we dropped anchor under the banks of Ticonderoga; not far from the outlet of Lake George。 It is four miles by road between the two lakes。 The stream which connects them can be ascended from Champlain about two miles to the Iron Works; the remainder of the river being filled with rapids。 A railroad now (1867) connects lakes George and Champlain; over which an easy portage can be made。 The ruined walls of Fort Ticonderoga are near the railroad landing。 A little south of this the lake grows so narrow as to resemble a river。 At its southern end; twenty…four miles from Ticonderoga; is situated the town of Whitehall; where the Champlain and Hudson River Canal forms a junction with Lake Champlain。 This long river…like termination of Champlain gave to the Indians the fancy of calling it Tisinondrosa 〃the tail of the lake;〃 which in mouths inexperienced with the savage tongue became corrupted into Ticonderoga。
Wednesday broke upon us a glorious day。 Proceeding three miles to Patterson's Landing; into the 〃tail of the lake;〃 I left the Mayeta to explore on foot the shores of Lake George; promising Bodfish to join him at Whitehall when my work should be finished。
CHAPTER IV。 FROM LAKES GEORGE AND CHAMPLAIN TO THE HUDSON RIVER。
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