voyage of the paper canoe-第57章
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d vile reptiles infest the dense swamps。 It is a country well fitted for the hunter and lumberman； for the naturalist or canoeist； but the majority of people would； I am sure； rather hear of it poured forth in song from the sweet lips of Christina Nilsson； than to be themselves 〃way down upon the Suwanee Ribber。〃
On Monday； March 22d； Messrs。 Nason； Purviance； and Henderson joined me。 The party had obtained a northern…built shad…boat； which had been brought by rail from Savannah。 It was sloop…rigged； and was decked forward； so that the enthusiastic tourists possessed a weatherproof covering for their provisions and blankets。 With the strong current of the river； a pair of long oars； and a sail to be used when favorable winds blew； the party in the shad…boat could make easy and rapid progress towards the Gulf； while my lightly dancing craft needed scarcely a touch of the oar to send her forward。
On Tuesday； the 23d； we left Columbus； while a crowd of people assembled to see us off； many of them seeming to consider this simple and delightful way of travelling too dangerous to be attempted。 The smooth but swift current rolled on its course like a sea of molten glass； as the soft sunlight trembled through the foliage and shimmered over its broad surface。
Our boats glided safely over the rapids； which for a mile and a half impede the navigation of the river during the summer months； but which were now made safe by the great depth of water caused by the freshet。 The weather was charming； and our little party； fully alive to all the beautiful surroundings； woke many an echo with sounds meant to be sweet。 Of course the good old song was not forgotten。 Our best voice sang：
〃Way down up…on de Suwanee Rib…ber； Far； far away； Dere's whar my heart is turn…ing eb…ber； Dere's whar de old folks stay。 All up and down de whole creation Sadly I roam； Still longing for de old plantation； And for de old folks at home。
〃All round de little farm I wander'd When I was young； Den many happy days I squan…der'd … Many de songs I sung。 When I was playing wid my brud…der； Hap…py was I。 O！ take me to my kind old mud…der； Dere let me live and die！
〃One little hut among de bushes； … One dat I love； … Still sadly to my mem'ry rushes； No matter where I rove。 When will I see de bees a…hum…ming All round de comb？ When will I hear de ban…jo tum…ming Down in my good old home？〃
We all joined in the chorus at the end of each verse：
〃All de world am sad and dreary Eb…ry…whar I roam。 O； darkies； how my heart grows weary； Far from do old folks at home。〃
We soon entered forests primeval which were quiet； save for the sound of the axe of the log…thief； for timber…stealing is a profession which reaches its greatest perfection on the Florida state lands and United States naval reserves。 Uncle Sam's territory is being constantly plundered to supply the steam saw…mills of private individuals in Florida。 Several of the party told interesting stories of the way in which log…thieves managed to steal from the government legally。
〃There；〃 said one； 〃is X； who runs his mill on the largest tract of pine timber Uncle Sam has got。 He once bought a few acres' claim adjacent to a fine naval reserve。 He was not； of course； able to discover the boundary line which separated his little tract from the rich government reserve； so he kept a large force of men cutting down Uncle Sam's immense pines； and； hauling them to the Suwanee； floated them to his mill。 This thing went on for some time； till the government agent made his appearance and demanded a settlement。
〃The wholesale timber…thief now showed a fair face； and very frankly explained that he supposed he had been cutting logs from his own territory； but quite recently he had discovered that he had really been trespassing on the property of his much…loved country； and as he was truly a loyal citizen； he desired to make restitution； and was now ready to settle。
〃The government agent was astonished at the seeming candor of the man； who so worked upon his sympathy that he promised to be as easy upon him as the law allowed。 The agent settled upon a valuation of fifty cents an acre for all the territory that had been cut over。 'And now；' said he； 'how many acres of land have you 〃logged〃 since you put your lumbermen into the forest？'
〃Mr。 X declared himself unable to answer this question； but generously offered to permit the agent to put down any number of acres he thought would represent a fair thing between a kind government and one of its unfortunate citizens。 Intending to do his duty faithfully； the officer settled upon two thousand acres as having been trespassed upon； but to his astonishment the incomprehensible offender stoutly affirmed that he had logged fully five thousand acres； and at once settled the matter in full by paying twenty…five hundred dollars； taking a receipt for the same。
〃When this enterprising business…man visited Jacksonville； his friends rallied him upon confessing judgment to government for three thousand acres of timber more than had been claimed by the agent。 This true patriot winked as he replied：
〃'It is true I hold a receipt from the government for the timber on five thousand acres at the very low rate of fifty cents an acre。 As I have not yet cut logs from more than one…fifth of the tract； I intend to work off the timber on the other four thousand acres at my leisure； and no power can stop me now I have the government receipt to show it's paid for。'〃
The sloop and the canoe had left Columbus a little before noon； and at six P。 M。 we passed Charles' Ferry； where the old St。 Augustine and Tallahassee forest road crosses the river。 At this lonely place an old man； now dead； owned a subterranean spring； which he called 〃Mediterranean passage。〃 This spring is powerful enough to run a rickety； 〃up…and…down〃 saw…mill。 The great height of the water allowed me to paddle into the mill with my canoe。
At half past seven o'clock a deserted log cabin at Barrington's Ferry offered us shelter for the night。 The whole of the next day we rowed through the same immense forests； finding no more cultivated land than during our first day's voyage。 We landed at a log cabin in a small clearing to purchase eggs of a poor woman； whose husband had shot her brother a few days before。 As the wife's brother had visited the cabin with the intention of killing the husband； the woman seemed to think the murdered man had 〃got his desarts；〃 and； as a coroner's jury had returned a verdict of 〃justifiable homicide；〃 the affair was considered settled。
Below this cabin we came to Island No。 1； where rapids trouble boatmen in the summer months。 Now we glided gently but swiftly over the deep current。 The few inhabitants we met along the banks of the Suwanee seemed to carry with them an air of repose while awake。 To rouse them from mid…day slumbers we would call loudly as we passed a cabin in the woods； and after considerable delay a man would appear at the door； rubbing his eyes as though the genial sunlight was oppressive to his vision。 It was indeed a quiet； restful region； this great wilderness of the Suwanee。
We passed Mrs。 Goodman's farm and log buildings on the left bank； just below Island No。 8； before noon； and about this time Major Purviance shot at a large wild turkey （Meleagris gallopavo）； knocking it off a bank into the water。 The gobbler got back to land； and led us a fruitless chase into the thicket of saw…palmetto。 He knew his ground better than we； for； though wounded； he made good his escape。 We stopped a few moments at Troy； which； though dignified in name； consists only of a store and some half dozen buildings。
A few miles below this place； on the left bank of the river； is an uninhabited elevation called Rolins'
